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XsithX
07-19-2003, 04:09 AM
Recently my car has started this problem...

When putting the car into gear (let's say 2nd gear) and trying to accelerate, the RPM needle will jump up about 500-800 RPM and then go back down (and climb again) before the car actually starts to accelerate. This creates a lag time of about 2 seconds before the car accelerates.

This greatly affects casually driving... I've become one of those goober's that you beep at because they don't move right away when the light turns green.

Any ideas?

J57ltr
07-19-2003, 04:25 AM
Title says it all.

Jeff

Red Thunder SC
07-19-2003, 04:28 AM
This is the standard (or one of a few) clutch checks:

On a flat surface (car is not moving), put in 4'th gear, and slowly let off the clutch (give no gas). If the car abruptly stalls, clutch is probably not worn out. If the tack does not drop when the clutch should be grabbing, then the clutch is most likely in need of replacement.

J57ltr
07-19-2003, 04:44 AM
That only works if the clutch has about 3 miles left on it. I have had many a clutch that I could let out and it wouldn't start slipping until I was up around 3k the it would shoot to 5K and the speed doesn't catch up. If you can let out on the clutch and stomp it and engine rpm increases but the car doesn't accelerate as fast as it should it's time to replace it. Don't wait until the last minute.

There isn't another symptom that will cause the problem described. If engine rpm and speed do not rise proportionally then the clutch is slipping no ifs ands or buts about it.

It could be the pressure plate getting weak, the disc itself, but you have to pull the reann to get to it anyway. That's why you buy the clutch kit. Might as well replace the slave cylinder as well because if you don't you'll have that Bulldog (Spike) hanging of your butt just like Tom (from the Tom and Jerry show).

Jeff

XsithX
07-19-2003, 03:49 PM
Alright. Thanks a lot.

Do you have any idea how long you think before it goes?

I won't really have the money to buy a new clutch for like a month or so.


Thanks again

Red Thunder SC
07-19-2003, 03:51 PM
For an average, no foot in it / no burnouts....two weeks. Just make sure you minimize slip whenever possible. Remember, the clutch doesn't wear when it is hooked up, just when it is slipping (pedal pressed partially in).

XsithX
07-19-2003, 05:21 PM
I just tried the 4th gear thing... the car RPMS stay at around 500 but the car doesnt shut off.

I imagine this means I need a new clutch ASAP?

GooeyGus2
07-20-2003, 01:14 AM
yes :eek: :eek: :eek:

MN12 KID
07-20-2003, 01:46 AM
Originally posted by XsithX
I just tried the 4th gear thing... the car RPMS stay at around 500 but the car doesnt shut off.

I imagine this means I need a new clutch ASAP?

LT. PILE, YOU BETTER REPLACE THAT CLUTCH NOW, BOYEH. MOVE IT! MOVE IT! MOVE IT! :P

J57ltr
07-20-2003, 02:19 AM
Uh... Roger that, about 3 miles left.

Jeff

MN12 KID
07-20-2003, 03:13 AM
Originally posted by J57ltr
Uh... Roger that, about 3 miles left.

Jeff

$10 in my left nut says one mile, if he likes to hesitate off the line.

J57ltr
07-20-2003, 03:24 AM
Originally posted by MN12 KID
$10 in my left nut says one mile, if he likes to hesitate off the line.

I better check mine I might have $20 down there.

Jeff


Now this is what I would call Elmer Fudd Syndrome (EFS)

XsithX
07-20-2003, 03:31 AM
I found this clutch kit online that won't hurt my wallet:

http://eclutchmaster.com/main/montly%20special/montly%20special.html


I'm probably going to go with that. It comes with pretty much everything.

Thanks again, everyone.

(The only problem is, my mechanic is about 4 miles down the road)


Edit: $139.54 for the kit.

J57ltr
07-20-2003, 03:52 AM
1989-1993
Ford Thunderbird
3.8L 232" Including Turbo & SC
$139.54


1994-1997
Ford Thunderbird
3.8L 232" Including Turbo & SC
$175.30


Their description almost scares me. You will also need a slave cylinder. I'm guessing that your not going to have the money to pay someone twice to remove and reinstall the tranny. Believe me I did the clutch in my old ladies Ranger (exact same setup but about 2 times easier to work under) I said I don't need one of them there slave cylinders this ones just fine. A few weeks later she was saying something about the pedal feeling funny. It was out of fluid. Filled it bled it and drilled a hole dead center in the bell housing so the fluid wouldn't make it's way to the clutch material and just added fluid until it started it's way into the throw out bearing and washed the grease out of it so that I got a nice howl out of the bearing every time you pushed the clutch. Nothing like doing something twice to make you do things right the first time.

Jeff

MN12 KID
07-20-2003, 04:00 AM
Originally posted by J57ltr
1989-1993
Ford Thunderbird
3.8L 232" Including Turbo & SC
$139.54


1994-1997
Ford Thunderbird
3.8L 232" Including Turbo & SC
$175.30


Their description almost scares me...
Jeff

All online monthly special discounts scare me.

Turbo and SC? Sounds like someone from a Ford dealership placed that ad. I still remember the time I rolled up into the dealership for a recall appointment (headlamp switch), and the mechanic thought the car was turbo-equipped. I was going to ask for a Supervisor to fire that retard!!! :rolleyes:

curse
07-20-2003, 06:38 PM
Thats nothing, I went to the dealer to ask them if they had any parts for the M5R2, they swore up and down that the tbirds came with a t-5:eek:

AsScLoWn
07-20-2003, 06:42 PM
no, keep driving, that way the flywheel will have cracks really deep that cant be machined:rolleyes:

MN12 KID
07-21-2003, 12:35 AM
Originally posted by curse
Thats nothing, I went to the dealer to ask them if they had any parts for the M5R2, they swore up and down that the tbirds came with a t-5:eek:

Hmm, wrong Coupe. Turbo Coupes came with a T5.:)

J57ltr
07-21-2003, 12:55 AM
Originally posted by AsScLoWn
no, keep driving, that way the flywheel will have cracks really deep that cant be machined:rolleyes:

Hell at this point he's probably going to have to add shims between the crank and flywheel by the time he has it machined.

Jeff

MN12 KID
07-21-2003, 01:10 AM
Tow it to the nearest transmission shop.

BobGPz
07-21-2003, 01:48 AM
When you replace the clutch it is a good idea to replace that crappy Ford Hydraulic Slave Cylinder. (The part that actually pushes the pressure plate away from the clutch).

Mine was gone when I replaced it a year ago, and the new one is already leaking badly all over the clutch. Arghh!