Ok-after dealing with constantly running rich and fouling plugs-i fixed the problem. Once that was done, i decided to do mods. every sensor in the car is new-except the cam sensor and the crank sensor. I put in a 180deg. thermostat, 10% blower pulley, cold air intake, midlength headers from scp, 76mm c&l maf, complete dual 2.5 exhaust with hpipe and dynomax super turbos, new 02's. when i tried to start the car it fired-and after a lot of cranking started-it wont idle until its warmed up, and it hesitates when you drive it. i took off the ic tubes and blower top when i did the headers, and it has new plugs gapped to .052 i think-they are the motocraft double platinums. i also change the sc seal. I was wondering if the sc tubes may not be sealed correctly, or if cleaning the front of the engine did something to the cam sensor-i was right by it-the plug wires are ne 8.5mm motocrafts too-the firing order is correct-i know for a fact-checked three times-my vac. at idle is really close to 20-and after it warms up it idles ok-but still hesitates. the plugs are burning whitish gray, for the most part, one is a little darker. the car has recent head work. i know its running on all cylinders-the engine skips when you disconnect any of the plug wires-any suggestions-please help!
Bad running
- Thread starter Charkly
- Start date
rich
the maf was the wronmg one-it was out of a 4.6 and it was causing the car to load up-if it runs rich just on start up it could be the iat sensor-intake air temp. it acts as a kinda electric choke at startup if its cold, and if its bad it may cause the injectors to run rich cause it thinks its cold outside-just a thought-good luck-ps mine was horrible-i changed the plugs like 5 x. lol
the maf was the wronmg one-it was out of a 4.6 and it was causing the car to load up-if it runs rich just on start up it could be the iat sensor-intake air temp. it acts as a kinda electric choke at startup if its cold, and if its bad it may cause the injectors to run rich cause it thinks its cold outside-just a thought-good luck-ps mine was horrible-i changed the plugs like 5 x. lol
See also
i dont know if this matters-but my upshift light is kinda always on. I wouldnt say on, nor would i say off. You can def. see that its always slightly glowing-but at a glance it looks off-not on, not off.very very dim. barely noticable-but noticable just the same-does that make sense-lol thanks again-help me, if you live in ny, and out of the good graces of your hearts want to come visit my decrepid tbird in teh next few weeks-awesome. its at the paint shop now-drop me a pm.
i dont know if this matters-but my upshift light is kinda always on. I wouldnt say on, nor would i say off. You can def. see that its always slightly glowing-but at a glance it looks off-not on, not off.very very dim. barely noticable-but noticable just the same-does that make sense-lol thanks again-help me, if you live in ny, and out of the good graces of your hearts want to come visit my decrepid tbird in teh next few weeks-awesome. its at the paint shop now-drop me a pm.
If your upshift light is on, this points to the crank sensor. The fact that it is dim and the car will run makes me think that the sensor may not be positioned properly. Check to see if it is mounted so that the "hall effect vanes" on the sensor ring (on the back of the balancer) are fully intersecting the sensor. In other words, the vanes need to pass through the sensor so that the "magnetic" contacts on the sensor can pick up the signal. I noticed that just before I broke a balancer on my SC (I've broken 3), there would be a noticable loss of power. This seems to be caused by the vanes losing "contact" with the sensor when the balancer travels on the crankshaft.
Just my $.02
Just my $.02