View Full Version : Need Help From The Experts! Please!

Frank Bokodi
07-21-2003, 07:14 PM
I am currenlty finishing up an ongoing SC project. It is the complete rebuild of the engine with a few performance parts added. Conversion from an Auto to 5 sp. I am having problems getting this thing to run right. Here is a list of the mods.

.030 over pistons w/ Total Seal rings, (gapless 2nd ring)
1.73 Svo roller rockers.
All new plugs/wires
Mag. Powers Raised SC top
75mm BBK Throt. Body
75mm Pro M Mass Air
38lb injectors
Kooks Ceramic coated med length headers.
Kirban AFPR
190 l/hr fuel pump.

When I first started this thing it ran horribly. I troubleshot until I realized one possibly two of the injectors were sticking causing a flooding problem. I switched back to the stock injectors and mass air for now. I have messed with this thing until I have it as close to running right as I can get. It still has a hesitaion bringing the r's up from idle. The cooling fan runs constantly and the Check Engine light is on. I have new O2 sensors. The one speculation I have left is the fact that I Don't have the rest of the exhaust on yet. Some people tell me a fuel injected car won't run right without the exhaust some say it will run fine with open headers. Also one of the headers is open, and one has a down tube with glass pack in it bolted up. The other down tube wouldn't fit right so I have to fix it. Tha car acted like a car with retarded timing. But I timed the cam sensor properly, I checked it twice. It seemed like it wasn't making power. Ok sorry for being long winded, but if anyone has some ideas for me they would be greatly appreciated. If anyone who reads can hook me up with one of the SC EXPERTS. That would be terriffic too. Thanks a million for any help.

Sincerely, (hoping someone can help)
Frank Bokodi

David Neibert
07-21-2003, 07:27 PM

I'm betting your problem is with crossed plug wires. The haynes manual has the wire numbers labeled wrong on the coil pack. Here is the correct diagram.



07-21-2003, 09:25 PM
Very likely plug wires. Also, don't hesitate to pull the codes and see what it says.

FI motors don't care any more than another if there is exhaust.

But without Oxygen sensors wired up or sensing anything you will get a check engine light and it won't be able to go into closed loop mode so you will likely run a bit rich.

07-21-2003, 10:12 PM
Try changing your plugs again . Motorcraft

blown north
07-22-2003, 12:51 AM
What o2 sensers did you use? I am currently rebuilding my engine and ordered the bosch 16.5'' leads but they are three wire I need four wires for my 95.

Frank Bokodi
07-22-2003, 06:23 PM
Thanks Guys for the responses. First, I've heard the same thing about the haynes manual, but mine the coil pack just like you've shown here. Also I used Napa 02 sensors. I had to extend the leads with an old set that I had. I have tried to pull the codes, but I have a cheap (Autozone Special) code scanner. It worked for me before on my 90. Now when I plug it in to try the key on engine off self test, it just starts buzzing. I turn the key on set it to test but nothing happens. I am beginning to think I have another faulty eec. (Second one in this car.) Thanks again for your responses. All further advice will be greatly welcomed.

07-23-2003, 10:42 AM
I'm not an expert on 02 sensors, but I remember reading if long wires were needed then you must purchase sensors with the longer wires already installed. Something about resistence being affected if you alter the wire length. Sensor and wire lenght are set by manufacture to work.

07-23-2003, 05:21 PM
I'd either get another cheap code reader, or do it the manual way to pull the codes.

07-23-2003, 05:34 PM
If the temp sensor is unplugged it will cause the fan to run all the time


My vote goes to vacuum leak.

07-23-2003, 07:47 PM
could timing chain be off a tooth ? or a valve to tight or big vacuum leak mine ran fine with open manifolds but i just started it for a second i think you can suck in cool air and warp valves that way
open headers are longer they should be ok to run them open

07-23-2003, 08:09 PM
The paper clip goes where the jumper wire in this picture goes and you count the flashes of your check engine light. Please be aware that if during this test you lose connection, it could clear the codes entirely. Make sure your connections are secure.

Frank Bokodi
07-23-2003, 08:56 PM
Thanks again guys for the input. I thoght the O2 lead extension might be a problem, but some people told me it would be ok. I now have a couple things I might try. I'll update if anything works out. Meanwhile keep the input coming I can really use the help. I appreciate it very much. Thanks again.

07-23-2003, 08:59 PM
Vacuum leak. Anything after the MAF will cause the problem you have listed. Look at the FAQ for "Boost leaks". What did you use to seal the IC tubes and SC top?


MIKE 38sc
07-23-2003, 09:09 PM
My first suspect would be vac leak also. These engines are bad about it.

07-23-2003, 09:14 PM
i doubt if longer leads woud hurt but never tried it i hooked a voltmeter to the black wire on my 02 sensor its cool to see how they work above .5 volts is rich below .5 volts is lean it changes back and forth from rich to lean after sensor warms up about 2 minutes, i guess the better the 02 sensor is the quicker it will change from rich to lean i still have original 02 after 209 k miles headgasket went bad and all and they still work and it runs fine new ones may help though mine swithes from rich to lean but never seems to go over .7 volts on closed loop you can tell when you go into open loop at wide open throttle it stays up about .8 to .9 volts and stays there

07-23-2003, 09:17 PM
It depends on how many decimal places they go out to.