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darkstar_one
08-04-2003, 12:27 AM
OK OK. MY DAD REPLACED THE BRAKE BOOSTER THINGY AND DID NOT REPLACE IT WITH ANOTHER ONE FROM A THUNDERBIRD. HE REPLACED IT WITH ONE FROM A MUSTANG. THE CAR BRAKES BUT IT SOMETIMES BRAKES HARD AND WHEN U HIT THE BRAKE ALL THE WAY IN THE CAR DOESNT STOP!

SHOULD I REBUILD THE OLD ABS BRAKE BOOSTER THINGY?

ANYONE TELL ME WHAT TO REPLACE ? SO I CAN GET THE ABS BRAKE SYSTEM UP AND RUNNING

Mike8675309
08-04-2003, 10:30 AM
Tell your dad to fix it since he broke it.

What year car?

darkstar_one
08-04-2003, 11:18 AM
ITS A 1991 SUPER COUPE. I STILL HAVE THE BRAKE BOOSTER THAT CAME OUT OF IT.

TbirdSCFan
08-04-2003, 05:01 PM
You can get a rebuilt unit from prior remanufacturing. Their web site is http://www.priorreman.com

What was the problem with the other unit? It might be as simple as replacing a relay and/or the black ball part know as the accumulator. These 2 parts are known to wear out and cause a loss of power assist. Also, the whole ABS unit is call the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) and a new one is very expensive, so rebuilt is the way to go.

darkstar_one
08-05-2003, 02:01 AM
WELL IMA LOOK AT THE ABS THINGY AND TRY TO SEE WHAT IS WRONG WITH IT... ILL TAKE PICS AND POST THEM UP... ILL LOOK INTO THE RELAYS AND ACCUMULATOR OF THE ABS THINGY...

darkstar_one
08-05-2003, 02:03 AM
OH... BY THE WAY.. WERE IS THAT ACCUMULATOR THINGY LOCATED IN??? ANY IDEAS ANY PICS??? TRYING TO GET MY BRAKES WORKING AGAIN...

Mike8675309
08-05-2003, 12:40 PM
If you haven't noticed already, stop using ALL CAPS. It's hard to read.


Below is a picture of the ABS master cylinder. The Accumulator is marked.

If you don't want to bolt the master cylinder back up, you'll have to re-plub the brake lines from the master cylinder your dad installed. There are too many valves in the way. you'll also need a new bias valve to set the front to rear bias.


http://www.frontiernet.net/~miketoni/images/tbird/absactuator.jpg

darkstar_one
08-05-2003, 01:15 PM
ok... the accumulator would be this big round ball with a WARNING label on it??? yes no maybe?? well let me know then

TbirdSCFan
08-05-2003, 01:24 PM
Yes. Black ball thingy with warning label. If yours has been off the car for some time, its safe to remove it. The pressure will bleed off on its own over a couple of days and thats the part that the warning pertains to. There might be a few pounds of pressure left, but nothing to freak over. Just be sure to keep some paper towels underneath if you take it off.

darkstar_one
08-05-2003, 01:38 PM
alrighty then... i will remove the accumulator... any things to look for?? signs of wear and tear? anything else i should check for?

TbirdSCFan
08-05-2003, 04:53 PM
Honestly, replacing the accumulator is a really good thing to do, but you didn't tell us exactly how the unit was acting before hand,
so I can't say with 100% certainty that it will fix your problem.
You can get a replacement accumulator from prior for about $100; call and ask, or from Ford for about $75 more. The prices change so might be more. Actually, Prior's prices have gone up a bit while Fords' have come down. I sort of prefer the Ford unit because of the ease of installation and I know that since its the OEM part, what it'll do long term, but that's me. Many people have reported good results with the Prior aftermarket unit.

In your case, I'd also spend the $25 or so on a new pump motor relay for added piece of mind. Post back if you need to know where it is.

With the unit off the car, you might want to test the motor to make sure it runs. Simple.. you just hook up a battery to some jumper cables and find a way to momentarily connect them to the leads from the motor. Do not connect the cables directly to the pins on the pump motor connector.. If you have to, go to Radio Shack and buy some alligator clips and 14 guage wire and connect the alligator clips to the pins. If you need help, take the pump with you and tell them exactly what you're trying to do. Then hook the cables to the wires off the allligator clips. This is because current (inductance if you want to get technical) can cause arcing where it makes contact.. you pit the pins on the connectors, and you'll have problems.. waste the wire, not the pins.
You can also test the pressure switch resistance (Ohms) pins 1 and 4 to be sure there are 0 Ohms between them. Thats about it.

Mike8675309
08-05-2003, 05:39 PM
Originally posted by darkstar_one
ok... the accumulator would be this big round ball with a WARNING label on it??? yes no maybe?? well let me know then

Maybe. Refer to the image above to compare. It should help you verify it.