Do I need an alignment...

Let me ask this, since you removed the half shafts, how did you remove them? Did you remove both? Or just the one on the rear passenger side? If you correctly marked the upper and 2 lower bolts (prior to removing them) to remove the spindles, then I wouldn't think that you need an aligment. If really depends on the method that you took to out the differential and if they were marked.

Calvin
 
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Sorry, reading my previous post again it is confusing. I meant completely removing both half-shafts, and also the diff.

Well, I can't say I really knew what I was doing and just removed everything. :rolleyes: Looking at the rear, it looks like one rear tire is sticking out a little farther than the other. And no I didn't mark the bolts.

More support, when I crank the wheel hard the rear does jerk a slight bit. I thought it was just the limited slip locking slightly, or breaking in. I did use the extra friction plates instead of a couple steel ones. I didn't even think about alignment until I noticed the tire thing.

How urgent do I need to do this?

Live and learn I guess.

Thanks Calvin. I appreciate it.
Julian
 
Did you put on new axle nuts and if so what torque spec did you use? New Nuts are a must, even though the old ones look good, they will not hold the torque and 250 lb ft torque is required. Yours may be backing off and if so, will damage you bearings or the wheel could fall off. So, I think it is urgent to have it checked. I generally leave them intact when I do a diff change. But if you get vibrations then double check the drive shaft bolts (I use LokTite on them) b/c you can't get a torque wrench on them. I also loosen the trans mount & cross member and go through all the gears in a test drive, then retighten them. I haven't needed an alignment on mine b/c I do it differntly than you. Good luck
 
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T-bird4vr said:
Sorry, reading my previous post again it is confusing. I meant completely removing both half-shafts, and also the diff.

Well, I can't say I really knew what I was doing and just removed everything. :rolleyes: Looking at the rear, it looks like one rear tire is sticking out a little farther than the other. And no I didn't mark the bolts.

More support, when I crank the wheel hard the rear does jerk a slight bit. I thought it was just the limited slip locking slightly, or breaking in. I did use the extra friction plates instead of a couple steel ones. I didn't even think about alignment until I noticed the tire thing.

How urgent do I need to do this?

Live and learn I guess.

Thanks Calvin. I appreciate it.


YES you do need to get an alignment. Any time you remove part of the suspension except for the shocks and the front upper a arms you will have to get a new alignment done.
You will wear your tires out in short order if you dont get it lined up.
Julian
 
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I lock-tited the driveshaft and don't have any vibrations, even at high speed.

Can you define the axle nuts a little better. Are they the three that hold in the half shafts on each side. I want to call it the hubs, but might not be the correct term (spindles maybe). They are lock nuts. I took the half-shafts out with the (assuming) spindles on them. (Nuts and bolts through the rubber bushings).

Julian
 
T-bird4vr said:
I lock-tited the driveshaft and don't have any vibrations, even at high speed.

Can you define the axle nuts a little better. Are they the three that hold in the half shafts on each side. I want to call it the hubs, but might not be the correct term (spindles maybe). They are lock nuts. I took the half-shafts out with the (assuming) spindles on them. (Nuts and bolts through the rubber bushings).

Julian
The axle nuts are the 36mm nuts in the center of the wheel lug bolts.
 
That's what I assumed. I didn't touch them. Thanks everyone, I will get it aligned asap. But I already burt off some a good amount of tread. $50 tires anyway :D
 
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