A/C Condensors

J

Joisey Jim

Guest
I'm about to make the conversion to 134a. I decided I might as well now that my condensor is leaking; so I'm going to pull the system apart ('93 SC with close to 200,000m), change the o-rings, accumulator & orifice pipe, etc.
However, I came across a new (still in box) condensor from an '89 SC for $38 on e-bay. A new one costs around $150 at the local discount auto parts store. My question is, however, that the part numbers are different from the '90-93 model years. Does anybody know why, are they actually different in size.
 
Joisey Jim said:
I'm about to make the conversion to 134a. I decided I might as well now that my condensor is leaking; so I'm going to pull the system apart ('93 SC with close to 200,000m), change the o-rings, accumulator & orifice pipe, etc.
However, I came across a new (still in box) condensor from an '89 SC for $38 on e-bay. A new one costs around $150 at the local discount auto parts store. My question is, however, that the part numbers are different from the '90-93 model years. Does anybody know why, are they actually different in size.
I'm fairly sure they're the same size. What may be different is the size and number of tubes. The aftermarket condenser should be more efficient than the OEM one as the OEM unit is for R12. This doesn't mean it will work badly with r134a, it means that the newer styles are generally better. Newer units, at least the one I bought, is a multi pass style with thinner tubes than the original. The original one is a dual pass tube-n-fin unit with thicker tubes and worked just fine with the r12.
Would you like me to measure my old condenser? My new one fit perfectly; even the foam rubber sealed up like it was supposed to.

Be sure to flush your system and unless your compressor blew, the liquid line (and Otube) should be OK. When you reverse flush it (Blow the cleaner from the evaporator fitting to the condenser) if it comes out clean and with little restriction, you shouldn't have a problem. The flush will get contaminates and the old mineral oil out.
 
I saw a post around here a couple of months ago, for replacement condensors that are shorter so they don't cover the intercooler like the stock one. Does anyone know what the name of the company or the part number is?

Might be something you want to look into.


Tim
 
I have seen them but dont know the part #I'll see if I can find it tomorrow. i retrofitted a condencer from a 70's Maverick ant it works fine. If Ur going to keep the car I suggest U change every thing including the compresser. Ive found that the compresser has about 4-6 mo left after the change to 134.
 
I just installed the short condensor in my '90 last weekend. It is the exact same length as the radiator and the short condensor has 3 rows. I just moved the upper and lower bracket for the left side to the middle. It didn't exactly fit the rubber brackets the way the OEM one did, but a few tie straps and it is in their solid. I believe the company was AirCon. They had me call a different company to actually order it from. Something like $130 or so. Received it in 4 business days.

If no one comes up with the link to the old info, then I'll post the info next Tuesday (3 day weekend for me).
 
TBird - thanks for the info. Don't worry about the dimensions I have to pull the old one out anyway and the new one does look full size, with larger tubes. However, I have a garage compressor and access to a vacuum pump, but what did you use to back-flush the system and get all the old type oil out.
 
You disconnect all the hoses, and in my case they were out of the car, so I just filled them up with brake parts cleaner, shook things around for a few minutes, drained and repeated until clean. In the case of those thing which don't come out (e.g. evaporator), you fill it with a couple ounces of solvent using a hose/funel, connect a drain hose, and go at it with compressed air. For me, my lungs and a hose provided the source of air. Just be sure you don't breath in through the hose ;)

You don't flush the compressor, just drain it by turning the shaft and tipping it over. If you're planning on doing a thorough job by flushing and installing new Orings, and new accumulator, you can use PAG oil with the r134a. You wait until the last minute and spread 7oz around evenly (2oz in the evap, 1oz in the accumulator, 2-3 in the compressor, 1 in the condenser). Leave the accumulator sealed until the very last. Hook it all up, turn the compressor by hand 10 times or so, and hook up the vaccuum pump and let it suck dry for 45min-1hr. Turn the pump off and wait for another 30min to see that it holds the pressure. You don't want any leaks. Then you can either charge it yourself, or have it done. You can wing it and shoot from the hip with the kits; bleed the hoses, charge into the vaccuum as much as it will take. Then start the car, turn the A/C on Max/Norm with the blower on full and charge with 32oz of r134a. Thats 80% of the original r12 capacity which is what they recommend. You'll need to rev the engine to about 1500 RPM to get all the refrigerant in. Don't put in any more than 32 oz without a set of gages. If the high pressure line is too high, you can overcharge it and have a problem.

If you do it right, you won't have any problems. If you forget a step, then its a risk you take that a leak could form. Leaks let air in and wet air+r134+PAG chews holes in things.

Be sure you use mineral oil or Nylog on the Orings, not the PAG.
The folks over at http://www.aircondition.com/wwwboard can answer any other questions you have. They're rather busy, but the archives have everything I discussed.
 
Thanks for all the useful tips & information; I have gauges and access to a vacuum pump. I was also offered the use of a bottle of Nitrogen to flush out the system, just wasn't sure if that would displace all the old mineral oil. I understand it's best to use dielectric grease on the o-ring connections (saw that on the "Two Guys Garage" show - the new version of "Shade Tree Mech"). Last year when the old R12 was leaking I couldn't find where, even with a "sniffer". So I changed all the o-rings to the green ones (there was some residue on the connections), replaced the Schraeder valves, vacuumed and re-charged with R12. I even left a small gauge hooked-up under the hood and it held pressure all summer. Now it's empty again!!!! So I might as well replace the condensor, accumulator, etc & change over to 134a. Atleast if I still have a small leak after that (say it's the evaporator) then I can still top it of (I'm out of R12 and of course it's hard to get).
Thanks again,
Jim.
 
A leaking evaporator and siezed compressor is what prompted me to retro fit mine to r134. I researched it quite a bit and in my case, the only part I could reuse was the highpressure/manifold/suction line after cleaning it out. The evaporator is a PITA to replace. You have to take the dash out of the car to get to the case. Then you have to tear the case open. If a sniffer detects refrigerant inside the car, thats the only place it can come from. :(

You might want to use the POE (ester oil) instead of PAG if you have a leak. If moist air gets in (all air has some humidity), it can can be retained by the PAG, and react with the r134 and turn into an acid which is not good for any aluminum parts or the compressor. POE doesn't retain as much moiture and it still compatible with r134a. BTW, leaks are typically what kill A/Cs.

One of the people at the A/C board can e-mail you the procedure to correctly charge the A/C since you have the hoses and a vaccuum pump.
 
Back
Top