Motormount Bolt

Drain the coolant, remove the knock sensor if from the bottom.

If from the front, remove the accessory drive bracket, and reach.

From the front it looks like this:
passMMinst.jpg
 
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Mike8675309, I have the front accessory bracket off .And I have all the
bolt out off the passenger motor mount.But I am uable to get to the
rear bolt in the back of the passenger side motor mount.

I tryed to remove the starter ,but a 12mm socket is to small,so I tryed a
13mm socket and wrench they were to big.So I tryed every 1/2 socket
and wrench i have got they were to small I tryed to tap the half in on.
no go.It must be 12.5mm bolt,in witch I have never seen before,
.I have some smaller socket that are 5.5mm 6.5mm 7.5mm.there must
be a 12.5 socket,but i have never heard of one before.

I looked at the knock sensor but could not see how it could be remove
my hand is to big to get to it.

I remove the exhaust but still cant get my hands to any thing.

I can get a socket on the passenger side motor mount bolt on the rear
of the mount but cannot get my hand in there to get a grip on the ratchet.

I cant jack the motor any higher to make room.

So what would be left to do.Remove the k-member to get to one bolt?
 
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Hmmm, I'm not sure why you are struggling. I got back there with a flex head ratchet and leaned way over the front of the radiator bracket, standing on a toolbox. I just squeezed between the fender and the bracket. If I remember right I used that to break the bolt loose, then used a ratcheting box-end wrench to turn it out.

It did require some finger dexterity, but I didn't have to take nothing else off.

I also know that to get at it from the back only requires the knock sensor removed.

Think outside the box. :confused:

Wait, are you talking through bolt on the bottom? If so, that's what I'm talking about.

If you mean the very back bolt on the bracket, that goes into the block? That I got with either a regular socket with a 3" extension, or a 3" extension with a deepwell socket and my flex head ratchet. I can't recall which, but I was able to get that one so I could just turn it by the fender. Again, finger dexterity was necessary to keep the wrench on the bolt.

Here are the only tools I used to do my motor mounts.
toolsinuse.jpg
 
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The only way I see to tie it down would be to weld the front of the mount .
and I don't want to do that.

This is my third attempt.

I am getting a tube K-MEMBER made because of i have problems
getting to things to work on. but I would like to fix it because
it is a long drive to southern indiana to leave the SC for 5 to 6
weeks to get the k-member,a-arms,ect.
made.And installed.
 
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the bolt

I just did mine two weeks ago.
I got to that bolt from the bottom with a 13 mm socket and u-joint and extenstion. I did not remove the knock sensor.

The bolt should be a 13 mm, unless someone else has replaced it. Hopefully you're not looking at a rounded off 13...

You only need to take off the knock sensor (1 1/8 socket) if you want to move the mount in/out through the bottom.

Spray it down with something to loosen it.

good luck

MB
 
Re: the bolt

MartianBob said:
I just did mine two weeks ago.
I got to that bolt from the bottom with a 13 mm socket and u-joint and extenstion. I did not remove the knock sensor.
Ditto. In my case, neither the starter or the K sensor were in the way at all. I tend to use wimpy 3/8" tools, but a 1/2" driver and a cheater bar.. Just be sure to fully seat the 6-sided socket before putting any real torque to it. Oh, and I did pull the wheel off to get room for the extension and pivot.
You only need to take off the knock sensor (1 1/8 socket) if you want to move the mount in/out through the bottom.
A big time saver is to twist the loose mount around enough to remove the 2 10mm bolts on the bottom bracket and take it out in 2 pieces.. and do the opposite to reinstall. Also, take the mount halves out from between the compressor (unbolt it and tie it back if it helps) and the frame. You have to remove the intake tube and tie the coolant bottle out of the way also. This is how I did that side in under 2 hours. ;)
 
MartianBob . I have tryed all that you have listed.After I get the socket and ratchet on
I have not got enough room to get my hand on the ratchet to brake the bolt loose.Thanks

TbirdSCFan,I remove the exhaust ,but my hand is to big to get around the starter
to get the bolt out.I have been useing a 3/8,I have tryed 1/4.and the 1/2 drive
wrench I have, is to big as my hands are to get ahold of the rachet after I
get the socket on the bolt.I could get it off if I could find a wrench that fit the
starter bolts.But the starter bolt were made in mars. SAE or metric do not fit.

I have over 120 hours in this job.That includes fabing motor mount torque arms stops,
and polishing parts.

I realy need to get the passenger mount on soon.So measurements can be taken
for other parts to be fab up.

If I ever get it out.The mount I am putting in is a stock mount that I machined
down so it should fall in and out .If I would need to ever change it again.

When I get my new parts in it should be a breese to change mounts,plugs,
wires.I think I will be able to to do the plugs,wires,mounts in less than one hour.
But it has been a bitch to get to that point.BUT with my motor mounts &
new k-member and a-arms & aluminum coil over .Will give me the needed room.

Even when I get this old mount out .It will still be 4 to five weeks before I am finished.
With the motor mount job.

THANKS RANDY
 
I will try to get under mine tonight and see exactly how i got mine out.
I think it was with a couple of long extensions and a swivel through an opening in the fender. It's not an easy job if you have big hands.

The mounts almost fall out if you remove them from the front with the accesssory brackets off.


Aaron
 
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Aaron I have thousans of dollars in tools.The problem is that .I am 6-3
and 296lb with extra large hands for my size.I have no problems palming
a basket ball.

If I was the size of AsScLoWn the job would be finished.:D

Thank Randy
 
It's coming back to me.

See that 3/8 wrench and piece of steel conduit in my tools picture.

Using a 3" craftsman extension (I twisted some chinese extension off), a 13mm deep well 6 sided socket, that beefy 3/8 wrench, and that pipe. I fished the socket, extension, and wrench onto the bolt on the left side of the mount next to the fender. I then slipped the conduit over the end of the wrench and used that for leverage to break the bolt loose. Without that, the socket wrench handle didn't extend far enough past the mount for me to get a grip. And my 1/2 drive stuff was all 12 point sockets and I didn't have any short extensions.
 
Mike8675309 I am going to the shop. And get a peice of chromemoly tubing.
From when I did chassis work and give that a try.I havent tried the cheater pipe way yet.

thanks, Randy

The pictures your posting are very nice.What type camera do you have.
 
Mike8675309 your idea of useing conduit worked.
finally got it broke loose.Got the mount out .And the solid rubber
isolator,& my new machined motor mount in.Just need to tighten
the bolts up.

Please do not leave this board I would be lost without your input.

THANKS Randy

I would put you on my SC guru list ,but your already on it.:D
 
Yup.. A cheater bar is a must have tool, IMO. In addition to a breaker bar as it allows a ratchet to turn and fit into tight spaces.
Here's my setup for the rear bolt on both pass and driver sides.

Notes:
The 1/2" drive ratchet can take quite a bit of torque.
The 3/8" extensions are weak points and used only because thats what I had.
The swivel is weak also. These tend to snap if overloaded.
The socket itself is fairly strong and can take 100 lbs OK. More than enough for the mount bolts with the exception of the long frame bolt.
The swivel should be as close as possible to the bolt that is being turned. I've found that that gives me the best bite on the bolt.
Also, I also make sure the socket is fully seated as rounded bolt heads give me too much anxiety.

Your life will be easier now that you have the pipe. BTW, I found mine on the roadside somewhere and said "this might come in handy".. turned out to be an understatement. ;)
 
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My Dad got me into the cheater bars of conduit when pulling the engine out of my ranger. We used a 8 foot piece of conduit with a 1/2 drive breaker bar and twisted the bolt in half rather than the nut turning on the exhaust manifold. Bastards.

The key, as I'm sure you know, is a good solid ratchet with a stout handle. A cheap ratchet will break well before the bolt will come loose. Or better, just a short handle without the ratchet. Because, over time, even a good ratchet will wear out from such abuse. I've got a 18" 1/2 drive breaker bar that works just perfect for things it can fit into. Like loosening the tensioner so I can change belts. Can hold it with one hand, while the other hand aligns the belts.

Also for others following along, don't do something like this, and then start whacking the bar with a hammer. If you want to break a tool, or strip the head off a bolt, that's how you do it. It's constant, even pressure that's needed to break a bolt loose. Sometimes tapping the head of the fastener with a brass hammer can help to shock the threads a bit. But that's about it.

I took pictures with a el-cheapo Intel digital camera I picked up from Office Depot for $35 on their clearance pile one day. It worked so well for over a year, but now it's acting up. The cheap lens must be damaged as all pictures I take now are out of focus.

I've got to get me some swivels yet. I've seen the cheap ones and passed them by. I need to get some I can really torque on.
 
I was tighting the lugs on a TEREX truck useing a pipe about 6ft on
a 1in drive ratchet S&K .the ratchet broke,I went sideways and broke my leg
about 10 to 15 years ago.
 
Ouch... That bites.

Hey, I remembered wrong, as I thought I had a picture somewhere and found it here at home. I didn't need the pipe on the ratchet as my flex head ratchet was long enough. Here is a picture of the tools I used on the passenger side to tighten all the bolts.

I took a bunch of pictures when doing this job because I was going to do a write up for Chargin' Thunder at some point. Still may in it's new incarnation.

PassMMandtools.jpg
 
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