best oil and filter??

stephens89sc

Registered User
ok well im starting with a fresh rebuild so what would be the best oil and best filter to start using for this motors life?
 
Amisol have the best products, but they'll cost you. I never used them firsthand, so I can't really say 'you get what you pay for'.
 
Mobile 1 synthetic 10w30 and Wix oil filters. (Can't say that it's the "best", but anything better is overkill)
 
The new high end performance cars come from the factory with synthetic oil, so that blows the whole break in period out the window.
 
Only problem with that oil filter study is it hasn't been updated in years. I first saw that link about 3 years ago, and the website hasn't changed since then. Still a good study for the filters theydid test, but woudl be nice to see the "upcoming" filter test results.
 
Use regular 10w30 for the first 2 changes and any filter. The first change should be done after 15 minutes of running and the 2nd change should be done at 500-1000 miles. After that, I'd recommend using a synthetic or syn. blend oil and Wix/Purolater/Hastings filter. Run away from Fram filters. I'll only use them on the first startup since they won't be on long enough for their pathetic filtering and weak bypass setup to affect the motor.

I use either Mobil dyno oil, Mobil syn blend, Mobil 1 full syn, Valvoline durablend or Amsoil in my cars. The nice thing about the Amsoil is the extended drain intervals. I'm not sure about the 25k or once a year thing, but I'm gonna try it for at least twice as long. I'm also running it in my circletrack motor (350 Chevy) that will get torn down and inspecting this winter. So I'll know how it holds up. I haven't changed it in the racer since late April and I usually change it every 4 weeks with Valvoline racing or syn blend oils.
 
Run the beetch like you stole it, no joke. Todays hones are much finer than what used to be used and it helps seat the rings better if you drive it hard. Don't keep the RPM's the same (ie driving it below 2000) use conventional for the first 2k miles and change oil frequently. Synthetic after 3000. New engines from factory are basically broken in alreday to prevent over zealous new owners from breaking stuff.

Alex
 
Just because some high performance cars come from the factory with synthetic doesn't mean it will work on a new SC engine. From what I've been told, those new cars have a different cylinder hone, and a few other differences, so that the rings will seat properly, and the seals and bearings will be OK, etc. Now maybe you could build a SC engine like that too, but I doubt most people do. So it's probably still a good idea to stick with dino oil at first.
 
use any cheap 10W30 and any cheap filter dufus, then run them for 100kms and change them to a brand name oil and Motorcraft filter for another 1000kms, then change whenever dark brown after that. Use full synthetics after oil usage stops or where it doesnt use as much. Mobil 1 synthetic from Wal-Mart, Canadian-Tire etc.

Any oil will work just like any brand tire, only if you push them hard you will notice a difference:rolleyes:
 
HSKR, yes lots of new cars come with mobil 1, however, the engines are broken in for the most part before they leave the factory.
 
ok kool thanks for the info guys i will definitaly sawitch to synthetic after my breakin period...

1 thing though... if i get synthetic ow often do i change the oil and filter?
 
The VMM is actually a good tool to use for gauging oil changes. Since you are rebuilding the motor, put in a new sensor in the oil pan. This system monitors acidity of the oil, oil temperature, peak engine rpm, and mileage. It will tell you when your oil is starting to break down. On a good engine it will put the oil change at about 3-4000 miles. This is a little long in my opinion for conventional oil, but it is great for synthetics.

Of course if you don't have a VMM or don't trust it, then go with 3000 miles. 1500 is a little ridiculous unless your name is Phil Kuhn and you only drive <200 miles/year. :)
 
my light always came on after 1200 miles so i would just wait until 1500 and change it, and that was with synthetic. It never bothered me, i just always figured it couldn't hurt anything.
 
Synthetic oil does not require a different filter; but of course if more money is being spent on the positive characteristics of synthetic a high quality filter would be logical.

Synthetic also has a greater ability to remove and suspend foreign particles & buildup in the engine, so greater filtering performance may prove beneficial for this reason.

This is actually the reason synthetic was sometimes associated with leaks on older high mileage cars that previously had used conventional oil. It would clear away deposits left in rubber gaskets/seals exposing worn areas. Modern synthetics have additives which apparently largely eliminate this problem, however.
 
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