Start NO Idel

Gheez. Don't know what Is wrong can anyone HELP. I completely stripped the engine down to long block. Put it back together. Got lots a problems now and don't know where to begin.

Symptoms : Car will start but won't idel I have to keep giving it gas. If I let up on gas motor dies and won't start again unless I take out plugs or injectors and blow the cylinders out.

When I turn the ignition on every light is on Check gauges Check engine Up shift light (Car is a automatic) battery abs Heck all of them are on And there is a continous BEEEEEEEEEP that does not go away or shut off.

When I had the belts off I was turning the crank with wrench is it possible to get these cars out of time could timing be off?

Ran codes got 15c KAM power failure (power interrupt to KAM) I have been disconnecting battery is this why eec is throwing this code. Is it a more serious matter. After I clear codes and run them again. KOEO I get PASS 11 on demand sep 10 Pass 11 Kam.

Anybody anyone.

I could use some advice here.

Gonna try a new FPR everyone aruond here thinks it is getting to much GAS but I have read posts that say car should idle even with fuel pressure as low as 20 and as high as 55. Is fuel pressure that big of deal that it would cause the car to load up and flood. I have replaced everything but the Fpr and injectors.

how about the timing can you mess it up by turn the crank? I recently replaced the crank sensor. I am wondering if I screwed something up.

Could some one go turn their ignition on and see how long that Beeeep sound lasts. All warning lights are on and beep does not go off will it go off if the motor starts? I thought when I turned the ignition to on engine not running it would stay on for about 5 sec then go away. But I can't remember. When I run the KOEO test it goes off as soon as test is over it comes back on.

what do you think about the code 15c Should I quit taking the battery out of it should I leave the battery in and connected. Someone told it is good to keep taking the battery out. So the Kam can adjust itself . I keep clearing the codes with my code reader is this good or bad? THANKS FOR INPUT I need to get started some where.

Stop disconecting the battery thats what is setting code 15.
Which direction did you turn the motor in?
Cant help you with the beep my car doesnt have power right now.
Do you have the door open while youre doing the test or hearing the beep?

I turned the crank both ways to check Vane clearence. I Know I didn't get it back to where it was before.

Cool I have never used a code reader before and was wondering about that code. it is the only one Iam getting now. After i reset the kam codes and leave the battery in the code does not return.

did not have door open it is not the door chime it goes ding ding ding ding. This is a constant BEEEEEEEP. Do all gauge warning lights come on when you turn the ignition to on even the upshift light. With out the motor started.

Man its been so long since I turned my SC on I could'nt tell ya. But all my other Fords do that.
If your problem started after you tore eveything apart and then put it back together you had to have done something wrong.
Check every joint in the intake system, you could just have a vac leak.

Why did you tear everything down? Were you having problems?
If so what was wrong?

Hey MiKE38sc I knew I could count on you for some help thanks.

The Brakes ? well ever since that happend it has been setting. It has high mileage on it and I just wanted to look things over good that is when I discoverd one of the cps wires was loose. I also put a new solid motor mount in cause the junk hydrolic one ripped in half . I don't have any hose clamps on the vac lines so i was going to put some on to make sure when and if I do get it started it has a good vacume reading is good it just will not stay running as soon as I take my foot off the feed it dies after it dies it will not start at all it don't even seem to try and you can smell alot of gas . everything just seemed to go wrong all at once. CRAZY AH its just my luck .

Well lets try to figure it out.
Why dont we start at the begining.
Tell me what you took off the engine and what if anything did you do to all those parts. We will retrace things and see if we can figure it out.

I took everything off . I am going to try and get to the bottom of the prob tomorrow or this weekend. I am going to tear it down again. and start from the begining. Ever since I got a code reader I have been knocking out the codes. Now I get a system pass on both on demand and kam. so it has got to be something simple like fuel delivery or vacume. It was running good before not perfect I am expecting things to be better this time around Like gas milage since my emissions are now in order. Do to codes. I' am going to brake out the volt and ohm meters and check everything this time around. What do you think about timeing could it be out of wack i didn't think there was any way to adjust it I am under the impression that the EEC adjust it. I did notice a mark (looks like a dot white paint) on my old crank pulley where should this mark be at?

You mentioned that you replaced your crank sensor. Why?

the light blue wire had came out off the connector where it plugs into the wiring harness it has a rubber gromet where four wires go in A dark blue a red a dark blue with a orange stripe and a light blue wire this wire you could pull it in and out of the gromet.

Did the car run alright before you changed the sensor?

Yes . I had just come to the conclusion that the eec had set the time to 10 degrees to keep it running. Because I also had sensors that were failing. It was not running as good as it had in the past. that is what i am trying to achieve to get it running as good as it possibly can.

check the memory fuse in fusebox out by battery ? after unhooking battery it took mine 2 or 3 days to learn to idle right again

Thanks rlong I will take a look at it I see in my chilton it is M tan and a 5amp fuse

If the crank sensor goes out or loses connection while the engine is running the computer is able to keep the engine running for as long as you let it run. However once you shut the engine off it will not restart again until you replace it or reconect any BROKEN connections.

Is there any smoke or strange fumes when the engine is running?
Say your only getting code 11 now after running the engine?

well it is saying code 11. When i do get it started there is black smoke like it is too rich and when I pull the plugs they are black and sooty.

Ahhh.... Dont take anything apart yet. You are running rich, so you dont have any bad vac leaks if any.
Check the FPR. Pull the vac line off of it and see if gas comes out of the reg nipple.

No gas out of the nipple. very little in return line it is the original FPR do they get gummed up or cloged? That is going to be the next thing I do replace it and check injectors. What is a good FPR to go with A motorcraft A gp sorenson or napa are there any you would reccommend?

Pull that vac hose off again and turn the ignition on, If its bad gas will shoot out of the nipple.
Dont try to crank the engine, just turn on the ignition.

Thanks again Mike38sc

OK I will check tomorrow and let you know. I got to go get some sleep. later.