5sp fluid red line D4 stuff

ricardoa1

Registered User
Well I just got done with my 5spd rebuilt this last weekend, It was $100 in parts (four syncros, a plate and seal)
then $350 to have rebuilt locally. All in all not bad considering most people are getting them sent out and paying 600+ to southern gear and such.
I also installed my new aluminum flywheel, aluminum driveshaft, and aluminum rear end with 3.08 gears.
So drivetrain is ready to go.
All I need to know is If I use this Redline stuff D4 ATF. do I need to use friction modifier or not and if I do choose to use it will it hurt more than help.
 
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I believe the only reason you use friction modifier is for the clutches in the rear diff...i dont believe you use it for a 5spd tranny..Alex L.. i just kinda did the same with mine just i used mobil 1 ATF synthetic

recent things done
undercoated the firewall back
installed
Rebuilt tranny with brass syncros
solid rubber motor mounts
Inland Empire alum driveshaft
Battery Relocation with polished optima holder box
Optima Battery Dual post
Stinger 0 gauge For battery relocation
Spec aluminum flywheel
Spes stage 3 clutch kit with lightened pressure plate
new starter, coil pack,slave cyclinder
gutted most of interior
made custom dash cluster with 11 autometer gauges
added dual APC fire extingushers
stereo relocation to lower compartment
had the FFRP aluminum rear diff already with 3.73
just ordered
poly crossmember bushings
poly rear shock non ARC, for when i get konis..

Future plans...WAY, WAY TO MANY................
 
Not sure what fluid to recommend...

But I was reading on Redline's web site and their advice on manual transmissions was NOT to get a fluid that was TOO slippery because it would prevent speedy gear changes due to the fact that the friction coefficient of the syncros would drop.

Although I have trouble envisioning the transmissions operation, I understand that it is the syncros job to slow gears down quick and efficiently to mesh with each other without gear clash.

So in my mind, I kinda think of syncros as minature "brakes" made of friction material. This is the reason why folks who have "upgraded" to brass syncros often complain of slower shifting than stock. The reason for this is metal to metal coefficent of friction is much lower than that of regular friction materials.

If metal to metal friction was good, then manufacturers would use steel brake shoes. They'd last a long time. If anyone has ever worn their brakes down to the backing plates and tried to stop, it takes much longer. Then you fix the brakes with the proper brake pad material and all of a sudden the car is able to stop on a dime.

I got into a discussion about the syncros and what could be done to make the M5R2 shift quiker. Other than the reduced throw shift lever, one would think that either changing the syncro fiber compound to something that had a higher coefficent of friction would help, as well as increaseing the "braking" surface area. Also using lighter weight gears and shafts will take less energy to slow down and speed up. But none of those parts are readily available and I don't see too many folks looking to manufacture them either.

But back to your original question Rico.... If that stuff is appropriate for synronized transmissions... then go for it. Duffy says he's got no issues. And that's good enough for me!
 
The M5R2 tranny is supposed to get 4 ounces of the friction modifier. I used mobil one ATF with 6 ounces of the frictioin modifier.
 
Well thanks for the responses. I went with the factory stuff. mainly because I can get a discounted price.
But also because I gave it some digestion and I also feel that if its too slippery Ill have a tough time quick shifting.
But I dont really know.

Now the Friction modifier being an oil based fluid, how does it help with creating friction. I dont know how it works but would like to know.
 
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