Rear Brakes

JLNeon

Registered User
I'm just curious... I just took my "new" SC to a shop and they discovered that the rear brakes are completly locked up and the rotors are pitted.

It seems to brake just fine right now, is it going to be really important to replace those? They're locked in the "open" position, so they're not wearing down anything.

BTW, they wanted $800 for new rear brake calipers, rotors and fluids.
 
With a 3800lb car, you need rear brakes. It may brake OK for now, but you're putting extra wear on the front brakes, and if you ever have to stomp on it, the rear could fly around on you. The rear caliper pins on these cars are known to rust up and cause sticking brakes. $800 sounds a bit high for the job, but if its a shop and NEW parts, it might be in-line. If you're mechanically inclined, you might just dissassemble and repair them yourself. It would entail removing the pins and calipers (could be a challenge if they're rusted), new pins, new boots, rebuilding the calipers, new rotors (if they can't be turned), new pads (maybe the old ones are still good?), reinstalling the parts, and bleeding the brakes. All-in-all, maybe the $800 isn't that bad as this can be a tricky job especially if any of the bolts snap off :eek:
 
Yuck.

Also, all the shocks / struts are shot I guess, I didn't notice, it rides 300% better than my neon did (lowered) So I'll just go without that, but I guess the brakes are pretty important.

I thought it stopped pretty good, can't wait to get that repaired... stop on a dime! :)
 
You can replace them yourself. You will need basic tools along with a good bench vise, propane torch, a good sized hammer (2lb dead-blow is better), and a barrel brush for a .357 magnum (about $1.50). Also, a rotor tool is nice to have (to turn the pistons back in) for about $5-$8.

The pins can be a pain to get out, but they will come out.
spray with a good penetrating oil and let sit few a day or two.

Mount the caliper bracket in the vise such that the pin is facing down. Select a wrench (make sure it's cheap your going to beat on it) that fits over the pin shaft but not the head. Heat the bracket and use the wrench to allow you to beat the pin out of the bracket. You may need a couple of heating cycles to get it out. It took a couple of heating cycles and a small fire from the penetrating oil to get mine out.

Once you have the pins out cut the tapered portion of the barrel brush off. Chuck it up in a hand drill and clean out the pin bores. Use plenty of oil to lubricate the brush.

Don't reuse the pads (not worth it for less than $50), get new pins (Autozone has them) and boots. Use caliper pin grease to re assemble. If you get a harware kit, the boots, new caliper bolts, and lube comes in it for about $10.

The old rotors may be warped from getting pressur efrom one side only, so definately get them turned to check.

I did all new rotors, pads,one set of pins, hardware, enough fluid to flush, and a new brush (didn't want to use the cut brush on my barrel) for under $300. You can save a lot by doing it yourself.


Aaron
 
Aaron, you are the man!

Thanks for the instructions, that is a big relief to know that I can get away considerably cheaper!

I'm saving these in a word doc for when I get around to doing this.

Thanks again!
Kyle
 
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