Brake system bleed

Digitalchaos

Registered User
Approx. how much fluid is required to bleed the entire '93+ brake system?

Is there any special procedure to follow besides opening the bleeder valves from the farthest wheels first & applying the brake pedal?

Thanks.
 
Not sure on the quantity of fluid but to do the bleed you have to have a special tool that plugs into the system to make the pump run while bleeding.
 
Shoot, didn't notice it was 93+, what I posted was 89-92. I'll leave it hear, but everyone keep in mind it is for 89-92!


With Antilock Brakes

FRONT BRAKES
The front brakes can be bled in the same manner as conventional brakes, with or without the accumulator being charged.

REAR BRAKES

If the pump motor is allowed to operate continuously for approximately 20 minutes, a thermal safety switch (inside the motor) will automatically shut off the motor. A 2 to 10 minute cool down period is typical before normal operation can resume. Exercise care when opening the rear caliper bleeder screws, due to the high pressure available from a completely charged accumulator at the bleeder screws. Serious injury may result if care is not taken.


Bleeding w/Accumulator Charged
  1. With accumulator pressure applied to the system, bleed rear brakes by opening rear brake caliper bleed screws for 10 seconds at a time while applying brake pedal with ignition switch in Run position.
  2. Repeat step 1 until air-free flow of brake fluid is observed at each caliper.
  3. Close bleed screws, then pump brake pedal several times.
  4. Adjust brake fluid quantity in reservoir to MAX level with accumulator fully charged.
Bleeding w/Pressure Bleeder
  1. Attach Rotunda bleeder No. 104-00064, or equivalent, to reservoir cap opening and apply a minimum pressure of 35 psi to system.
  2. With brake pedal at rest and ignition switch in Off position, open rear caliper bleed screws for 10 seconds at a time.
  3. When an air-free flow of brake fluid is observed at each caliper, close bleed screws and turn ignition switch to Run position.
  4. Pump brake pedal several times, then adjust brake fluid quantity in reservoir to MAX level with accumulator fully charged.=
 
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Duffy Floyd said:
Not sure on the quantity of fluid but to do the bleed you have to have a special tool that plugs into the system to make the pump run while bleeding.
Does the 93 have the Teves IV and thus the tool is required? Teves II only requires that the key be turned on.
 
I found this about the Teves IV system:

Teves Mark IV.

Standard non-ABS manual or pressure-bleeding methods can be used for this system. Unlike the Teves Mark II system, the accumulator of the Mark IV system must be depres-surized
before bleeding the rear brakes. The bleeding sequence varies for different years, makes,and models.

Proper bleeding for these systems consists of first manually bleeding the base brakes, then bleeding the hydraulic control unit, and finally repeating a manual base brake bleeding sequence.

Refer to manufacturers’ recommended brake-bleeding procedures for these systems.
 
Ad if you go to the Ford Shop Manual it tells you to bleed the Brake Master Cylinder and ABS Hydraulic Control bracket you have to use the Ford T90P-50-ALA ABS Test Adapter or air will be trapped in the ABS Hydraulic Control Bracket which will lead to a spongy pedal.

On EBay you see a Thexton tool which does the same thing as the above mentioned special tool sold often for less than 29 bucks. Search on Teves ABS and you should be able to find one.
 
Does having air in the system present any possibility for damage?

Also, this does not look like a procedure that I would want to attempt by myself at this time having no experience. I have had my mechanic bleed the system before, but I do not believe they've done it this way.

Therefore, are there any well known shops that can be trusted with doing something like this? I would prefer to avoid the dealer, and I guess I am asking mainly about a chain store (such as Midas) due to geographic reasons. What does a procedure like this usually cost?

Thanks again for the help everyone..
 
Well, you now at least have a basic understanding of what needs to be done. Print it out, and call around, asking very specific questions about how they intend to bleed the brakes. Make it clear to them that you have had others fail at doing so and you want to make sure they will do it properly.

Surfing the web finds that there are many classes that mechanics can attend that describe the unique characteristics of the 6 or 7 different varieties of automotive anti-lock brakes. They all are slightly different in how they must be done. So certainly there must be mechanics that know how to do it. just make sure they understand they need to apply this knowledge.

If the shop takes offense at your questions then that's not the shop to go to.
 
Lol.. after presenting the problem to most of the shops in my area and informing them of the tool needed to bleed the HCU, they said it requires a special breakout box to bleed & only Ford is able to do this.

So I approached the dealer (quoted 80 dollars) and they do not know if they have the tool any longer.

Since I want to ensure all air is correctly removed from my brakes, and nothing else is damaged in the process, I would like to do this myself if possible. Therefore, who has acquired one of these Thexton tools from eBay that knows if it works? And is there a similar unit that is known to work available?

I will be following the procedure in the Haynes manual which says to connect the breaker box, activate it, then bleed as normal. Specifically, it calls for a "Rotunda Anti-Lock breakout box Bleeding adpater part # T90p-50-ALA".

Thanks for any info..
 
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