Spun Another Rod Bearing, Rebuild Questions Within

DLF

Registered User
Not as bad as last time, but both halves of the #6 rod bearing ended up on the same side of the rod :(

I heard the rod knock and shut it down, so I didn't destroy the block or my cam like last time. Pulled the engine and disassembled it today.

The #6 crank journal is scored pretty bad.

Since I've lost two rod bearings in the past 9 months, I'm now convinced that the stock bottom end isn't up to my power level (300+ RWHP) and 5600 RPM's.

Questions:

1. Repair or Replace the Crank? I thought I read a post about a place that can restore crankshafts, but I can't find it now. If not, does anyone have a pristine crankshaft they don't need?

2. Are there better than stock rod and/or main bearings available? What, if any, are the caveats to using non-stock bearings?

3. Can I get .20 over forged pistons, rings, and forged rods for less than $1,000? Any suggestions?

Thanks
 
i dont know how u went on about your rebuild, but here is some of the things that could of caused your problem........before your rebuild this last time did u send your rods reconditioned. YOu said that last spun bearing was # 6 also i believe, if that was the case some time all the friction will start to eat the walls on the rod leaving the notch where the bearings lock very shallow and will not lock properly causing them to spin..clearences also--- did you send your crank to get polished---maybe i didnt look scoured but your journals could of been out of round..... on the main bearing u do know that our last journal is 10 undersized already so u got to watch how u match your bearings on the block..Also did you get new bolts or studs.. ARP preferably. the stock ones tend to come loose after reused not always but possibilty...... as for the crank its the # 6 journal so when u take it to get fixed they probably wont want to warranty the job SOMETHING WITH THE #6 JOURNAL theyll do it but they wont guarantee it aint going to break. if i were u some machine shop have cranks in stock if your core is acceptable meaning not to ruined u can get an exchange for about $80 or so and best thing to do get your main bearing set from them also so they can do an exact match.. good luck
 
I can't give you much help on the technical part of your post, but I can tell you that the stock bottom end IS up to the power level you are at. Mine is still not only stock but original as well.

Steve Webb is kind of a "bottom end guru" if you can get a hold of him. He could tell you more. I know he uses a King bearing in his motor with stock rods etc.
 
Actually, last time I spun #1, and this was a completely different short block.
 
DFL. There is a group buy starting for custom pistons and rods,total seal rings.
in the FOR SALE or GP section on this site.

randy
 
Randy & Connie said:
DFL. There is a group buy starting for custom pistons and rods,total seal rings.
in the FOR SALE or GP section on this site.

randy

Thanks I'm in if we can get it moving.....

George, Thanks for the links.
 
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