Found the cause of metal in my oil

Kurt K

Kurt K

SCCoA Member
Found the cause of metal in my oil (pics added 7/29)

It was all from the Morana adjustable double roller timing chain. If you haven't seen it, the cam gear bolts to an aluminum hub that fits over the end of the cam. The pieces are bolted together using allen head cap screws. Well these allen heads were grooving the timing cover :mad: Not only that, but the base of the hub (the part that rides next to the block) should have been rounded, because it is now.

The worse part is that I was hoping to re-use the rod bearings, but the aluminum managed to find the oil holes and grooved that crank. Now my std crank will have to be turned down at least .010" I haven't checked the main bearing yet.

Now I just need to determine the cause of the lean condition of #4 cylinder.
 
Last edited:
Well I do know guys that have been happen with Morana's stuff. I guess I should have had a different keyway machined in my cam gear to advance my cam 4°. Live and learn. I guess it's a good thing that my #4 piston got screwed up due to a lean condition otherwise the aluminum might have caused a lot of damage.
 
Dude I'm sorry for your problems, I really am.:( Live and learn.
May I suggest that you get new keys made at a machine shop to adjust your cam. DO NOT try to get new keyways cut into the crank or cam, thats not a good idea.
What was the adjustable timing setup supposed to fit, since it does not fit well on the 3.8?
 
No harm, I've been livin' and learnin' with my car for longer than most. And while being a pioneer for some of it, which gets really expensive.

I'll probably stick with the Morana, since that damage has been done.
DO NOT try to get new keyways cut into the crank or cam
Click to expand...
Don't worry, I already said "I guess I should have had a different keyway machined in my cam gear , but still good advice.

{edit} I just realized I should have said crank gear, either way, I wouldn't machine a different keyway in either the crank or the cam.
 
Last edited:
Hmmm, I think at minimum I'd be looking to get my money back from Morana, if I was in your situation...
 
Kurt, I wonder if the hub was mis-machined. I know Steve Webb has one and reported no issues:

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20042

If the hub was hitting the block enough to wear a groove in it, that could also make the bolts stick out too far and hit the cover! I guess engine would turn over pretty hard by hand if the hub was hitting the block. Have you had a chance to discuss this with Morana? I have one of these (uninstalled) and would like to know if there is anything I could look for to make sure mine is OK.
 
timing_cover1.jpg


timing_cover2.jpg


timing_chain_back1.jpg


timing_chain_back2.jpg


bearing_plate.jpg
 
Maybe at one time there was a diff in the covers, but when I ordered mine there was only one part # for the covers on both engines. Dan checked both ways for me when I talked to him and when it arrived I compaired the 2. There was no diff in them at all.
I dont know.

Looks to me that the cover will be alright, but I'm failing to see the groove in the block. Are you refering to the cam keeper plate?
If so you could get a new one and you should be fine, but I would be on the horn with Morana and send him those pics.
Somethings not right there for sure.
 
The 95+ model covers for the 3.8 and 4.2L are different, but bolts to our blocks. Before we could use one from a 3.8L taurus, and maybe other 3.8's.

I have both covers and measured the different distances between bolt holes. The numbers are in yellow.

Sc numbers are 4-7/8 and 4-1/4 inches
NA numbers are 5-7/8 and 5-1/4 inches.

So it should clear fine in an N/a front cover.

timingcover.jpg
 
I'm failing to see the groove in the block
Click to expand...
I never actually said it grooved the block, but George complicated the issue when he said:
If the hub was hitting the block enough to wear a groove in it
Click to expand...
Either way, the pictures tell the story. I'm sure I will be able to use the timing cover again, well except for the grooves in the oil pump area cause by the pieces of aluminum. That reminds me, I might need a new oil pump too, or I'm at least going to have to do some filing on the gears to get them to spin freely (there are gouges in the gears).

I'll be calling Morana later this morning and will probably point to this thread, since the 3.8 N/A timing cover theory seems plausable.

cougarsc: I know you measured a difference, but are the holes in the same orientation (i.e. 11:00, 12:30 and 4:00 positions)? I hope this makes sense.
 
I just got off the phone with Morana and he's sending me a new double roller timing chain set that was redisgned about 3 months ago to use counter-sunk screws and not the allen-head bolts. He's also going to send me a new set of bearings as soon as the machine-shop tells me how much they have to turn down the crank to get past the scratches. He want's to make it right.
 
Glad to hear Morana came thru for you.

FYI, The mounting holes are the same on the top of the block, but the water pump holes are wider on the newer cover. If you get a Felpro front cover set, they give you two water pump gaskets for both timing covers. Comparing the gaskets, the water pump surface area is larger. So , they must use a better flowing water pump, but there is no inlet for the oil cooler lines. I guess if you use a T-fitting at the bypass hose, you might be able to use the 96+ water pumps and timing cover.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top