Dynoed my SC

[455Poncho]

Ran it on a Mustang Dynamometer. The car has 10% pulley, exhaust taken off after the resonator (stock cats and resonator still in place), and air silencer removed. The hp isnt all that great, but the torque is decent. How does this compare to other guys with the same mods?? is my HP low?

http://www.members.shaw.ca/jpage/dynoSC.JPG

[Shockwave]

I have a completely stock engine with no porting and original heads no work done to them. Car has 105,000 miles and dynoed what is in my sig. The 75mm TB was not on the car during the dyno testing just the original 60mm. Since the 75mm TB I am pushing 14.5 lb vs 13 lb with the 60mm tb. I think you need new high flow CATs and bigger exhaust. I would dump the factory manifolds and get headers.

Jerry

[455Poncho]

Originally posted by Shockwave
I have a completely stock engine with no porting and original heads no work done to them. Car has 105,000 miles and dynoed what is in my sig. The 75mm TB was not on the car during the dyno testing just the original 60mm. Since the 75mm TB I am pushing 14.5 lb vs 13 lb with the 60mm tb. I think you need new high flow CATs and bigger exhaust. I would dump the factory manifolds and get headers.

Jerry


Tell me more about the mustang headers. Which brand, fittment problems?? :confused:

[Shockwave]

Well Thunder Flee and I both have the 95 Mustang factory stainless headers on our SCs.

PJ's 95 - 5 Speed (aka Thunder Flee) Magnaflow CATs and stainless mufflers

http://webpages.charter.net/skywarp/sccoa/pj800.jpg

Both the drivers side and pass sides bolt up to the heades with no problems. The drivers side collector needs to be cutoff and a 3.5" section of pipe needs to be added to extend the collector around the steering shaft. The collector needs to be welded back up exactly the way it was cutoff no rotation is needed. If you car has a EGR the EGR tube needs to be cutoff about 1.25" and reflared and bent to match the slightly different angle of the nipple. These headers require new downtubes. Also the drivers side O2 sensor needs to have the wires extended, or you could buy a new one with longer wires.

One more pic of the drivers side modification.

http://webpages.charter.net/skywarp/sccoa/Dscn0004.jpg

[Mike8675309]

Is yours an auto or 5 speed?

Here is my 5speed whith 5%, panel K&N, no silencer, and removed resonator. It needed a tune up bad. I'd like to see your graph but with a smaller range. They should have isolated the 2000-5000 range so you could see more detail. In the graph below you can see how jagged it was. That's my knock sensor freaking out and pulling timing constantly.

http://www.frontiernet.net/~miketoni/images/tbird/run1.jpg

http://www.frontiernet.net/~miketoni/images/tbird/horsepowergraph.jpg

[devlin]

heres mine. all i have done is K&N panel. but it needs a hard core tune up REALLY bad. I figure i can propably get another 10HP, maybe more, if i perform some well needed maintenence.(fluid changes, plugs, wires, etc)http://www3.telus.net/buschd/Dyno.JPG
peak HP was 154hp and TQ was 240

[blkthndr]

Be sure to send these dyno charts to scguys@sccoa.com if you want them added to the Horsepower section.

-Ron

[kws6000]

455 poncho,Where did you have this done?The dyno plot appears compressed over a very narrow rpm range(probably too narrow to give your true torque peak,and probably w/o the resolution to show knock sensor involvement).A wideband a/f readout would have given you useful info .Did the dyno shop give you the option of getting this info? Devlin,what the hell kind of dyno plot do you have?It looks like it was drawn by a 4yr old with a bunch of crayons!lol

[93 Mark VIII]

mustang dynos read lower HP/TQ numbers because of how the loading is done.

Brian

[devlin]

It was my first ever run on a dyno, i think that blue spike was a missed shift or something. plus i didnt let the RPM's come down enough before going into next gear. It does make sense though if you look at it carefully. sorry man, will try harder next time.