Planning Thermostat Replacement; Tips Wanted

NorthrnSCownr

Registered User
I live on an Island, and keep my SC on the continent, therefor I am not able to see her much, and check certain things. In this case, what needs to be removed in order to get at the thermostat housing? Hopefully not the IC tube. Any tips, pointers would be great!
Tom
 
i got to mine with the tubes still on

I got to mine with the ic tubes on-good luck-also, thats a great quote you have there-I may steal that someday(with permission)lol. mike.
 
Good luck!?

That sounds encouraging! I think I get the gist of that one.
BTW The quote is from a very profound book called Zhuan Falun by LI HONGZHI and it is an exerpt from the LUNYU or opening statement.... More information about Falun Dafa can be found Here
 
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Don't over-tighten the 2 bolts when you put it back on or it will likely leak!!
Good time to change the bypass hose as well.
 
I've done this plenty of times, twice in the last month and IM gonna do it at least once in the next few weeks. This is usually what I do, I use two felpro gaskets so it seals better w/o over-tighting the housing...doing so will warp the mating surface of the housing:

1-take off accessory belt to get it out the way and have more space.
2-drain a bit of coolant from the bottom of the car by turning the radiator draining valve
3- take off upper rad hose (thats why I drained some coolant, to avoid having it splash all over while removing hose)
4-remove two screws holding the t-stat housing together
5-remove the small hose attaching the housing to the block
6-remove electrical connector to coolant temp sensor
7-pull the housing out
8-clean surfaces on housing and block (i use gasket remover and a piece of sand paper)
9-using the first gasket and some blue RTV seal the t-stat to the housing and let dry for a few mins
10-put the second gasket on top of the first with some RTV so you now have the t-stat positioned on the housing and its being held by the gaskets...so you can now place it on the block w/o having the t-stat giggle all over the place and risk not seating correctly.
11-tighten bolts...DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN
12-put everything back together & clean up excess RTV with a screw driver or other straight-edge. I usually let the silicone dry overnight to assure that it seals correctly.

Dont use a t-stat under 180*'s as it will not allow the comp. to run on a closed loop, besides it usually makes no notisable difference if you go cooler....Im using a 160 on my 94 and thats why im changing it..agian... plus imma change it on my 89 after doing the HG'S. I will be using 180* robert shaw t-stats which , for what i've heard, seem to flow much better than your average t-stats.
 
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