DrFishbone
SCCoA Member
okay, here's what i've got:
new egr pressure/position sensor
new egr control solenoid (donated by a great guy btw! )
nice clean metal egr tube
nice clean egr sensor rubber tube
clean vacuum lines to the egr control solenoid
cleaned egr valve...slightly hard to push open (i dunno if it's good still or not, but i believe it is)
i THINK a good seal between the intake and egr valve
AND a check engine light that throws an egr code (33)
AND a hair of a loss of power while coasting (been getting better with the new parts)...sometimes engine kinda stalls and idles sporatically, never dies though.
NOW before all this happened, nothing appeared to be wrong, and it ran better. the egr pressure sensor tube (black rubber) was UNPLUGGED for almost a year (and yes....black dirt was all over my engine from exhaust leakin in!)
problems began after i swapped intake and supercharger form my parts car and noticed the egr valve was dirty....so i sprayed a little engine degreaser in the egr valve hole that bolts to the sc intake. after that, i've done all the cleaning and replacing, and it's gotten better, but not totatlly fixed. gas mileage is down about 1 or 2 miles per gallon than before.
i know there's guys out there that know their stuff about egr...i just hope i'm not one of them!!!! i do understand how it works, what it's for, and know all the parts involved. at IDLE the egr solenoid is getting a load of vacuum, and about 12 volts through the little wires that hook up to it. from there to the egr valve, there is a very slight little suckle. revving the engine didn't seem to affect the vacuum from the solenoid to the egr valve, nor did it affect the voltage to the egr solenoid.
what i'm getting from this, is that the egr valve is not opening, either because the valve is stuck, or the wiring/solenoid is screwed somehow. doesn't make much sense past that!
questions: what is the normal voltage to the egr solenoid at idle, and how much vacuum gets to the egr valve at idle? is there any way i can get an egr opening condition to occur while i'm under the hood, if everything is "working correctly" now?
okay...done...now i'll have nightmares about little black sensors and soot-covered egr parts AND a little beeping code reader trying to kill me, since they haven't yet! thanks in advance for help!
(maybe after this is over, i'll be in the "my car's check engine light doesn't come on" club. that'd be nice....
derrktor feeshbone!!
new egr pressure/position sensor
new egr control solenoid (donated by a great guy btw! )
nice clean metal egr tube
nice clean egr sensor rubber tube
clean vacuum lines to the egr control solenoid
cleaned egr valve...slightly hard to push open (i dunno if it's good still or not, but i believe it is)
i THINK a good seal between the intake and egr valve
AND a check engine light that throws an egr code (33)
AND a hair of a loss of power while coasting (been getting better with the new parts)...sometimes engine kinda stalls and idles sporatically, never dies though.
NOW before all this happened, nothing appeared to be wrong, and it ran better. the egr pressure sensor tube (black rubber) was UNPLUGGED for almost a year (and yes....black dirt was all over my engine from exhaust leakin in!)
problems began after i swapped intake and supercharger form my parts car and noticed the egr valve was dirty....so i sprayed a little engine degreaser in the egr valve hole that bolts to the sc intake. after that, i've done all the cleaning and replacing, and it's gotten better, but not totatlly fixed. gas mileage is down about 1 or 2 miles per gallon than before.
i know there's guys out there that know their stuff about egr...i just hope i'm not one of them!!!! i do understand how it works, what it's for, and know all the parts involved. at IDLE the egr solenoid is getting a load of vacuum, and about 12 volts through the little wires that hook up to it. from there to the egr valve, there is a very slight little suckle. revving the engine didn't seem to affect the vacuum from the solenoid to the egr valve, nor did it affect the voltage to the egr solenoid.
what i'm getting from this, is that the egr valve is not opening, either because the valve is stuck, or the wiring/solenoid is screwed somehow. doesn't make much sense past that!
questions: what is the normal voltage to the egr solenoid at idle, and how much vacuum gets to the egr valve at idle? is there any way i can get an egr opening condition to occur while i'm under the hood, if everything is "working correctly" now?
okay...done...now i'll have nightmares about little black sensors and soot-covered egr parts AND a little beeping code reader trying to kill me, since they haven't yet! thanks in advance for help!
(maybe after this is over, i'll be in the "my car's check engine light doesn't come on" club. that'd be nice....
derrktor feeshbone!!