lessonintorque
Registered User
Ok so my alt took a dump on me and I want to know if anyone knows about a bigger one that compatable with an 89 SC and who makes it. Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
bigger alternator?
- Thread starter lessonintorque
- Start date
duanemyhre
Registered User
Im not sure if this will help you, but I found this article while searching the same topic.
The alternators found on the 5.0 Thunderbirds and Cougars are rated at 70 and some at 90 amperes depending on the vehicle options. At idle, they put out only 15 amps, hardly acceptable for a street car with performance or stereo up grades. So with just minor up grades like inline fuel pump, super-bright headlights, performance ignition system, or your typical stereo amplifiers will put a serious drain on the electrical system. Now add a set of under drive pulleys and watch your voltmeter drop below the NORM at idle in gear.
The fix: Replace that under rated alternator with a 3G 130 amp found on any 94 - 95 5.0 Mustang or 94 - 98 3.8 Mustang with the Mach 460 stereo system. This alt. can be purchased at most automotive parts stores at a fairly reasonable price. If you require an even hotter alternator there are a few manufactures that build even higher rated units using the 3G housing. For instance Best America Ind, http://www.bestamericaind.com can supply an alternator that produces 220 amperes. This is the one I use and I am very satisfied with it.
Not all 3G alternators are 130 amps or have the correct housing. To identify the correct 3G look for the mounting ears spaced 180 degrees apart from each other. The factory or remanufactured units will have an ID tag on the back stating 130 amp or high performance 130 amp. There is no difference between the two so don't let that throw you. They also come with a 60 mm pulley. One of the tricks to get more amps at idle is to install the older Fox body Mustang 70 amp alt. pulley that is 50mm. In order to use this pulley you must place a shim between the pulley and housing or it will bind. This alt. uses the same 3 prong and single prong connectors as used on the MN12s so there is no cutting or splicing necessary. But, there is some machining required.
To physically install this alt. you are going to have manufacture a small bracket to allow proper clearance and alignment. I was able to make one out of a piece of 1 x 2 x 6 inch aluminum stock and a piece of 7/8" aluminum round stock. The 3G is physically bigger than the unit on the MN12s besides having it's mounting ears located differently. The bracket makes room for the alt. to fit, keeping it mounted to the same lower location of the original. This allows the use of the same factory length belt and tensioner use.
Note: Before starting disconnect your battery. Remove the 3 wires attached to the back of your alternator. Remove the alt. from the engine. By following the simple drawing I have provided you should be able to make your own bracket. The pictures above are of my bracket. I made this in about 30 minutes just eye balling it, no measurements at all. So it looks a little different from the drawing. The following tools, material and equipment are required:
1 piece of 1 x 2 x 6 inch aluminum stock
1 piece of 7/8" aluminum round stock
Two 3/8" bolts, one 1 ¾" and one 2 ½", Two 3/8" nuts and 4 washers
Band saw
Drill press or a good half-inch electric drill and vice, Drill bit set
Tig welder
I have pics and drawings if you need them.
The alternators found on the 5.0 Thunderbirds and Cougars are rated at 70 and some at 90 amperes depending on the vehicle options. At idle, they put out only 15 amps, hardly acceptable for a street car with performance or stereo up grades. So with just minor up grades like inline fuel pump, super-bright headlights, performance ignition system, or your typical stereo amplifiers will put a serious drain on the electrical system. Now add a set of under drive pulleys and watch your voltmeter drop below the NORM at idle in gear.
The fix: Replace that under rated alternator with a 3G 130 amp found on any 94 - 95 5.0 Mustang or 94 - 98 3.8 Mustang with the Mach 460 stereo system. This alt. can be purchased at most automotive parts stores at a fairly reasonable price. If you require an even hotter alternator there are a few manufactures that build even higher rated units using the 3G housing. For instance Best America Ind, http://www.bestamericaind.com can supply an alternator that produces 220 amperes. This is the one I use and I am very satisfied with it.
Not all 3G alternators are 130 amps or have the correct housing. To identify the correct 3G look for the mounting ears spaced 180 degrees apart from each other. The factory or remanufactured units will have an ID tag on the back stating 130 amp or high performance 130 amp. There is no difference between the two so don't let that throw you. They also come with a 60 mm pulley. One of the tricks to get more amps at idle is to install the older Fox body Mustang 70 amp alt. pulley that is 50mm. In order to use this pulley you must place a shim between the pulley and housing or it will bind. This alt. uses the same 3 prong and single prong connectors as used on the MN12s so there is no cutting or splicing necessary. But, there is some machining required.
To physically install this alt. you are going to have manufacture a small bracket to allow proper clearance and alignment. I was able to make one out of a piece of 1 x 2 x 6 inch aluminum stock and a piece of 7/8" aluminum round stock. The 3G is physically bigger than the unit on the MN12s besides having it's mounting ears located differently. The bracket makes room for the alt. to fit, keeping it mounted to the same lower location of the original. This allows the use of the same factory length belt and tensioner use.
Note: Before starting disconnect your battery. Remove the 3 wires attached to the back of your alternator. Remove the alt. from the engine. By following the simple drawing I have provided you should be able to make your own bracket. The pictures above are of my bracket. I made this in about 30 minutes just eye balling it, no measurements at all. So it looks a little different from the drawing. The following tools, material and equipment are required:
1 piece of 1 x 2 x 6 inch aluminum stock
1 piece of 7/8" aluminum round stock
Two 3/8" bolts, one 1 ¾" and one 2 ½", Two 3/8" nuts and 4 washers
Band saw
Drill press or a good half-inch electric drill and vice, Drill bit set
Tig welder
I have pics and drawings if you need them.
lessonintorque
Registered User
Damn duane
Thats more than an answer, how much was the alternator? How long did it take to recieve?
Thats more than an answer, how much was the alternator? How long did it take to recieve?
gldiii
SCCoA Lifetime Member
I believe those instructions are from Lonnie Doll and they work real well on the 5.0 'Birds. (I think tbird88 even makes the extension piece.) The SC is a slightly different beast and is a 110 AMP Mitsubishi unit. I have put a rebuilt 200 AMP 3G alternator in my SC. It takes some patience, some alternator bracket grinding and some re-wiring for the 3-wire to 2-wire plug on the SCs.
I got my alternator from Mr. Alternator. I believe he might also be able to rebuild the stock SC Mitsubushi into a higher amperage unit. Get a hold of Tom at www.mralternator.com.
Here are some links to a previous alternator posting:
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18658
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=26679
I got my alternator from Mr. Alternator. I believe he might also be able to rebuild the stock SC Mitsubushi into a higher amperage unit. Get a hold of Tom at www.mralternator.com.
Here are some links to a previous alternator posting:
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18658
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=26679
duanemyhre
Registered User
Actually, I haven�ft done that modification myself yet. I have burned up an alternator almost every year since I bought the car in 1997 (In Boca Raton) ((I really miss Florida!!))
So�c the next time my Alternator dies on me, this may be the route I take.
I have pics and even a detailed drawing of the bracket. I also have instructions for how to build the bracket.
I cant remember where I got the info. It might have been through tccoa??!!
Let me know if you want pics and other info. Im happy to help if I can
Duane
So�c the next time my Alternator dies on me, this may be the route I take.
I have pics and even a detailed drawing of the bracket. I also have instructions for how to build the bracket.
I cant remember where I got the info. It might have been through tccoa??!!
Let me know if you want pics and other info. Im happy to help if I can
Duane
duanemyhre
Registered User
Thanks gldiii
I will add this info to my Alternator upgrade file.
I will add this info to my Alternator upgrade file.
lessonintorque
Registered User
Holy chrome!!
Holy **** !! is that your engine Gldiii? That awesome!!! Im so jelous! How much have you sunk into that??? Oh yeah and how much was your alt. Maybe one day Ill be as cool as you and have a shiny engine But untill then Ill have to settle for fast and ugly
Holy **** !! is that your engine Gldiii? That awesome!!! Im so jelous! How much have you sunk into that??? Oh yeah and how much was your alt.
Maybe one day Ill be as cool as you and have a shiny engine But untill then Ill have to settle for fast and ugly
gldiii
SCCoA Lifetime Member
That is the engine in my car. Took about 3 years to get the whole car done!
The 200 AMP 3G from Mr Alternator lists at $225, I can't remember how much extra the chrome cost.
Another good place to look is PA Performance (http://www.pa-performance.com/). At one time they were supposed to be making a 3G kit for the SC, but I don't know what became of it.
The 200 AMP 3G from Mr Alternator lists at $225, I can't remember how much extra the chrome cost.
Another good place to look is PA Performance (http://www.pa-performance.com/). At one time they were supposed to be making a 3G kit for the SC, but I don't know what became of it.