A/C experts (or non-experts)??

livn

Registered User
I need to replace the liquid line from the condenser to the drier (apparently the orifice tube is clogged) and the auto parts store doesnt seem to have a part number for the SC models. My car is an 89, does anyone know if the liquid line from a non sc car will work in this application, or if i can just by a new orifice tube and put it in the exsisting line?
 
Here's the part I used: Murray P/N 55610. $32 from Oreilly's but the part number is the same for Factory Air, or Everco.
The Otube is crimped into the steel part of the line, then the line is bent to shape. You can't replace it without cutting the line open. That's why most people just replace the whole thing.
Also, the liquid line goes from the condenser outlet to the evaporator inlet which sticks out of the firewall. The drier is on the evaporator outlet. If your setup isn't like that, we'd better take another look. :confused:

How did you determine that the otube was clogged and that that was all you needed to replace?

This pic is of the original line. The replacement doesn't have the soft rubber part.
 
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yea thats how my car is, i was just under the impression that the drier and evaporator were the same thing.
My ac man determined that. I had the car retro-fitted last year and a new drier and liquid line installed. About a week after that, my compressor blew so i replaced that. I then went to get the car recharged a couple days ago and i wouldnt blow cold. The guy said that it was probably because the refridgerant was not circulating most likely caused by debris (from the old compressor crappin out) stuck in either the otube or the drier. So im not sure if thats all that I need to replace, thats just the cheaper of the two and what I was told to try first.
 
If your compressor went out, then it suffered the black death. Thats where it blows chunks and particles of plastic out into the condensor and on into the liquid line. If you didn't have an inline filter installed beforehand, then the crud will get stuck in the condenser and hopefully get trapped by the screen at the Otube.

The remedy for that is usually a complete system flush, replacing the compressor, the liquid line, and the condenser. The reason for the condenser is that inside it splits into more than one path. They can't flush it and be sure its free of obstructions, so they usually replace it.

Once you open the system up, humid outside air will reach the accumulator rendering it almost useless. Thats why they replace it with a new sealed one.

You can take shortcuts such as reusing the accumulator (if you're careful to cap it off quickly) and the condenser. But if you aren't certain the condenser's clear, you may have poor cooling.
Most of the compressor manufacturers will require a liquid line, accumulator, and condenser to give you a warranty. You also need new oil, and Orings should be replaced while you're at it.

Once you have all the repair done, then it needs to be vacuumed out for 45 minutes and then charged with refrigerant.
Unfortunately, there's not a cheap solution if you want it to work well and last. Usually a poor job will get you a year's worth of cooling before the compressor goes out again.
Here's a couple of links to A/C sites which can explain it all:
http://www.ackits.com/
http://www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/

Good luck. :)
 
Thanks for the help.
So you say that the accumulater should be replaced also?? I just had a new one put in last year, then when i replaced the compressor i didnt cap it off very well so what do you think??
 
Get a new one, there no good after you break the seal even its only 1 week old. Not worth the gamble. Trust me.;)
 
I am in the process of an engine tear down and just need some info on the AC parts. I bought the car, 89 SC Auto, with the AC non-functional.

When I pulled the lines on the condensor I got a small puff of freon out, maybe about 2-3 lbs of pressure.

The hoses were full of grease so it is hard to determine if they were the cause of the leaks. A fast inspection of all parts shows no signs of contamination internally.

I am going to replace all hoses, the condensor and accumulator/dryer when everything goes back together for a R-134a retrofit.

Should I even bother with the old compressor?

How should I store the compressor?

Is 'black death' immediately obvious upon disassembly?

Can the compressor fail simply because is sits for 6-9 months exposed to air internally?

I have not seen the manifold on line, so ,is it readily available and if so how much?

Aaron
 
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