Boost guage replacement

HSKR

Registered User
Has anyone replaced the boost guage in teh dash with an aftermarket one, but kept the factory location?? Not sure what it would take to mount an aftermarket guage in factory location, or if it's even possible.
 
A few have, here is a pic of mockup work I started a few months ago.......
 

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Paul I like that idea, replacing that idiot stock NORM temp guage with a true temperature guage.
I don't trust the one that comes with the car.
 
Paul:

How much cutting did you have to do to get those in?

Or does a 2-1/6" gauge fit in the stock location?

I really like the idea, heck you may even be able to use the stock wiring.
 
Yeah, I'm deifinitely interested in swapping guages, too. Does it require and dremel grinding? Can you use the stock wiring?
 
About 15-20 minutes each with the dremel if you are a perfectionist. You just have to round out the bottom part of the hole and the gauges slip in with a nice compression fit keeping them snug in place. You must use the sending units that come with the new gauges, though its not a big deal to do so. I do not recall if the check gauge light comes on when the oil gauge is removed from the cluster, but if it is, just ground the wire that went to the factory sending unit and you are good to go. I intend to eventually finish up a cluster like what I posted above and then sell it, since I have taken a liking to a different brand of gauges now. That coupled with the fact that Autometer absolutely would NOT work with me at all in making a custom gauge face or provide basic info on how to cut open the gauge without damaging it turned me off bigtime. I was willing to give them the faces and just have them apply them during assembly instead of the standard face and no way no how would they do it even though I was willing to void the warranty if need be. Anyway, enough of my rant, here is a pic of the fuel gauge to, however, you will note the bottom of the gauge sits behind the plastic a bit and I had to notch the bottom for the gauge to seat fully flat which leaves a gap. Doesnt matter much since its not visible when installed. Also, the outer gauges sit with the bezel slightly over the idiot lights. I intended upon replacing those strips with something more asthetic to the design using LEDs and custom silkscreening. Oh well, another project on the back burner.

Paul

<edit> More details on the outer gauges. I installed them with a centerline that accounted for a 3 3/8" speedo and tach. This was the cause for them coming into the idiot light area. The centerline of the hole can be successfully raised a bit and cause less if any interference with the covering of the idiot lights as seen in the pic. You will have to carefully measure though as the bezel will only cover up a small open area leaving little margin for error.
 

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I've been wanting to do this for a long time but haven't had the funds and AutoMeter hasn't come out with the Speedo/Tach/Fuel Gauge in C2 or Cobalt yet... Won't the fuel gauge work with the stock sender?
 
BT Motorsports said:
About 15-20 minutes each with the dremel if you are a perfectionist. You just have to round out the bottom part of the hole and the gauges slip in with a nice compression fit keeping them snug in place. You must use the sending units that come with the new gauges, though its not a big deal to do so. I do not recall if the check gauge light comes on when the oil gauge is removed from the cluster, but if it is, just ground the wire that went to the factory sending unit and you are good to go. I intend to eventually finish up a cluster like what I posted above and then sell it, since I have taken a liking to a different brand of gauges now. That coupled with the fact that Autometer absolutely would NOT work with me at all in making a custom gauge face or provide basic info on how to cut open the gauge without damaging it turned me off bigtime. I was willing to give them the faces and just have them apply them during assembly instead of the standard face and no way no how would they do it even though I was willing to void the warranty if need be. Anyway, enough of my rant, here is a pic of the fuel gauge to, however, you will note the bottom of the gauge sits behind the plastic a bit and I had to notch the bottom for the gauge to seat fully flat which leaves a gap. Doesnt matter much since its not visible when installed. Also, the outer gauges sit with the bezel slightly over the idiot lights. I intended upon replacing those strips with something more asthetic to the design using LEDs and custom silkscreening. Oh well, another project on the back burner.

Paul

<edit> More details on the outer gauges. I installed them with a centerline that accounted for a 3 3/8" speedo and tach. This was the cause for them coming into the idiot light area. The centerline of the hole can be successfully raised a bit and cause less if any interference with the covering of the idiot lights as seen in the pic. You will have to carefully measure though as the bezel will only cover up a small open area leaving little margin for error.

What's the easiest way to feed the sender wires through the firewall, into the dash behind the cluster?
 
The fuel gauge (if you get the proper one) will work with the stock sending unit, however my post was directed toward the water and oil which were prior to my mention of fuel.

I've been wanting to do this for a long time but haven't had the funds and AutoMeter hasn't come out with the Speedo/Tach/Fuel Gauge in C2 or Cobalt yet

Why not use blue LEDs? They will look quite similiar to the Cobalt or C2 gauges.

As for running the wires through, I like to drill holes:D 10 years of doing stereo systems has made it 2nd nature, but you should be able to find a boot with an existing harness that will let you run the 2 signal wires (they don't have to be heavy gauge) through.

Paul
 
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