not impressed

nitrouspaul

nitrouspaul

Registered User
I put eibachs and konis on my car and the handling is not what I expected. I have Nitto 555 18 inch rims and tires as well and the cornering is a bit better as is the overall ride quality provided I do not put the shocks on full firm. Found best ride and handling to be full firm in front and 3/4 firm out bac, but the question still needs to be answered. What next. I can't quite keep up to 911 turbo on the offramps at 180.

Help.....
 
Not sure what help we can provide then....

I don't think much of anything will keep up with a Porche 911 Turbo going 180 on exit ramps.....

Having said that, you may want to look into "other" suspension mods, like the biggest fattest anti-roll bars you can get from Addco and chassis stiffeners along with Polyurethane bushings.

But at this point in your modifications of the suspension, the biggest improvement is often realized from shock and spring mods.

You may want to look into getting some sort of custom springs made for your car that will be stiffer than the Eibach ones and lower the car even more. Remember the Eibach springs are a "pro-kit" they are designed to lower the car about 1.5" all around and are still progressive rate to provide a decent ride when traveling at low speeds, but crank the car into some hard turns and the tighter wound coils will stiffen up the suspension.

OH, and install some All wheel drive, and drop 900lb from the car at the same time, and don't forget a FULL on BALLS-TO-THE-WALL Coy miller Stage II build up on your engine and I think you'd be able to keep up with the Jones's Porche 911 Turbo. :)
 
Dude, are you talking 180 mph, kph, or 180º turns. Don't scare the piss out of me and tell me its 180º.

Alex

BTW, the "º" is made holding alt down while typing 167 on the number pad and letting alt go on pc's
 
I agree with Damon. Bought Suspension Tech springs because they are not progressive. Got the largest ADCO bars to try. Got the poly bushings and shocks. Now just need to put them all on. I am a little concerned about becoming a drifter, but bigger tires should stop that.

Good luck!
 
I would agree. Shocks are for dampening, they don't do everything.

Different springs would have suited you more if you were looking for a stiff ride. And certainly for stronger cornering you are going to need bigger anti-roll bars.

If you really want to just try to keep up with that Porche, go full out. But remember, ride quality will suffer tremendously if you go to the biggest roll bars you can find.
 
Not knowing your background and experience Paul, forgive me if this sounds facetious ... but how about spending $500 CAN or so on a good performance driving school, if you haven't done that sort of thing in the past ?

I remember wailing up off-ramps past all kinds of cars with my old Fox-chassis mid-size Marquis wagon that had only a rear stab. bar added, and a good set of 16" wheels and tires ... the big part of it was having an idea what to do, a bunch of laps at various tracks helped me out a lot !! :)

Fine-tuning the spacer between the seat and the steering wheel will make the most improvements for handling on just about any car. ;)


cheers
Ed Nicholson
SCCoO
 
Gee, Ed, for a moment I thought you were addressing me lol. I should attend some instructional driving as well though.

Paul
 
I've always found that the biggest jump in handling was in the tires.

You didn't say what width you're running. I've got the stickiest tires I've ever owned on mine - BFG TA 255/45/17 ZR.

Next would be bigger sway bars. With an understeering car like the SC, the rear should be bigger than the front.

Then the lowering springs can be a trade-off. If you want liveable hyway ride, you've made the right choice. If you want max handling under all conditions, then the ST's are better.

There's always debate about the shocks. I like the Koni's myself for best handling.

Also because of understeer, a front tower brace.

Poly bushings front and rear to finish it up.

For any kind of performance improvement - LOSE WEIGHT! :eek:

There's more, but most people aren't willing to drive around in a car wearing a kidney belt or climbing in over a rollcage. :p

Lee
 
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One point of debate...

Not sure of the exact numbers but the eibach pro-bit springs are actually the "stiffest" springs for the SC. Someone posted the advertised spring rates in lbs one time and at that time the Eibachs still rated the highest.

Unfourtunatly the max spring rate is only realized at near maximum compression.

Where as with the lower rated Suspension Techniques Linear rate spring the max spring rate is felt all throughout the spring's compression range.

Also cutting a linear rate spring will increase it's spring rate, right?

The eibachs feel "soft and floaty" to some due to the fact that the first couple of inches of compression are basically a stock spring rate, but continue to push and they'll hold firm.

However, I will agree with Ed on this one. Invest a few $$$ in a driving school where you can learn about vehicle handling dynamics and get your rocks off at the same time.
 
thanks for all the input guys. I shall take everything under advisement. Now If I could only get th front end down another inch or so.I am not quite pleased with the stance.
 
nitrouspaul said:
Now If I could only get th front end down another inch or so.I am not quite pleased with the stance.
Click to expand...

Cold cut those puppies, on the soft ride end, if possible. Springs that is. They do it out here at the track all the time rather than buy new ones.
 
Hey, not sure who has improved their product and who has not....

This was going back a couple of years ago, at that time, there was still a couple of manufacturers who had springs available. Eibach, Suspension Techniques, Jamex, etc.

There was a side to side comparison of V-6 N/A springs vs. SC and V-8 sport springs and then side to side comparisons of the aftermarket manufacturers spring rates.
 
ST springs

it's nice to finally see talk on the ST springs. I remember last year when I first got my pearl 94 and was looking into mods and suspension no one even heard of ST's when I saw them on ebay and all argued against them. Then the motor blew a few weeks after owning her and nothing was ever done. Now engine is being done next weekend and figured I'd lower at same time. Now crossed between buying the ST spring and shock setup for 330 total, at 1.5 drop, and the tokico spring and shock (hp series) setup for 370 total, at 1.25 drop. Either way not enough drop just to get it the way the factory should of int he first place, if I'm spending money to lower, I wan it to look lowered ya know. So I'm cutting the springs a bit to attempt to acchieve a 2 1/4 front and 1 3/4 rear (slight rake, and will probobly even out anyways once system is put in trunk). Live in upstate NY so roads are terrible, but I like to drive hard so which would you guys recommend. Also if anyone knows the exact amount of coil to cut to achieve requested ride hieght let me know, appreciate all the help guys.
 
You guys do realize that cutting springs,especially aftermarket ones,will KILL your ride quality and possibly weaken the spring causing it to break.They're just not made for that. I cant speak for the ST springs but I put Eibachs on mine with Tokico Illuminas and achieved a 2 in drop. Handling was very good ,but like most I wanted more. So on went the ADDCO bars and poly bushings. I now cant imagine the car getting any better as far as responsive handleing AND decent ride. Of course a good alignment after all that is necessary to make it all come together.
 
thanks for the reply, but several arguements have have already been discussed here in the forumns, and reguardless of opinion, spring cutting is perfectly safe and effective, 10 years ago I use to be a union elevator installer, talking critical anal intentive issues, but anyways, spring ratios and cutting were a common factor and completley safe. It's been far too long to remember the formulas and live out of state now so dont even keep in contact in old work friends. So if anyone knows the amount of spring to cut for my desired height, or can list thier cut amount and achieved drop, then I'd have a better idea, also opinions on which would be better for my aplication of ST or Tokico, roughly around same price on deals, so undecided.
 
Whether or not you cut your springs is up to you, but one thing to keep in mind is that if you use progressive rate springs they are NOT designed to be cut wheter it breaks or not.By cutting it you are changing the aspect of the spring.You also need to cut at least one full coil so that the ends of the spring will sit in its detents on the strut properly.I work in an aftermarket accessory shop and I've seen more than one person ruin (and break) springs on anything from Hondas to BMWs by cutting them.9 times out of 10 they buy new ones because they are not happy with the results of cutting, done properly or not.Just my 2 cents.Dont want to see someone ruin their springs and have to fork over dough to get new ones thats all.
 
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