need tranny info

Randy N Connie

Registered User
I am in my second day of trying to get the trans to bolt up.
I think that I have tried just about every thing but forceing
it on with the bolts.

All my life I have stayed away from autos.

I have tried to get it on with the converter,with out
the converter,I beleive I have the converter all the
way in the pump.

Is there a different way I need to hold my mouth.

Or is this just some more of the SC bullsh*t.

And to top it off, the dam motor and trans is out of the car.

Thanks getin pist
 
1. Tighten converter drain plug to 11-38 N-m (8-28 lb-ft).

2. Position the converter on the transmission, ensuring the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear by rotating the converter.

CAUTION:
Lubricate pilot with chassis grease.

3. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission to the jack with a chain.

4. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with the holes in the flywheel.

5. Align the orange balancing marks on converter stud and flywheel bolt hole if balancing marks are present.

6. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter face must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.

NOTE:
Before installing the torque converter to the flywheel retaining nut, a check should be made to ensure that the converter is properly seated. The converter should move freely with respect to the flywheel. Grasp the stud. Movement back and forth should result in a metallic clank noise if the converter is properly seated. If the converter will not move, the transmission must be removed and the converter repositioned so that the impeller hub is properly engaged in the pump gear.

7. Install transmission housing-to-engine retaining bolts. Tighten to 55-68 N-m (40-50 lb-ft).

8. Remove the safety chain from around the transmission.

9. Install a new O-ring on the lower end of the transmission filler tube. Insert the tube in the transmission case and secure the tube to the engine with the retaining bolt.

10. Connect the speedometer cable to the extension housing.

11. Connect the oil cooler lines to the RH side of transmission case. Tighten lines to 16-24N-m (12-18 lb-ft).

12. Position the crossmember on the side supports. Position the rear mount on the crossmember and install the retaining bolt and nut.

13. Secure the engine rear support to the extension housing and tighten the bolts to specification. Refer to «Group 03» for Specifications.

14. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.

15. Secure the crossmember to the side supports with the retaining bolts and tighten to 95-136 N-m (70-100 lb-ft).

16. Connect the TV linkage cable to the transmission TV lever. Connect the manual linkage cable to the manual lever at the transmission.

17. Install converter-to-flywheel retaining nuts. Tighten to 27-46 N-m (20-34 lb-ft).

18. Install the converter housing access cover and secure it with the retaining bolts. Tighten to 16-22 N-m (12-16 lb-ft).

19. Secure the starter motor in place with the retaining bolts. Connect the cable to the terminal on the starter. Connect the neutral start switch harness at the transmission.

20. Slide driveshaft into transmission.

21. Raise differential housing with axle stand and install bushings and retaining nuts. Tighten to 92-136 N-m (68-100 lb-ft). Remove axle stand.



22. Tighten differential assembly rear retaining nuts to 165-211N-m (122-156 lb-ft).



23. Position vent tube in hole of subframe.

24. Align driveshaft yoke and companion flange and install retaining bolts. Tighten to 95-129 N-m (70-95 lb-ft).

NOTE:
Lubricate the yoke splines with Premium Long Life Grease C1AZ-19590-E (ESA-M1C75-B) or equivalent.



25. Install catalytic converter assembly.

26. Install exhaust pipe and muffler assembly.

27. Install body reinforcement.

28. Lower vehicle and fill the transmission to the correct level with the specified fluid. Start the engine and shift the transmission to all ranges, then check the fluid level. Refer to «Transmission Fluid Level Check» .

29. Adjust the manual shift linkage as required. Refer to «Section 07-05».
30. Adjust TV linkage, as outlined.
 
If this trany was not on that engine before, there are a couple of Qs that need to be answered first.
Did the engine have a 5 speed trany before? If so, see if there is a pilot bearing still located at the back of the crank. If so, you will need to remove it before the TC will go in.
Do you have to many alignment pins between the engine and the trany? When separating, some stay in the engine and others will stay in the bellhousing.
When the TC is fully engaged, it will not extend past the front edge of the bellhousing. Good luck

Yes 93s and 90s will bolt together.
 
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vancouverBC I am just switching a 1990 auto out and putting in a 1993
auto & converter.

The pin are all ok.

The torque conveter is fully ingage in the pump.

I am afraid this tranny **** is going to be the straw thats going
to brake the camels back.

The only thing that is good about this SC is the mn12 body.

I have the motor out and the trans out of the car.I am
having a hard time beleiving that I cannot get it together.

IT should just go together but it will not.I am not a stupid
kid,but this car makes me feel like one.I have changed 20
trannys.But not auto trans.I hate auto trans.

randy
 
Having problems Randy?
There are only 2 different bellhousings on AOD's.
1. 3.8-5.0 same pattern for all years.
2. 351W and up same pattern for all years.
So thats not your problem. There are 2 things to look at here.
1. The torque converter may not be engaging into the pump. I know it may look like it is but in fact it may not. Try pushing the converter in while you turn it until it drops into the pump.
2. The torque converter may not be engaging the crankshaft pilot hole.
Since youre not sure what is causing this I recomend that you try installing just the converter onto the flexplate first to be sure it is engaging the pilot shaft hole in the crank. This should be an easy fit. You should not have to force it.
Once you have established that the converter fits the flexplate and crankshaft the problem has to be the converter is not engaging the pump.
Randy is this a new torque converter?
If so what kind?
If it is used that may well be the problem.
I cannot reinstall my old torque converter because it will not allow the engine and tranny to mate up. It holds them about 1/2" apart.
My old converter is ballooned and that could be your problem if you are using an old converter.
 
MIKE38 I have done all that you mentioned.
I got the trans and converter from Chris wise.
the converter is used .I cannot see any thing
wrong with it.looks brand new.

The only thing that I have not tried is putting
the old converter in that came with the car.
I will do that in the morning.

If that does not work I am done with the car.

randy
 
Put a straight edge accross the front of the bellhousing, and messure the distance to th flat on the converter where the studs are that bolt up to the flex plate. If it is less than 3/4 of a inch it is not engaging in the pump. Another way is to chalk the flats on the conveter where it is supposed to engage the pump, and also the splines of the trans input shaft. If it is going in all the way, you will have aproc 3/4 of a inch of engagement on the splines. Any less, and you are not getting into the pump all the way.

I have had a few that were VERY stubborn, and had to pick the trans up with engine hoist, and let the tail shaft sit in a bucket. This allowed a snug converter to slide into the pump. Good luck.
 
MIKE 38 I didn't have the flex plate off.This torque converter
was not used but a few miles,Its allmost new.
THE pin will engage the back of the motor it just lack about
3/8 of an inch or less of going on.It has to be that the converter
is not all the way in the pump.But I just can't get the converter
any farther into the tranny.This car is a a$$hole on every thing.
except getting my money..I will go out in the morning ,And it
will just fall together.I will get some matches out in the morning
and thretin to burn it,and it will go to gether then.

randy
 
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Randy are you saying that when you try to install the converter to the flexplate that the coverter will not slide into the crank and you have a 3/8" gap.

What I'm getting at here is you should be able to mount the converter to the flexplate and not have a gap of 3/8" between the flexplate and the mounting bosses on the converter.
The bosses should just set down on the flexplate without any force needed.
Are you sure that can be done?:confused:
 
MIKE the torque converter will bolt up to the flex plate.

I just am not able to get it in the tranny it looks like.

I think I just need to threatin it and a swift kick in the morning
will do.

I need to get some tranny fluild I spilled most of what i had in
the converter messin with it.So I am going to dump the rest out
put it back together.Then I need to find some fluild,to put in it after
I get the converter back on .What is a good brand to buy.

I guiess that it would be ok to bolt the converter back on with no fluild in it


RANDY
 
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Oh...OK...I was thinking you werent sure what was preventing it.
Those converters can be a &*%^$ to get into the pump sometimes. Youre right though. I have found that sometimes you just have to call it a day. In my younger days my favorite anti stubborn tool was a 5Lb short handle sledge.:mad:
I spent countless hours scrounging around in junkyards because of it too.:eek:
Yes sir.....Beat several small block Chevy's into submission with it!:D
See Chevy's are good for something........Anger Managment!!!:D ;)
 
Randy try spinning the converter while applying pressure..Usually that will fully place converter in tranny pump...Also..Check new tranny to see if perhaps a dowel pin is stuck in there...Also when bolting trany and motor together you will need to get converter studs to go into holes in flexplate..Otherwise it will never bolt together..Goodluck
 
Thanks DAMON i have did all that I just havent got
mad enough at it yet.It will go together in the morning.

Mike ,Is it ok to put the converter back on with no fluid
in it .I had some in it but spilled it out trying to get it on.
And what is the best fluid to buy.

THANKS RANDY
 
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You don't need any trany fluid until you get it in the car and ready to test. Any brand of Mercon ATF is ok, you'll need 12qts to fill the whole trany & TC, I buy it in bulk b/c its a lot cheaper that way. When the TC has fully engaged the pump, it spin freely. I would get a new filter & gasket for the new trany too, before you put in the fluid. Good luck
 
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Well I went out to the shop this morning.Kicked the tranny
and it went right on.had it bolted up in 10 minutes.:D

I now like my SC again

randy
 
Isnt it strange how things work out that way after you leave them alone for awhile?
Glad to know I'm not the only one that goes through this.:)
This kind of thing is why 50% of the time I get very little done.
I had one of those days yesterday. I went to replace the O2 sensor in my truck and while under there I noticed the solenoid on the starter was not connected to the starter any longer. Strange...I never had any indication there was a problem.
Anyway I droped the starter and bolted the solenoid back on and reinstalled the starter.
I thought Ahhhh everythings fine now.

I then proceeded to mow my lawn and everything was fine till I went in the house to have a bite.
When I went to start the mower all I got was ..click.....click....Hmmmmm I thought.
Turned out the starter bearings on the mower were dry and dirty so it just locked up.
I then tore it off and tore it apart cleaned it up inside and lubed everything. Worked like a charm then.

I swear sometimes I think all my mechanical devices get together somehow and conspire against me. LOL!!!
It just happens far too often for it not to be the case. Now if I could just catch them having such a meeting I'll fix them!!LOL!!!
 
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