Are my HG's safe???

Wantess

Registered User
Let me explain. I have a kinda strange intake. Silencer is gone and did away with the stock filter box and i have been using the tube coming from the TB to the MAF with a cone type filter on it. Had to shorten the tube a bit but it worked out. The cone filter i was using was a k&n "type" but not the real deal. The filter was only about 5" long and very dirty. Anyway i have had it on there for a long time and was happy with it putting out about 10 psi redline in 2nd and about 11 psi redline in 3rd. Anyway, my buddy threw me one of those foam ricer intakes (just a piece of foam with a cage around it) and i put it on. I took it for a ride and and WOW! 1st gear is mad spinning the 245/50's on the stock rims, and in 2nd at about 2K its already at 10psi, 4K is at 13psi! I was afraid to take it more than that tonight and didnt really have the strech of road to open up. My question is with my current mods listed below will my HG's be ok? With the bigger SC top and blower pully helping the hp factor will the Flomasters keep it under control for a while. I'm thinking getting rid of the cats will help. Will a resinator delete help too? Keep in mind it is Flomaster res and mufflers. By the way 57K miles with original HG's. Thanks for any input guys. Sorry kinda long, love the way my car runs now but kinda gettin worried.
 
I think the res. is the most restrictive part.
I build or 16psi on my 95 but I'm not saying your safe. Drive at your own risk.

Julian
 
The res?

Really the res is the most restrictive part? I hear/read about how the cats are worse? Are you running an X pipe or the pipes running straight back? Ive read/heard about backpressure and the res helping that? Did i waste money on the costly FLowmaster res? Sorry lots of questions but i see many diff members running diff things and wonder what works the best for them.
 
You should be fine. Get that ghetto crap out of there and get a real filter before you ingest a rock or small bird. Do a search for the Focus intake for the SOHC version. It fits pretty well and will run you less than $50 shipped to your door.

Jeff
 
I agree

Very true j57, have the number for the Focus one all you guys got and waiting to get the dough together for it. Deciding to buy motor mounts first or get the intake. But i think i should get the mounts first. But i cant argue about 2psi when it is free. Tho i will have to clean it every 100 miles. And if i nab a bird, well lets just hope it is something small like a humming. Thanks again for the advice.
 
Do the motor mounts first for sure. When I got my car it was because the motor mounts were shot and ate a hole in the high pressure power steering hose. I wasn't aware that corrugated loom would eat a hole in the oil pan, or that you could crack a oil filter from bad mounts either. So yes wait for the added blower whine and fix them mounts.

Jeff
 
the mounts

They are gonna be tough tho. With my situation i do not have access to a lift, leaves me with using a jack. I have limited automotive knowledge but i'm not very afraid of my SC having some of the top end off already. Basically im worried about getting it lined up with the jack under there and other very bad things that could go wrong. I know it can be done but i will probably be doing the job myself. I'm also worried about the whole power steering assem., and lower ic removal. Read plenty of post about it and feel confident but yet again im working solo here. I'm probably gonna get the motor/tranny combo from SCP and will be doing the job within the month. I'm sure you will see my frustrated posts when i have to tackle this. Thanks in advance, haha
 
Just got done doing my own motor mounts. Alot yourself at least two solid days of being able to work on the car without driving it to get the job done if it's your first time. Follow in others footsteps and take their advice to heart because it works. Only thing I was unsure of after I started was I almost rounded off a couple of the bolt heads using a 13MM socket which is what I read was the correct size. I switched to a 1/2" socket which fit the bolt heads much better and was able to finish the job. If you don't have them, buy yourself a set of good jackstands. Getting the bolt holes lined back up was the easiest part of the whole job. Just lowered the jack a little to just before there was pressure on the mounts. Leave all the mounting bolts loose until you get them all started. That includes the top 18MM nut for the motor mount. As long as you have a decent socket set with 6-sided sockets(not 12 sided) you should be fine. The 12 sided sockets will ruin your whole day.
 
mounts

I think you will be OK tackling the mounts yourself...I did it on my 91 solo and posted when doing the drivers side. If you take off the upper and lower IC tubes, the job is much easier. Be sure you have some U-joints and extentions for your ratchet. Not too bad of a job when its all said and done.

Aaron
 
Your very right, i take everything i hear here to heart. Everyone here has saved my but a few times over, not necessarily with a post but the forums have been very helpful. I agree with you about the 12 point sockets, they have not worked well for me with things that are torqued down very hard. I have access to a set of jack stands and i'm sure i will use them. I just have to grab some recruits to help me, I'm gonna have to bribe them with Heineken tho.
 
The problem with headgaskets is not really boost related. The root cause of the blown headgaskets is insufficient cooling. Hence the problems on Tauruses, LX's, Windstars, etc. Excessive boost will only aggravate the situation if you already have damaged headgaskets. If you have over 80K miles on your car, chances are very good that the fire rings are already split and the gaskets are on their last leg. They can go at any time for any reason, and boost level has very little to do with it.

If the gaskets have been replaced with Felpro's, then you have nothing to worry about.
 
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