Replacing SC Snout seal - Steel washer stuck

9

91BLOWNSC

Registered User
For anyone who has replaced there snout seal, i took my pulley off today to change mine, and the damn metal washer or whatever is in front of it WILL NOT come out. We cannot get a screwdriver in there to pop it out. We used a small metal hook like the dentists have, and it will not come out either. I am out of ideas. How did everyone else get theres out? Also, when I took my pulley off, there was a bunch of sludge just sitting there. Like greyish sludge. I am guessing that is from the oil and bearings?
 
!

Hello.

I just did mine 3 days ago. the steel "washer" is actually part of the old seal, probably the Chicago Rawhide #7968 seal. Feel free to tear it up. I used an Awl on mine with leverage and it came out easy. But I am sure you can use some needle nose pliers etc. I replaced it with the #7966 seal without the metal front "washer". wipe out the old gak with a rag and some paint thinner or brake cleaner (some solvent) to clean things up. Lube it up with heavy grease (on the inside and on the edge and center) and lightly tap it in with a socket and rubber hammer. Doesn't leak anymore Woot!

Maybe spray it with PB blaster or wd40 to loosen it to remove it. Good luck!
 
hmm..

Well actually I have part # 7968 is what I was told. That also does not have the metal "washer". Does that mean after the new install, you don't have to put one back in? Problem is, I can't tear it up, becuase I can't even get inside to get the old seal out. I don't wanna scratch the casing in the process, or the shaft itself.
 
Ohh?

Ok well. Maybe my job was a little bit of a Hack. I couldn't see any way of saving the wafer thin aluminum washer thing so I dug into it and just tore it out along with the seal it was attached to. Maybe someone with more experience/knowledge will respond. Heck maybe my job will leak in a few months or so because I destroyed the "washer" LOL. but, I thought it ended up great and I just did it because when I bought the new 7966 washer it didn't come with anything washer like, I just greased it up real well in hopes that the supercharger fluid would not bleed out. The new seal snapped in not too snug and not too loose at all, atleast for me. Oh and my old seal rubber was Stiff as heck and I could see the seal had worn after all these years. anyways, sorry if my advice is bad. It's just what I did to mine.

ps. look for a guy on here named Kardoctor. He generously shared all his info about the seal job on this board with us and seems like a really nice guy. L8a.
 
metal washer

I made the same mistake-the so called metal washer isnt a seperate piece-that is the seal-the seal is the metal washer-they are one and the same-the new one may not look like it-but dont mistake that pice of aluminum for a seperated piece-its not-thats the seal-lol. sorry if i overemphasized-hope that helps-i just got pissed and jammed a screw through it-being careful no to hit the bearing, figuring id get a new washer-but was relieved to find out hte washer is the seal-hope this helps, mike.
 
Just tap a small hole on each side in the middle with an awl, then put a sheet metal screws in the holes and pull it out. You've got the retainer spring out already, right? The new CR#7968 seal is coated with brown colored viton which is more heat resistant, the aluminum is still there. The bearing is about 1" or so back, just don't damage the sides of the housing. Use SC fluid on the edge of the seal when you install it.
Good luck
 
beaings inside snout

I have 1990 T-Bird SC and I pulled out the pulley off the supercharger snout and took out washer and seal thing. I can see that the bearings melted/locked up badly. I wanted to know if I can replace those bearings inside the snout on front and rear bearings? I was told to get used supercharger and replace whole thing? I am confused....
 
You can get another supercharger if you want or you can rebuild yours. Either way, you have to take it out of the car b/c you can't change the bearings with it in the car. It may be faster to just swap another 1 in and then repair the old 1.
 
I now recomend the CR 7966 seal. It is easier to install. TCM makes a similar seal #20/47/7TC that works just as well.
The origional seal does look like a washer. I poke 2 holes with a large nail then put in 2 #12x1/2" sheet metal screws in and use a nail puller to pop the seal out. After cleaning the area I paint the bearing with fresh Blower oil and install the new seal.
 
Do you guys who manage to get the washer out without completely damaging it re-use it again? To me it doesnt seem like that retainer clip is going to do a whole lot of good without something solid - the washer - to hold in place. The seal that i have seams rather flexible, as if it would bend around the clip if pressure were to be applied.
 
You are to reuse the retainer spring but not the seal unless you don't mind more trouble down the road. I don't know what seal you got but it should not be flexable, it should be solid like the factory one. The retainer spring is there to make sure that the seal can not be pushed out from the pressure and heat that builds up inside the snout. Good luck
 
Fling the old seal into the bushes, the new seal will go nowere the 7966 seal is made of metal with a rubber coating on it.
 
hmm..

So is the 7968 part number. I don't know what the difference is. But i have the 7968 which was preferred over the 7966.
 
If you look at the center where it goes around the shaft, you'll notice that the #7968 has a double lip or 2 seals, 1 facing in and 1 facing out. The others have only 1 lip but are a lot less expensive. Good luck
 
As many others have said, the old metal seal is junk, every single piece of it!!!!

When new one is installed, you will see the back of the new seal(mine is brown), and then you install the retainer. And so on!!!!!

I have found out that any Bearing/Seal shop can cross the Chicago Rawhide #7968.

If I would have known 3yrs ago how easy this was, I bet I would have saved a couple hundred in cleaning!!!!! Live & Learn!!!
 
Snout seal

just picked up my #7968 Viton seal.....pulled off the pully and there is that dam* disk! needless to say that since reading the previous posts I'm not going to worry anymore about where to get one to replace the I just tore up! Thanks.

By the way my seal CR#7968 Viton double lip was $18.00 US incl $4 and change for UPS shipping thru a local Electric motor supply/service shop. Sounds like the auto parts houses are making a killing of the things. The guys at the parts place down the street know how and where to get weird things in CT and RI.
Now
 
Yes they are making a killing. $32.00 shipped from CR for me from NAPA. One parts place wanted $42.00.

My 3 arm puller won't fit with the coolant tube in the way so I'll change my thermostat at the same time I do this.
 
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