a/c compressor clutch

XR7Kurt

Registered User
Can the clutch be replaced or does the whole compressor need to be replaced? My compressor is shot, but I can't afford to do the whole thing now. I can't drive with the pulley smoking either, so any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
first, pull the wire connector off of the clutch to prevent it from locking and spinning the compressor - when ac is off, the pulley spins freely.
yes you can buy new clutches.
also, ac clutches usually dont just stop working, if you clutch is no good its almost a sure fact that your compressor is hooped.
and its almost as much money to buy a rebuilt compressor as it costs to buy a new pulley, (it was 200 something cdn for a new clutch and i got a rebuilt compressor for 270 cdn) and even if you do buy a new pulley i can almost gaurentee its gonna go right away too.
 
The compressor is bad. It locked up while I was in a friend's house for a few minutes picking up my kids. I had left the car running with the air on and when I came out the clutch was smoking and sparking, so the pulley doesn't even spin freely with the air off.
I don't care about the air at this point just the pulley spinning freely, which it doesn't do now, I don't think there is any bearing left.
Are the compressors/ pulley the same on all t-bird/cougars? I was thinking about going to the junkyard and getting a unit that spins freely for a cheap temporary fix, just to be able to drive the car.

thanks,
Kurt
 
When that happened to me the plastic plug that the electrical connector plugs into on the clutch had jammed itself between the pulley and the A/C housing. I dug it out and the pulley turned freely.
Just something to check.
 
not all the pulleys are the same. i believe that there is a 16 or 18 spline pulley and 21 spline pulley. so youll have to take the pulley off of the junk compressor to make and make sure they are the same.
 
diagram

If anyone can post a diagram of how the clutch is mounted to the compressor and what all the parts are it would really help me out.

Kurt
 
The cheapest way to go is to get a FS-10 compressor from a t-bird LX or Cougar . Look for a 94-97 if you can or if you don't want a junkyward one buy a reman unit.

What you can do is use your 8 rib pulley and the newer clutch. Use a clutch removal tool (loan a tool from Autozone) and then remove the snap ring from the compressor snout and pull off the pulley. Just reverse the proceedure on the newer compressor.

You will have to add some small washers to space the clutch out to get the correct gap between the pulley and clutch.
Otherwise you are looking at around $250 for a reman.

Jerry
 
Compressor Options

I did the same thing as Shockwave is talking about.Just took a good FS-10 and changed over my coil and hub(because of the rib count)and added the clutch that was on the FS-10 which is very common compressor found on many Fords.You have to make sure that you have the manifold orientation correct when you put the coil on so the connector is facing up.The gap is usually between .015-.033 in.
It works great.
 
You are the guys I need to talk to!

My A/C died last year on my 1990 SC. I have checked the prices, and cant believe what it will cost me:(

So... I have decided to do it myself!:cool:

My compressor is shot. This FS 10 compressor will work on my car? Should I buy a remaned one or a Ford unit? About how much are they? Do they still use the FS 10 on late model cars? (Possible I could get one from a wrecking yard).

And lastly... What else do I need to replace to get my A/C going again? (and do it right) I have been told several different stories buy local shops. Their prices start at $1000:eek:

Thanks!

Duane
 
Thank guys, I guess it's time to get at it now.
One more question. I just found a picture of the pulley and see that it has a bearing pressed into it. I know without even pulling mine that this bearing is gone.
So if I try to get a used pulley from a junkyard does the pulley have to be from an SC? From the other replies it sounds like it, but I'd like to know for sure before I go running around the junkyards.

Thanks again,

Kurt
 
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bearing

Yes you are going to have to get an SC pulley because no other Ford use the large belt except maybe newer diesels but not sure)
You can probably get the bearing a shop that specializes in them and then use the same pulley.
Don't forget to change the accumulator and all of the o-rings in the system when you decide to get it done...and the appropriate oil...add dye to it also so you can trace leaks down the road if you have troubles.Good Luck.
 
TbirdSC93 said:
factory air conditioning corp.

$272.80 They say there new...if anyone knows about this company and there compressors...please sound off....I need a new compressor too

I found another one by apco for 199 new
Factory Air, aka Four Seasons, aka Everco, aka Murray manufactures both rebuilt (crapola) and new compressors. Everyone I talked to before I replaced my A/C recommended staying away from any rebuilds from 4-Siezens. I did and bought a new Factory Air compressor for about $40 more than the rebuilt price.. Its a year old now and been working great. The guys at www.ackits.com advertise a quality rebuilt unit for a good price. They also offer an FS-10 with a sump which means no more oil starvation failures.
I don't know about apco.
 
Re: You are the guys I need to talk to!

duanemyhre said:
My A/C died last year on my 1990 SC. I have checked the prices, and cant believe what it will cost me:(

So... I have decided to do it myself!:cool:

My compressor is shot. This FS 10 compressor will work on my car? Should I buy a remaned one or a Ford unit? About how much are they? Do they still use the FS 10 on late model cars? (Possible I could get one from a wrecking yard).
The 90 year uses the FS10. I'd recommend a new compressor... doesn't have to be Ford, or check with the people at www.ackits.com.. they're rather proud of their rebuilds. A used one might be fine also, but its a matter of if you don't mind replacing it again later if it goes out. A used one's probably $50 at a junk yard, a rebuilt is usually $250, and new runs around $290.
And lastly... What else do I need to replace to get my A/C going again? (and do it right) I have been told several different stories buy local shops. Their prices start at $1000:eek:
They also have a great article on black-death compressor failure and retrofits to r134A. You 'll note that they recommend a new condenser because the split path tube-n-fin r12 condensers are hard to flush.. I bought a new Go-Dan serpentine condenser which works better with r134a. You may be just fine with the old one. The trade off is the time to redo it, and the cost to evacuate/vaccuum/recharge the refrigerant if you don't like how its cooling.

A shop which knows what they're doing will tell you that you need to have the system flushed, new Orings, new liquid line, new accumulator, r134a adapter fittings, r134 compatible oil, and refrigerant. They will charge it by pulling a vaccuum and use guages on the high and suction ports and use about 32Oz of r134a. That works out to be about 80% of the original r12 amount which is the standard that the pros use. If they're real savvvy, they'll make a 1/2 turn CCW adjustment to the pressure switch. All of this is necessary, not just a parts sales job.
You could do most of the parts work yourself, and leave the vaccuum/charge for the shop if you're so inclined. I don't recommend the retro kits unless you have access to a vaccuum pump also.
Good luck. :D
 
approx cost.

Also.. if you considering DIY on a black death compressor failure and r134a conversion, this is a rough estimate of your cost/time:
New compressor: $300 (1 hr to remove/reinstall)
New condenser: $150 (2hrs.. have to drain/remove radiator)
New liquid line (has the Otube built in): $30 (1/2 hr)
New accumulator: $50 (1/2 hr)
Flushing solution: $10 (only need flush evaporator and suction/high line 1/2hr)
7oz PAG or Ester oil: $5 (spread out 2/1/2/2 comp/conden/evap/accum)
Orings: $5 (5min)
Fittings/Required blue label: $15 (10min)

Subtotal: $565

Shop vaccuum+charge+refrigerant: $80

Yours or shop labor: 5hrs or so.
Total: $645 + labor.

That's doing the job right and not cutting corners. If you reuse the liquid line (by reverse flushing) and condenser (also reverse flushed), you can shave almost $200 off the cost. The accumulator should not be reused.
Hope this helps. :cool:
 
Thanks!

TbirdSCFan

Thanks for your help and information! This project will consume most of my free time in August. I plan to do most of it my-self and then have a pro finish it off.

Thanks,

Duane :D
 
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