View Full Version : Can I convert from ABS to conventional???

08-06-2003, 12:05 PM
I've tried everything... It's not the relays, it's not the accumulator, not the calipers, I've even relaced the whole unit itself twice and I cant hear the pump cut on at all... I can't break in my new heads (due to the brakes), and it's been like this for nearly 6-7 months to no avail... I've been on the border line of selling it... because I'm tired of spending money and getting no reward... This is my last resort.... [I'm happy for everyone who only had to replace the relay or accumulator, but I'm a case where the SC has me stranded in turmoil] -I'm in the Atlanta area.

08-06-2003, 05:06 PM
I'm also in the Atlanta area (Canton). Get in touch with me and I will see if we can get your brakes figured out. I'll be glad to give you hand. I never get to hook-up with any fellow SC'ers around Hot'lanta.

Larry Griggs

08-10-2003, 05:32 PM
Did you guys figure out the problem......my 91 SC has been sitting eight months!???

We rebuilt the engine in 2000. Everything worked great UNTIL! Got in the car one morning...after NO warning at all...backed out of the drive way and the brakes were gone! Pedal was hard as a rock. Checked all brake systems and found that the motor to the brake system could be rewired to make it work, so the motor is good. Unfortunately, the "rewire" doesn't exactly make the car safe. When you step on the pedal, the motor runs constantly, afraid it is going to wear out, not to mention the "rewire" melts. Husband is now talking about replacing the brake boost just under the master cylinder...what would you recommend....soooooo tired of spending money, but the car is my baby and I can't even consider selling!

Any advise would be appreciated!


08-10-2003, 09:12 PM
Unfortunately, the "rewire" doesn't exactly make the car safe. When you step on the pedal, the motor runs constantly, afraid it is going to wear out, not to mention the "rewire" melts. Husband is now talking about replacing the brake boost just under the master cylinder...

If the motor is running all of the time, it almost has to be a bad accumulator. It could be some other more exotic problem with the valving, but certainly an accumulator will cause the problem you see.

MIKE 38sc
08-10-2003, 10:35 PM
Are you saying the pump DOES NOT run unless you hot wire it?

XR7 Dave
08-10-2003, 11:37 PM
Yes, I believe that is what she said, the pump will only run if hotwired.

Most often it is the ABS relay that has gone out. The usual reason that a relay goes out is that the pump has been running too much. The cause of the pump running too much is the accumulator leaking internally. The don't last forever and need to be replaced anytime after 10 years.

So your imediate issue is to verify operation of the ABS relay. It might be easiest just to replace the relay since they are inexpensive. They are only available from Ford. If you are so inclined, you can test the relay.

Here is a related post.


If it is the relay, and you ever have trouble with it again, I suggest you look at a new accumulator (about $100 or so) since if the pump runs too much it will go out and then you are looking at a bunch more money than that.

08-10-2003, 11:42 PM
Since I'm in Dallas, I've asked debra to contact me for assistance. It wasn't clear from the statement that she'd replaced the relay or knew how to troubleshoot the ABS. That hot-wireing thing sounds totally unnecessary. Especialy since if the whole unit required replacement, prior reman is nearby.

08-11-2003, 10:04 AM
Call around to some parts houses and ask for a GP Sorensen MR-120 relay, this is a direct aftermarket replacement for the "Brown Pump" relay (ABS Pump relay). Should be less than $20.00(US).

08-12-2003, 11:03 AM
But I've replaced my relays and checked all fuses. The accum. is new, and I've tried screwing it on more than one pump... I've never heard it cut on... how do you hot wire it? I'd love to know, just so I can simply hear it work... Thanks...

08-13-2003, 06:32 PM
Has anyone done the conversion???

08-13-2003, 10:30 PM
Do you have a voltmeter? If so, check that the pump motor is getting power. You can wire 12V directly to the pump motor by getting some insulated alligator clips and 12G wire and then applying power from the battery.

The motor connector has 2 wires, Grey/Red and Grey. The Grey/Red wire is fed 12V by the pump motor relay. You can just first off check to see that the wire has 12V with the key on. Then, using your alligator clips and some length of lead wire, hook the pump motor up directly to the battery for a brief moment.

08-14-2003, 01:11 AM
yes it can be done mine had that done by the previous owner i dont like it when you want to brake hard , but in nomal driving is fine ,

MIKE 38sc
08-14-2003, 01:17 AM
I'd like very much to see a pic of that if you can. Once I figure out everything I need to swap it over I'm gonna use the Teives for a small boat anchore, a job its much better suited for!:D

03-24-2005, 08:09 PM
I just posted the info on my 1989 SC T-bird conversion. John V.O. Lethbridge AB Canada