Check engine lite

racer88

Registered User
Just got my engine rebuilt and put back in the car, got the engine broke in and it runs great. But I have one problem, within just a few minutes after I start the engine the "Check Engine" lite with flash 3 times and the RPM's will jump to about 2000 and stay there for a few seconds and the go back down to about 900 rpms and the Check Engine lite with stop flashing.

Does anybody have a clue as to what is going on?

Thanks
Bennie
 
Hear is my guess at your problem.

May check the IAC.
It controls the idle.it on the side of the throttle body.

may not be your problem but if you put hose clamps and plastic ties
on every one of your vacum lines,your SC will run better.
 
i would 1 check codes then unhook battery or pull memory fuse a few minutes to reset everything and try again
 
I found out that the code was 111, which I then figured out when with the Idle Air Bypass Valve. That is why the RPM"s would just up to about 2000 and then come back down. I put on a new Bypass Valve and the adjusted the new valve. Now I don't get the code and the engines runs better then it did when I bought the car 7 years ago.

Thanks for all the info.
Bennie
 
Below is what I found at AllDatadiy.com. I know that the 111 code is a good code. I got the code each time that I started the engine so I knew something was wrong. After I made the adjustments, the Check Engine light doesnt flash any more, so maybe I got lucky when I found the info, and I got the new bypass valve from Pepboys.

PROCEDURE - STAR TESTER OR EQUIVALENT SCANNER REQUIRED

STEP 1
Activate engine running Self-Test.

STEP 2
After service code 11 or 111 has been displayed, unlatch and within 4 seconds latch the STI button.

STEP 3
A single pulse code indicates the entry mode, then observe the Self-Test Output (STO) of the STAR tester in step 4. If adjustment is required in step 4, ensure all other causes have been addressed and corrected before continuing.

STEP 4


A constant tone, solid light or "STO LO" readout means base idle rpm is within range. To exit test, unlatch STI button, then wait 4 seconds for reinitialization (after 10 minutes it will exit by itself).
Beeping tone, flashing light, or "STO LO" readout at (8hz) indicates Throttle Position Sensor is out of range due to over adjustment; adjustment may be required.
Beeping tone, flashing light, or "STO LO" readout at (4Hz) indicates base idle rpm is too fast, adjustment is required, go to STEP 6.
Beeping tone, flashing light, or "STO LO" readout at (1Hz) indicates base idle is too low, adjustment is required, go to STEP 5.

STEP 5
DO NOT clean the throttle body turn the air trim screw counterclockwise until conditions in Step 4(a) are satisfied. Process completed.
STEP 6
DO NOT clean the throttle body, turn the air trim screw clockwise until conditions in step 4(a) are satisfied.
 
Let me get this straight...

OK, you are saying that when you start your car it would automatically jump up to 2000 rpm's and the CE light would flash 3 times?

Are you trying to test for codes (KOER) self test, or does this happen whenever you start up the car and just want to go for a drive??

The CE light flashing 3 times is the EEC cylinder identification code (2 flashes=4 cylinder engine, 3 flashes=6 cylinder engine, 4 flashes=8 cylinder engine). The rise in RPM is due to the EEC directly and deliberately raising the idle to 2k rpm's to perform the test of the IAC and other sensors.

If this is happening every time you start your car, and you not intentionally running the code tests (either with the scan tool, or simple wire jumper), then it is quite possible that you either have a defective EEC, or somehow the wiring for the EEC is grounded just right so it initiates the KOER self test...

One way to tell, if you just turn your key to the "run" position and let it sit, not running, does the CE light blink then? And do you hear some action under the hood (relays clicking fan spinning up for a second or two, etc...)

Maybe I missed something in your message and my response is flawed, but it sounds to me like your car is running in EEC test mode all the time..

Phil
 
I wasn't running any kind of test. I would just get in the car start the engine, like I was going for a drive. It didn't do this before I rebuilt the engine.
 
I went out and just turned the key on, put it in the "run" position got all the bells and stuff. relays clicking, fan running, stuff like that. the CE light didn't do anything. then when I started the engine it ran for just a few seconds and then the idle went up to about 1500 rpm and stayed there for about 30 seconds and came back down.
 
Your tbird is running the SELF TEST, ALL THE TIME!!!

What you just described is the EEC running the KOEO, as soon as you turn the key!!. Check engine light coming on or not, it is running the self diagnostics. Same holds true for when you start the car, it is initiating the KOER (Key on engine running) test, that is why the CE light blinks 3 times and the idle goes up, then back down.

There is a slim chance I could be wrong, but I think if others would look at your post, they would agree.

Has anything been changed in your electronics area? Computer swap. or anything you can think of?

This definetley is a problem, you need to get it checked out.

Email me or PM me if I can help you out any more.

Phil
 
could my problem be that I haven't let the computer re-learn everything about the engine yet. after putting in the new engine I haven't been able to drive the car, because of the transmission TV pressures not being set right, I had the trans rebuilt too, I have to take the car to the transmission shop on tuesday so they can set the pressures.
 
I wish that were true,. but....

The only way the EEC runs the Self Tests is if it was told to via either scan tool, using the jumper method, code scanner, or if the wires somehow got grounded. My guess is that your EEC is fu#@! up. The only way to tell would be to try another in it to see if it does the same thing.

Phil
 
NOPE

I am afraid that it will not work. You need the EEC from the same year/model of SC that came from your car. It also has to match your transmission type (auto or stick).

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news!! EEC's are not really expensive, but you should really check the wiring first. Maybe get a code scanner and actually perform the code test, then it might somehow "clear" the EEC. I would not say your EEC is bad yet, I have never seen one have a failure mode like that.

Hope this helps,

Phil
 
are you sure somebody didnt leave their scan tool plugged in under the hood and forget about it sc computer is different

and i think auto and standard and diff years are also changed
computers
 
Ok so my car has started this flashing check engine light 3 times when I start up. After reading this thread I have come to the conclusion it is either my EEC or some wires.

Now my question is, which wires should I be looking for? ANd if it is the EEC, is that the computer box near the air filter? My radiator fan is rigged to a manual switch because the fan doesnt come on automatically, and my IAC is unplugged cause its messed up. BUt I've never had a flashing check engine light until now and my car has had this setup for 1.5 yrs now without any problems or lights except for the occasional check engine light coming on when I do long highway trips.

Any ideas?

Thanks
 
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