MP Front mount IC Complaints.

ricardoa1

Registered User
Well the MP intercooler works extremely well, Performance wise, But the Radiator does not get enough cool air to keep the car cool. On MY way to NJ for the shoot out, my overflow tank was boiling while simply cruising at 65mph on 90-95 degree weather. And to boot if I turned on the A/c it would get even warmer. Not even the fans helped.
I am a little dissapointed with the placement of the IC.
Any others with this problem.
Aside from this the IC cools the intake air charge very well.
 
ricardoa1 said:
Well the MP intercooler works extremely well, Performance wise, But the Radiator does not get enough cool air to keep the car cool. On MY way to NJ for the shoot out, my overflow tank was boiling while simply cruising at 65mph on 90-95 degree weather. And to boot if I turned on the A/c it would get even warmer. Not even the fans helped.
I am a little dissapointed with the placement of the IC.
Any others with this problem.
Aside from this the IC cools the intake air charge very well.

You're running a 180stat - try a 160?:confused:
 
I think personally this is where you got to call it, you want power and be able to maintain it with not harming any part of your motor, or you want luxury?...

yank that AC condensor out of there, I cant believe how just removing the AC condensor changed temps of the rad while driving
 
Either of you tried Redline's WaterWetter? I know its not a fix to the problem, but it might help out for these 90 degree days. I could see about a 20 degree difference in my Caprice using it. Seems like a cheap way to lower temps.
 
In the summer you can decrease the mixture of antifreeze to 30/70 to gain some cooling capacity. Redline Water Wetter also helps. Then make sure your radiator pressure cap is working. If it isn't allowing the 13psi (I think) that stock calls for, water will start boiling sooner than it should, causing a more serious temp issue than it normally would. you might want to consider the Evans coolant with a pressure cap. It won't necessarily increase cooling capacity a whole lot, but its boilling point is much higher so it will still function at higher heats, where other products break down.

Then as Dave has done, make sure you have your Air Dam intact.

Also like Dave appears to be considering, it would help to vent the hood a bit, either with a cowl outlet or vents along the sides. I've been considering vents without even having such an issue, simply due to how hot it gets under hood stock.

Keep in mind you just stuck a huge obstruction in front of the radiator that not only is diverting some air flow, but also is loading that air with some heat that it didn't have before, so the air that reaches the radiator now has already absorbed heat from the intercooler and A/C condenser. It can only absorb so much heat.

Physics at play in an SC.
 
I dont see the need to get ride of your A/C just because you want to go fast. I know there are lots of guys that still have it in there car. You try driving around with out A/C
 
I am working on mine a lot .So I just left the two peice plastic cowl off.
And the sc run in the middle of n instead of between o & r on 100 degee days.
seems to let a lot more air flow from under the hood.

Maybe a cobra R style hood or one with a cowl hood,open in the back
would help.

I like seeing my motor going down the road any way.With the two peice
cowl removed.TO others it may look bad though.

I have seen some after market cowl doors on the back of hoods( GM)
that will open with a vacunm motor .I f you wanted a smooth look
on your hood,but more air flow on hot days.The last time I seen one
was on TNN show TRUCKS last weekin.The company may be listed on
line under that show title.
 
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My point is that I payed a good chunk of money to get this. about $1500 dollars to be exact.
The kit it self I dont think is worth the $1500 but I paid it, just because there are no other options available.
So I think part of that $$ is going to the R&D and exclusiveness of the item. So at that price I should not have to look for alternative ways to fix the design flaws of a companys product, especialy at this price tag.
NOw I have to spend more money so I can Use my car on a hot day. And stop using the A/C.
That aint right.
 
If you still have the stock radiator you were begging for overheating anyway. I live in Los Angeles where its gets stinking hot every summer and we have traffic every day, so no A/C and a car that overheats at a steady hwy speed is worthless.

My plan is to re-core the radiator with something a bunch bigger and install a push fan in front of the I/C and a pull fan behind the Radiator.

I'd love to go through a radiator manufacturer's catalog and see what will fit, now that the stock I/C is gone.
 
Ricardo,

Since adding the 3 row core radiator, larger air dam and removing the seal from the rear of the hood helped but didn't cure mine from running warm, I'm thinking my next move will be a shorter AC condensor. That should make about a 6" gap on the drivers side for fresh air to reach the IC and radiator without first going thru the AC condensor.

IMO, A large part of the problem is that your making too much power for the stock radiator to handle. So your cooling system was most likely on the verge of it's capacity before adding the MP FMIC. On average an aluminum radiator will cool 25% better than the stock one, so that may be all you need.

I'm also asking Brian to review my tuner/chip file to see if some part throttle timing can be removed to make the engine run a little cooler on the highway.

David
 
As far as the V-8 Radiator I am pretty sure that it is the same one that is used on the plastic tank radiator SC's. The early SC radiators with brass tanks use a different flow pattern all together. Don't remember exactly, but one is a cross flow design and the other flows downward. I believe the early models were more effective.
 
Thanks for all the replys.
My rad cooled the car just fine before, it is fairly new. and has the metal end tanks. MY overheating problems are at cruising speed so I dont think bolt on mods should increase heat all that much maybe if I had a head and cam combo, the car should still run at normal tems until I get on it, but it doesnt. If I get on it the car will definetely break down. I am past the M mark on mine. Its very humid in NE so maybe other states are hot but not as himid. If you see my car I have the biggest grille on an SC. Nothing but air gets in there, but seems the rad doesnt get any



AS for the rows going sideways. All SCs rad go up and down.
 
Even if you have a large air intake,and no exit for the air.
The air is just going to stack up in the engine bay,and
restick the flow of air.

Thanks for posting this problem.I am sure you will get things worked out.
But I must agree with you,for $1500.00 bucks! MP should have installed it
for you ,with no cooling problems.

Just for a test. You could remove the two peice plastic cowl on the bottom
of the windsheild,and see if this helps.Then make some plans on if you need
more cooling or more air flow or both.

RANDY
 
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you guys have to consider that the temp gauges in these cars are junk. I've data logged several SC's, and they all vary. Chris Mendola's car will be right in the middle at 180 degrees and standing about70 degrees with the water temps reach to 195. On my car the same position is about 215, and at the dyno I've seen some cars hit 228 right in the center.

If you don't have a real temp gauge, there's no positive proof you really have a problem.

Brian
 
93 Mark VIII said:
you guys have to consider that the temp gauges in these cars are junk. I've data logged several SC's, and they all vary. Chris Mendola's car will be right in the middle at 180 degrees and standing about70 degrees with the water temps reach to 195. On my car the same position is about 215, and at the dyno I've seen some cars hit 228 right in the center.

If you don't have a real temp gauge, there's no positive proof you really have a problem.

Brian
I could not agree with you more!
Another problem with the MP intercooler is the layout of the components. Not really good for street use, but fine for strip use.
I remember looking at the pictures of the MP system installed and I thought to myself "Thats NOT going to work on the STREET" but kept it to myself for fear of starting a flame war.
 
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