no sparks...

L

lessonintorque

Registered User
Ok, I just replaced my fan motor yesterday, all was good untill this morning. Car wouldnt start at all except twice it tried for a few seconds. On the second attempt at running I got a very loud backfire. I tried a code reader, I only got a code 67 for the a/c which doesnt presently work. Then I pulled a spark plug wire off the coil and gave it a shot to see if there was a spark, but to no avail, nothing. Gonna check all the wire connections tommorow, But I was wondering if there was an "easy" way of checking either a the dis or b the coil pack? I read a previous thread on the dis being suceptable to heat, my car runs at about 210 with the fan on low, could that be to hot? Also whats mor likely the dis or the coil pack to die first? Thanks for your input in advance, its MUCH apprieciated
 
i would guess crank sensor if no spark they seem fragile on these cars if you have spark see if plugs are wet or check wires
 
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Ah, just a quick note.

The cam sensor and DIS control the coilpack to give spark.

Crank sensor's for fuel timing.
 
Check the bolt in the center on the crank pulley. There are 5 bolts in there, you will be looking for the big one in the center. If the head of the bolt is not there, then the dampner is broken and will have to be replaced. The dampner has a fin on it that passes through the crank sensor and gives the signal to the EEC to fire the plugs. So if you loose the crank sensor it will not start. The cam sensor is there to figure out where the engine is so that it will start on the first crank. A bad cam sensor will still allow the engine to run, but a bad crank sensor will not. Broken harmonic dampners are a common problem on these cars.

Jeff
 
new balancer

sorry have been away from computer for a few days. The balancer is brand new may be the crank angle sensor will check that out. Could it be the dis? if so how much for the crank angle sensor or the dis? Thanks for your time, Its the reason that This forum has been the most valuable resource for me. Without it I would not get anywhere near as much done, thanks!!!!
 
The coil pack is not as likely to fail, after all it’s just a couple pieces of wire wrapped around a iron core. There are 4 wires that run to the coil pack. One is ignition +12V and the other 3 are for each coil. Use an ohm meter and probe between the power wire and each coil the reading should be low but not 0 ohms. Then test between each pair on the towers the resistance should be about 1K ohm. Basically make sure they all read the same. If you do have a coil failure it’s going to be one coil and not all 3.

Jeff

PS Does your upshift light stay on while cranking? If so then there is a problem with the crank sensor.
 
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now no idle!!!...

Ok so I got pissed off and smacked my dis a few times and it started with a few pumps of the gas, But it smoked like an SOB and wont idle, as soon as I let off of the gas it cuts out!? Im confused.:confused: So am I going insane? or is there a reason for all this? Im getting discourged, So much money and time in the last few months and now this:( I havent gotten more than a weeks worth of drive time in without a problem. If you guys have any ideas throw them at me I appreciate your continuing tech support, Thanks again Mike
 
What color smoke? Blue, White, Black?

Owning a high mileage SC and not having another form of transportation is not a good idea.

Jeff

Check the connections at the DIS module, it might also be bad.
 
white smoke

the smoke is white in color and it smelled like excess fuel. The engine only has 450 miles on it and I expected some bugs after swapping the engne for the new one but this is crazy, this is my sixth engine swap so im used to so frustration and bugs to work out with it, but im a rotary mechanic so im not used to all this insanity.
 
black smoke

My brother swears it was black smoke not white, i was in the car so i didnt realy see it. I used the intake manifolds off the old engine after i did a port and polish and did full gasket matching, its never been run hard its not even broken in yet. The engine I used is a remanufactured one with all new moving parts (pistons,rings,valves,etc...) and brand new HG's. I sure hope not. I cant even run it long enough for a compression test ( at least on a rotary it has to be running maybe a piston engine doesnt) Im against taking it to a mechanic when ive been diy for so long and im not even aware of a reputable SC mechanic in orlando.
 
You only need to crank the engine to do a compression test. Have the throttle wide open, plug the gauge in and crank it over about 5 revolutions. Remove all plugs.

With black smoke, that would be excess fuel and is probably why it’s not running right. Have you had the engine running at all since the rebuild? If not then check the firing order. Some on the older manuals are wrong.

Jeff


http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=22297

has firing order in this thread.
 
yep has been running

has run since swap, firing order was problem on initial start up but i got that down pat, also about the time this problem started it wouldnt start And it backfired very loudly, through the headers and exaust it sounded like a shotgun! So maybe excess fuel is the problem but that still doesnt explain why I wasnt getting spark, now Im getting spark and no idle:confused: :( :eek:
 
Like I said B4 your DIS might be bad. If you smacked it and it came to life then I would have to say it’s bad. If it isn’t firing on all 3 coils then the engine will only be running on 4 cylinders. What brand plugs are you running?

Jeff
 
bosh platnum

brand new bosh platnums, now Im also stumped cause usually an electrical component that dies does just that just dies. And on the last start my bro had opened the throttle from underhood and it ran for about 15 seconds at 3000rpm and died. im pretty sure that it was running on all cylinders.
 
I have seen many ignition module failures where the engine will run and then die after a few minutes or a few hours, so it could still be the module. Bosch platinum’s are a no no on SC’s because of the way the ignition system fires. One plug fires from electrode to tip and the other fires the opposite way (tip to electrode). They will only last a few thousand miles.

Jeff
 
ohhhhh

So I shouldnt use platnum huh? thats strange well when they go What do you recomend? Ive always worked on rotaries, So we always use ngk, im at a loss for expierience when it comes to piston engines. thanks for the heads up. So you think I should replace my dis? Where should I get it? I checked autozone and unless the 18yr old dork couldnt read the computer at the counter (very possible) they dont carry one. Ill try it.
 
Do a search for plugs, you will want to use Double platinum’s, Motorcraft brand or equivalent. NGK probably makes one. Try Advance auto parts their on the web. Autozone should carry one ask for the ignition module for the SC, if you say DIS they won’t know what you are talking about. Better yet look it up online, at www.autozone.com . It’s around $100.

Jeff
 
Thanks jeff

Im gonna go and try that right now, I would change my plugs out now but...well..you know, im not feeling THAT industrious right now. Ill post back in an hour or so I should be done then. Thanks for all your help, you rock! Ill keep you posted.:D
 
Also remember when checking for spark you must have the other plug and wire installed or grounded or the plug won’t fire or it might be very weak.

Jeff
 
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