putting 5% pulley on

daivd z

Registered User
im getting my 5% pulley this week and gonna put it on friday if it comes in. what are all the tools i need to do it and what is the procedure to do it? thanks for any info
 
Pulley Change...

You can sneak a three arm pulley puller tool...It is gonna have to sneak by the Thermastat housing, then it should come off pretty easy after it gets broken loose...If it has NEVER been off then that would be a lil tougher deal...If ya have probs, then spray the shaft down with some panther piss "Behind the pulley as well"...I think it pays to be a lil bit gentle with the snout when you do this job.

Get ya a lil anti sieze for the instal. I use a film of it on the pulley and shaft to ease the removal next time. Now I don't need a puller, it comes off with a grunt pull on the pulley...

Enjoy your newfound BOOST...


Brad
 
carefull when u tighten ur new pulley down
when I put my 5% on my new blower and tightened it the pulley actually bottomed out on the blower case!
Just tighten it until ur belts are all lined up and loctight the nut
g/l
 
I needed to remove my therostat housing to install my 5% pulley, but it was a piece of cake to install, just be easy and careful.
 
I almost ripped the thermo housing off also--then I tried tipping the pulley upwards and in and it slipped right on
 
Do NOT put any anti sieze on the pulley. If you do, it will void the warranty. Properly putting the pulley on (straight and torqued appropiately) will be sufficient for the install.

Paul
 
Is the pulley keyed on the shaft? If so, shoud a new key be used when swapping the pulley or even simply removing it to change out a seal?

And I agree, don't use anti-sieze on that part. It's an interference fit, thus the need for a puller. Corrosion shouldn't be able to get in under there if everthing is still nice and smooth.
 
i need to know what to torque the bolt to also. and should i be expecting to notice a difference in speed and wheel spinning ability.
 
If no one posts here... (I don't know it either) you might contact who you bought the pulley from and ask them. They should know, if it was SCP or BTM.
 
ive got the nut and belt off. but cahnt get the pulley off? people at autozone said i could mess up the whole thing by using a pulley puller. anybody got any segestions? i was planning on torquing it to 50 ft. lbs any help is appreciated.
 
You need to use a a 3 arm puller. It's designed to be removed by a puller, but a two arm won't spread the load sufficently. And you need to get it by the back of the pulley, don't just hook on one of the ribs.

some pullers are small enough to fit behind the metal coolant line, but many require the coolant line to be taken off.
 
is it a very delicate process? the guy at autozone made it to be a big deal that i couldnt do it without messing it up. also the tentioner, do you just use a pry bar to move the bottom pice and tighten the top bolt or is there another tool that has to be used?
 
I believe the pulley is aluminum. So you should not be careless. But it isn't difficult either.

First, the tensioner. Don't disassembly anything! You just use a 18mm socket with a long extension arm on the bolt that retains the pully to the tensioner. Press it clockwise, or towards the battery, that lifts the tensioner off the belt that you can then slip out. It's under spring tension and doesn't need to be loosened or disassembled.

Then you'll probably need to remove the coolant tube which is part of what holds the thermostat to the block. if you have never replaced your thermostat now might be a good time.

Then use a three jaw puller, hooking the jaws behind the pulley. The shaft that the pulley is on has a dip in the end so that the puller shaft can sit centered in it. Then using a wrench crank the puller down until the pulley starts to move. You might need a longer handle than a standard socket wrench to get it moving, but it will start to come off. Just take your time and make sure the arms don't slip off.

i'll be doing mine as soon as I track down a new thermostat.
 
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i took the tentioner off by takin out the top bolt. it appeared to mess up the spring loader. do i need a new tentioner now or is there a way to fix it. the belt is tentioned and the bolt torqued to 50 ft. lbs. will that hold? i torqued the SC bolt to 50 ft. lbs is that to much or to little?
 
Post a seperate question on the tensioner. gldiii or others should know about that. Now you know the right way to do it.

The pulley turns the direction of the fastener so I guess I would torque it to "tight enough". If 50 felt "tight enough" then it should be good. No one seems to know the spec on that one. If you are really concerned call the guy you got the pulley from. He should be able to find out.

Did you replace the woodruff key? That key should get replaced when replacing the pulley.
 
daivd z said:
what is a woodruff key and where can i get one and for how much?

woodruff key is what keeps the pulley "locked" to the shaft, its the keyway. A package of assorted sizes can be had for <$5 at advanced auto parts in the "HELP" section, i'm sure other stores carry it too, just choose the size you need.
 
The pulley turns the direction of the fastener so I guess I would torque it to "tight enough". If 50 felt "tight enough" then it should be good. No one seems to know the spec on that one. If you are really concerned call the guy you got the pulley from. He should be able to find out.

You will never be able to torque the pulley to the recomended specs, at least not without have the blower off the car and in the proper jig with the shaft locked in place. When properly installed, it will look like the pic attached.

I wouldnt worry much about the woodruff key. If it looked to be in good shape and the pulley went on well, then leave it be. You will tear the pulley apart before the key since the aluminum is softer.

Paul
 

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The recommended torque is?

Hmm, my pulley has a machined area for a wrench to fit on to hold it still on the shaft while torquing the bolt. Is that not the on most of the aftermarket pullies?
 
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