Cylinder 6 maniford glowing?.................

S

spelch

Registered User
Exhaust maniford's glowing?.................

See Below............
 
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You could be building up serious heat in that cylinder. Chances are, the injector is shot, or you're not getting enough fuel all the cylinders, in general. Do a fuel pressure test. If it's low, your FPR, fuel pump, and/or fuel filter could need a replacing. If the fuel pressure is ok, you'll have to dig deeper, and check the injector, or do a compression test.

If you're lucky, it could be something simple, like a sensor issue.
 
Did not see the original problem post but have you checked the damper for wobbling by running the engine and looking at the crank pulley?
 
Screws up the timing since the EEC does not know the correct position (actual position) of the crankshaft. The Crank sensor triggers off the vanes on the backside of the damper. If your timing is screwed up you could be dumping raw fuel into the exhaust manifold. The elastrometric ring could also have slipped causing the same problem.
 
OK, I was just down at the shop looking at this thing, and this is whats going on:

The motor sounds and feels like it is running with retarded timing, BOTH exhaust manifolds are glowing slightly after a run, not one cyl. like i thought, it all of them. the car has a slight miss when you on the throttle, and the car is running hotter that usual. I though a timing lite on it and its showing 20 deg at idle, spout plug removal is having no efect on timing, its not dropping down to 10 deg.
Once again, NO codes, passed cylinder balance test, tried swaping out MAF, DIS module, coil pack, with no change. NO vacuum leaks, good fuel pressure,
plugs and wires are good, timing chain is tight and, cam sensor is lined up properly. I looked at the crank pully Duffy, it does have a very slight wobble to it, Any way of checking the crank sensor to see if that is the problem?
This all started when it went to the body shop, and the last day it was the body shop and the ground to the block crapped out, so it wouldn't turn over, they tried jumping it thinking it was a dead batt. , I ended up figuring out it was the ground, fixxing it and now it runns like this. Is it possible that this ground probblem screwed something up? computer? or is it just a fluk that they happened at the same time. ANy thoughts on the o2 sensors, could they be screwed up, i doubt it but you never know.
what the Frick is going on, i'm pulling my hair out, I havent driven my car in a month and a half, HELP!


Andrew
 
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The crank sensor is a Hall Effect device which is basically a switch. It either works or does not....or at the worse goes intermittent. Point being if it is not working or works intermittently the engine stops.

Crank pulley should not wobble at all. If it does that is the source of your problem since as it wobbles the timing signal is getting screwed up.
 
Well, I found the problem, Duffy sent me in the right direction. I pulled the balancer off today, which went well, except for most of the sleeve that of the balancer that slides onto the crank stayed behind, it sheered off right after the keyway on the crank, the balancer itself spun about quarter inch, which was causing my problem.
Anybody have any thought's on how I can get the rest of the sleeve off without pulling the timing cover itself off?
The remainder of the sleeve is about 1/8th of an inch after the oil seal lip, so ive got alittle to work with. Im going to pop the oil seal out right now and then go from there.
Any thought's
Anybody got a good used balancer they want to sell me?
THanks

ANdrew



P.s- Thanks again Duffy for sending me in the right direction.
 
I cant give advice on removing what the balancer left behind as I havent personally encountered it, but I will say put a BHJ on it when you get that remaining sleeve off and call it a day.

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Paul
 
Sorry you had the problem but glad I steered you right.

There really is nothing such as a "good" used damper. The hub is made from AL with a steel sleeve. After pulling and reinstallation you will most likely get a sloppy fit and the damper will break again. Mine lasted 6 monthes after a crank sensor replacement before I knew the job could be done without pulling the damper off (Thanks Dave Dalke!!!!).

Your low cost opinion is a new Ford Unit. Should last you maybe 6 years. High buck option (but none have broken or ever should since they have steel hubs) id the BHJ Unit.
 
Thanks for the help here guys, i'm confident I can get that sleeve off.
I think I am going to have to go with a new piece, can anybody around here get a good deal on one? the Ford here wants $425cnd. for one, which seems a bit steep, it would be nice to find one alittle cheaper, in or around BC, canada.


ANdrew
 
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