Quick Help Please! Balancer Install

T

talon660

Registered User
I have searched every thread and I am in a pickle getting this damn balancer back on (stock). It's a nightmare for a first-timer with little automotive experience. I have been working on it for three days and through last night.

Okay, I got through every hurdle but this on. I have the installer tool (OEM form Autozone) w/ thrust bearing and all, but how EXACTLY does it work. Our balancers have an indention and I can't get around the free nut to turn it, plus its too big!

Anyone, please I have to leave on a long trip tomorrow morning; only car!

Thanks
 
#1 - just so you know, re-installing a stock balancer once it's been removed has been known to lead to failure of the balancer in short order.

Does the tool look like this:
MOR61740.jpg


If so, the shaft should just screw into the hole on the front of the crankshaft, slide the balancer over, and then thread the components down until they start to push the balancer on. Very similar to a P/S pulley install tool.
 
You need to make sure it is the same thread size on the install tool as the balancer bolt. Most the install tools have standard threads, so you will have to get or make a different install tool. The crank bolts is a Metric M14x1.25 pitch. If you have an Ace Hardware, they usually carry long bolts of this size. Get it about 1-inch longer than your balancer bolt. This should help get it started on the crank. Also get some washers to help out it the bolt bottoms out in the crank.
 
That's almost exactly like it, but I still can't see how you thread the nut (onto the thrust bearing) to push the balancer on if it is imbeded within the balancer where I can't slip a wrench over it. Am I trying to do it the wrong way? The way I see it is the bearing needs to be a larger dia. so it will push on the outside lip of the balancer, so maybe if I had a really big washer or something. . . I'm confused.
 
Yeah, mine comes with the 14X1.5 adapter (no 14X1.25) and it fits in the crank just fine. It doesn't have to be tight, right? Just threaded enough so it can pull the balancer on?

Thanks for the quick replies!
 
I guess I can't view your problem. If the tool sits too far in when force is against it, you'll need to get some washers to push it back out. There should be some method to make it work as all it does is excert force to push it on.
 
Okay, I don't know how everyone else did it (I couldn't go get any washers), here's what I did.

I placed the two halves from the power steering pulley puller in front of the bearing to bring the nut out of the ballancer where I could thread it on the crank. It only allowed so much so I went ahead and put the crank bolt in and pushed it the rest of the way (only about 1/2"). It went on easy but it took me forever to come up with how to do it.

Ford has to be sooooo different.

Another idea I came up with was how to remove the tamper-proof bolt on the CPS. I used a flat head screwdriver and hammer to notch and break the washer loose enough so I could turn it by hand.

It's not good to have an SC as your only car.:(
 
Yeah, sorry I'm late in replying, but you need some washers to push the bolt out far enough to reach it with a wrench.
 
Thanks.

Now that that is done the pos won't idle. I used to love this car til I had to really get into the motor. There are too many things that leak, too many bolts and hangers and such, it drives me insane!!

And for another thread . . .
 
It could be that the computer is going through the "re-learn" process if you had the battery disconnected for any length of time. There is a procedure to speed this up, but the computer will "sync-up" on its own after driving for a while.
Basically, the system has to relearn the signals from the sensors and then recalibrate the amount of computer controlled adjustment for fuel, air, timing, etc.

Another thing to check is any vacuum or air intake connections that may be leaking......
 
Yeah, rechecked the sensors including cam sensor cal., pulled codes (none) and it seems as if the MAFS is not connected or something except it is dumping large amounts of fuel as that is what the garage smells like now. I know everthing is connected and sealed up good. I hope I didn't nick a wire on any of the sensors. How could I check this easily? Or would it just not run if one of the wires of any critical sensors (crank, cam, MAF, ICM) was cut?

I can keep the engine idling but it is very rough and there is a whistling noise coming from the motor kinda like a supercharger noise (sounds like compressed air being forced out of a small hole) and I don't want to damage anything. I hope your right LJ.

Thanks!
 
I would guess that you are leaking boost which is metered air. So less air than the system expects is making it into the combustion process, so your fuel air ratio is way high due to the leaking boost.

and when I say leaking boost, I'm thinking a leak after the SC. Perhaps the top nut on the SC top isn't fully tight. Or one of the other SC tubes isn't tight.
 
After several engine starts and playing around with my nuts (the ones on the IC tubes of course) it is running lots better.

I am leaving out the fact that two plug wires were crossed, oh let's see, it's 123 (top row), then 546 (bottom), WTF ever, the markings on the coil pack are gone. But that is not what was causing the rough idle.

I didn't realize how exactly precise the seals must be on the IC tubes, I think maybe I left a 1/8" gap or so while sealing the tubes with blue silicone, and I am pretty sure that is where the whistling is coming from. Guess I'll go ahead and order those gaskets from tbird88, then problem solved (lifts eyebrow, gulps and crosses fingers).

Thanks for all the info, you guys are priceless.
 
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