Whos replaced their evaporator core? and/or o-tube

sizemoremk

Registered User
I guess the dash has to be removed...The guy put a little freon in it, and we detected some with the "sniffer" in the floor and vents in the car....

Can I get it pressure tested still in the car? just to be sure...

The core is all one peice including the tubes comming through the firewall into the engine compartment, correct?

Is there a removable orifice tube, or is it the tube with the built in one?
 
To replace the orrifice you have to change the complete lower liquid line, Ford shoves the orrifice in there and you cannot get at it to remove and replace without changing the line.
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but, isn't the heater core inside the vehicle with tubes passing through the firewall, and the evaporator core up front on the rad?
 
The evapaporator core and the heater core are sealed inside the evapotator case. The heater core has 2 coolant lines which attach from behind the engine with hose clamps, and the evap has 2 A/C lines, the liquid line and suction line, which attach with spring-lock connectors just in front of the pass side firewall.

To replace the evaporator, you have to remove the dash from the car, disconnect the hoses, remove the 3 washer+bolts holding the case to the firewall, and then remove the evap case. Once off the car, you have to pry it open. With all the work involved, I'd recommend replacing both the heater core and evep core at the same time; you probably won't want to do this job again.

To reinstall the case, you glue it back together with the new core(s) and I'd recommend drilling small holes around the edge of the case and using small screws to hold it together. Then you reinstall, hook things back up, reinstall the dash, finish flushing the A/C lines, and vaccuum/charge the A/C.

As far as the O-tube, its clamped way inside the liquid line; to replace it, you have to cut the steel line. Most people just buy a new liquid line as they're cheap.

Its a big job and will take about 2 days if you work carefully. I did this job last summer and replaced everything except for the high pressure/suction line/manifold which I cleaned out.
 
Thanks guy, I am gonna try and get it pressure tested this afternoon hopefully, and I will be replacing it soon if not.

scratch that. they said they coudln't check it....so I guess I have to remove it...

the ackits.com guy emailed me back and said that he needs to know if I have fac tory or dealer air...I was unaware that these 2 options existed in recent cars.... Does that actually mean the dealer pulle the dash and and added an A/C system, or does that mean something else totaly?
I assume it is factory???Is this the correct evaporator?

BTW which one is the o-tube line??? is it the one that goes from the compressor to the evaporator???

Thanks guys!
 
Shockwave said:
Rick, how far into the dash did you go? Did you really pull the entire dash assembly?

Jerry
The whole enchilada. One of the tricky parts was the power antenna. Had to pull the fender shield back, disconnect it and push the cables up into the pass compartment. Also had to remove the steering column, console, radio, A/C console, trays, and the shift knob. It was quite a job which is why I went ahead and replaced the heater core also.

As for sizemoremk's questions, I'm certain he has the factory installed A/C. And the Otube is in the liquid line which is the line running from the bottom of the condenser to the evaporator inlet. Its the thinner line about 3' long. The high pressure line runs from the back of the compressor to the condenser inlet which is on top. The line going from the black canister (the accumulator) to the compressor is called the suction line. Its where the compressor pulls the freon from the accumulator into the compressor. The accumulator itself plugs directly into the evap outlet. It should be replaced with a new unit and kept sealed as its a bag of dessicant beads which keeps the refrigerant dry. Just the slightest amount of humid air getting into the acc can cause it to get saturated with moisture.
The way they diagnosed my evap leak was with a freon sniffer inside the car. There's really no way for freon to get inside unless its from a leaking evaporator, so if it found it, thats the problem.
Just FYI, the thing which causes them to leak is wet air gets in and the moisture combines with the freon to form an acid which eats through the walls. Also usualy blows the compressor. My siezed compressor showed signs of pitting on the pistons from moisture.
Good luck with it. :)
 
In this pic, you can see the calcium and partial pitting on the old compressor cylinder.
 
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This pic shows the rusting of the reed valves inside the front case. Note the rubber piston seal ring pieces caught in the valves. These seal parts are what contribute to the "black death". If they work their way out and into the condenser, they can cause it to be clogged thus reducing its efficiency.
 
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looks like its full of moisture?

I thought mine was leaking when i used a dye:mad: , turned out there was oil on the floor and the water dripping from the AC drew old oil up from the ground and made it glow under UV light:rolleyes: .

I just pulled my core out and shoved an airline to it at 100PSI and put it under a sink full of water to test mine at home:eek:
 
The clutch on my compressor spins freely, but everything else is surely bad.

I read TbirdSCFan's comment in another thread about cleaning the compressor yourself....

Can I get some detail on how I would disassemble and clean the compressor? Any tricks or thigns to look out for?

My AC wouldn't hold a vaccume at all, and I beleive that the accumulator to evaporator coupler was not snapped into place correctly either... so I'm sure it was FULL of moisture...

I plan on replacing that line wid the o-tube in it, the evaporator, accumulator, and just cleaning the condenser and compressor if possible, and then keep it rechecked again to make sure everything looks good w/o contamination.

Any brand/parts chain suggestions in mind???
I'm looking at ackits.com and have heard good things, but want to shop around a little more for the evaporator core....
and maybe a heater core just in case....

Thanks guys!
 
Well actually, I pulled mine apart mainly out of curiosity. I think its possible to rebuild one, but "they" say you have to have hospital clean like facilities. I think thats a bit overblown. I think if you have a clean room, and are careful to keep dirt out, you'd be OK.
I don't know where you'd get the rings and/or the reed plates which are all you really need.
I bought a new Azone compressor and stayed away from the chain-store remans cuz of the bad track record they have. Knowing that I heard and experienced the SAME story with the alternator, I'd say it was true.

All of my A/C is new, other than the suction/manifold/high pressure line assembly. All parts from Azone other than the liquid line, pressure switch, and r134 adapters. In my case, that included compressor, new more efficient condenser (just to be safe), liquid line, evaporator, accumulator. Now... IF your compressor is good, then you can get by possibly with just the evaporator, new accumulator, new Orings, and a good flush. Your system may be fairly clean.
Its your call on how you want to proceed. With an old compressor, it may be on its last legs. It may have worn rings (they're just like piston rings but made of teflon/plastic) that aren't up to a long term job, or.. it may last forever. In that case, chances are your condenser and liquid line (hence the Otube) are just fine and can be flushed.

MO, is you don't have anything to loose by pulling the old compressor apart and inspecting the cylinders, pistons, etc. A good cleaning and polishing and oiling with 2oz of POE (ester oil) and it might hold up fine. If you find no evidence of the rings coming apart, then the condenser should be OK. The compressor has 2 case halves, and 2 internal case cylinder blocks. The shaft is held in place with a small bolt and a snap ring.
Of course, the safest thing is just to spend the $280 on a new compressor and not have to worry with it.
Hope this helps. :)
 
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