View Full Version : No spark

08-01-2003, 10:15 AM
hello fellas,
yesterday on my way home from work my 89 flamed out. I was idling in 1st gear (in traffic) when suddenly the engine just died. No warning, no abnormal noise. got the car home and ran a trouble code on the brain. code 49 'spark default' is what my haynes manual tells me. but what to do from here? the ignition system is not making any spark. any help anyone? thanks.

Aaron Pedroza
08-01-2003, 10:22 AM
probably crank sensor. Relatively cheap and pretty simple to change.

08-01-2003, 11:54 AM
Hopefully that is the problem. Last night I checked the coil and replaced the DIS module with a spare. I will swap the CPS tonight. My 90 did the same thing a few years back. When I towed it to the dealer, it started right up for them (loose wires on the CPS. Wish me luck!

08-01-2003, 12:18 PM
First make sure that the Bolt in the Center of the dampner is still there, chances are that the dampner is broken.


08-01-2003, 01:46 PM
Note to self- check dampener

08-01-2003, 02:47 PM
49 in my reference is:
SPOUT signal defaulted to 10 degrees BTDC

This can be caused by either a wiring problem or a faulty DIS module. Check first to make sure the Spout connector is firmly in the harness.

Then I'd clear codes and run the car again. Assuming it will run now.

Of course, do check the harmonic balancer.

08-01-2003, 03:52 PM
'89 SC with no spark. This forum was helpful in isolating the problem. Sure enough, it was a faulty crank sensor. Unfortunately, the vehicle "died" on the way home from the garage. This time we found the harmonic balancer bolt had broken..................the mechanic says he doesn't think he'll be able to extract the broken bolt because the steel in the crank is ultra hard. Seems to me I read about the same situation in this forum. IS IT POSSIBLE TO EXTRACT THE BROKEN BOLT? The mechanic says otherwise the only remedy is another crankshaft. (Ha-Ha-Ha) Please give some good news fellas! Thanks

08-01-2003, 04:05 PM
Coupla things to try. Left hand drill bit, make sure to center punch the bolt before you start drilling. Try an EZ out or any of the stud removing tools available. Most of the time it will come out pretty easily. Try the left hand drill bit first.


08-01-2003, 06:39 PM
I'm not sure why the hardness of the steel in the crank would impact the removal of the bolt. Because it shouldn't. Make sure the mechanic knows what he is doing.

Should be very basic. It's been done by many people before.

Drill and eazy out and do it very carefully. Make sure the mechanic is comfortable with this. If not, find one that is.

Best to use left hand drill bits, as they will often get the broken bolt to start moving on their own while you are drilling.

Then use an eazy out if that didn't work.

08-01-2003, 09:48 PM
alright fellas, get this.....
I crawl under the car and feel for the bolt that secures the balancer. Not there!! I notice that the balancer worked its way off the engine about 1/8 inch, enough for the crank sensor not to function. no problem, I have a spare bolt downstairs. I go to install it then realize the bolt sheared. No problem, I can get that out..... So I pull off the balancer. something doesnt look right... the balancer sheared right where it meets the front seal!!! Gonna have fun with this one. Thanks for all the help guys. Talk to you soon.