Shocks
Ruswin,
It's probably the rear shocks are weak. Have they been changed? Have a friend watch for wheel hop when you burn out. I recently ditched the "active ride" (Read="expensive and unnecessary") shocks with regular old Monroes. Just don't tell the counterman it is an SC. They will tell you the shocks won't fit. They will physically fit in there, but you will lose the gimmicky gizmos that adjust the damping. I left the actuators in their stock locations, connected, with no problems.
My only gripe is that a car with this kind of weight and power needs a shock that is more firm than the Monroes. I think KYB makes manual adjustables that will fit with a bit of fiddling up front. There are Bilsteins and Koni's that are stiffer than the cushy Monroes, but prices are close or equal to the stock electronic ones.
I always left my car on "firm", so I saw no reason to have this system clicking in and out.
I no longer have problems with wheel hop though. I am still considering getting the KYB's to firm up the feel.
As for the motor mount, get under there and get a look at them. Usually, it's the driver's side that breaks. You will have to look in from the rear of the motor to see it. If the metal stop tab is resting on the metal cage, it has collapsed and is probably broken like mine was. You will need to take out the I/C tubes, alternator/steering pump bracket (leave the alt and pump on the bracket, it can be done!) and probably the steering coupler to get the thing out, but it WILL come out with less trouble than meets the eye.
Best thing is, that is probably not your underlying problem. Rear shocks are easy. Motor mounts aren't!
I felt my mount give when letting out the clutch. There was a weird "rubbery" feeling to the engagement. That was the motor lifting up.. Though if you have an automatic you might not notice that much.
Good luck!
Scott