Fixed Balancer, Still Won't Start. Now i have code

455Poncho

Registered User
Balancer was wobbling like crazy, probably best i replaced it anyway. But it didnt fix the problem...

....car still wont start and is pulling codes 67 and 14.

67 is for clutch interlock, but the car will still crank, and almost fire. The exhaust smells really rich. The motor doesnt sound happy while its being cranked.

Is this the problem, i would think that it wouldnt crank at all if the clutch switch was fµcked. Code 14 says "profile ignition circuit fault", but it is a continuous memory code, so could it cause the vehicle not to run???
 
#14= Loss of PIP signal.
Your wobbling HB took out the crank sensor. Replace it.
#67=Clutch switch circuit failuire.
This one is pretty well self explanatory, Replace the clutch switch, but it will not prevent your car from starting.

If you want to learn about the EEC-IV system on these cars go to www.fordfuelinjection.com it will help you to understand how to go about troubleshooting the system.
 
I went and unplugged the battery, plugged it back in, and tried to start the car. Still wouldnt start, so i ran the KOEO test again. This time got for hard codes: 21,24, and 67 again. And for the cm codes i got 11, so it passed.


No more code 14, so does that mean the crank sensor is fine??
 
Not necessarily. Easiest way to tell is to watch the tach.. if, when you're cranking the engine, the up-arrow lights up and stays lit, then the EEC isn't getting the signal from the crank sensor (PIP). Could be a bad sensor (likely that the wobbling balancer took it out) or faulty wiring. Hate to say it, but the best time to change the sensor was when you installed the new balancer. Still very doable, so don't take the balancer off. There are 2 or 3 9-10mm bolts/studs which hold the crank sensor mounting bracket to the engine and 2 - 6.5mm bolts which hold the sensor to the bracket. Either way will work, but the upper tiny 6.5mm bolt takes a lot of patience to remove. :D Oh, and the crank sensor won't always throw a code, so if you got one to start with, you were lucky.
 
Why doesnt a code come up if the sensor is bad?? :confused:

I'm hoping this is all it needs, fixing this car is getting expensive. I've already spent more fixing it than i paid for it :eek:
 
Until you fix the car and get it running NEVER disconnect the battery and reset the comp. What happens when you do that is the comp take a look at all the sensor readings bad or not and sets a new baseline for the comp to compair its readings to in order to tell if a sensor is malfunctioning. Now it wll not give you accurate codes.

In other words after resetting the comp the next time you turn on the ignition the comp looks at the readings GOOD or BAD and determines that everything is fine. It then moniters the sensors and compairs the readings to the NEW baseline readings it set when you reset the comp to determine if the sensors are bad or not.
Example: These are not actual #'s they are just an example to illustrate my point.

Lets say the pickup coil in the crank sensor when new reads 3 ohms. Lets ay the acceptable range on that sensor is between 2.9-3.5 ohms.
Now you get a code for the crank sensor. That means the sensor readings have moved outside the acceptable limits, say its reading 1.5 ohms. That is why the CEL came on.
Now without changing the sensor you reset the comp. Next time the car is turned on the ECU checks the sensors and it see's the crank sensor reading 1.5 ohms. But because you reset the comp you also reset the baseline measurments for all the sensors, meaning that the comp looks at the crank sensor reading of 1.5 ohms and decides this is the correct reading because it no longer has the correct measurement stored in its memory to tell it the sensor is bad.

Go to www.fordfuelinjection.com and learn about how to troubleshoot the EEC-IV system. The sit is listed in the FAQ section of the board so people can go there and learn about this system. It will help you save time and money to go there and learn about it.:)
 
455Poncho said:
Why doesnt a code come up if the sensor is bad?? :confused:
Beats me. A bad cam sensor won't typically throw a code either. Your problem though isn't the cam sensor.

I thiink it has to do with the feeds into the DIS module. The DIS is relatively dumb. It has a very limited ability to report what's wrong. The EEC tends to monitor and check things which it has direct control of. Such as injectors, temps, O2 sensors, etc. So, sometimes you'll get a code, sometimes not. But, the up-arrow lite while cranking is a sure sign of a missing PIP signal.
Many of us have had both problems.

As far as relearn, don't sweat it. Unhook the battery, replace the part, hook up the battery again, and try to start the car. You'll be fine. Its standard procedure to unhook the battery whenever you work on the electrical system.. especially the starter or alternator.. (although there are tricks for the non-novice mechanic). Consider that none of the sensors are energized with the key off.. For that matter, neither is the EEC other than its memory. ;)
 
The reason that happens is there are 2 types of sensor failures.
1 Electrical failure- This is what the comp tests the sensors for. But as long as the sensor checks good electricaly thats all the comp can do.
2. Mechanical failure- The comp cannot check for this and it may or may not throw a code.

Example:
Your problem for instance. You dont get a code for faulty crank trigger, but you may have got a code for loss of PIP. You notice that your HB is wobbling and you check it out. You learn that the HB is shot and you replace it. Now you have a new HB but the car doesnt start and you dont get a code for it, about now youre starting to scratch your head and starting to get a headache because it does'nt make sense and you dont know where to go now.
What has happened is the BAD HB has lightly struck the sensing surface of the crank sensor and destroyed its ability to sense.
The comp doesnt check this condition it checked the electromagnetic coil inside of the sensor wich is not damaged and therefore the comp concluded there was nothing wrong with the sensor and therefore it throws no code.

You have a mechanical failure of a sensor and the comp will not pick that up.
Now if your sensor was struck with such force that it totally destroyed it that would cause a short in the internal coil and a code would have been thrown. Most of the bad crank sensors that are poping up are because of this type mechanical failure and thats why its been hard to understand what is going on and for some guy's downright hard to beleive that this is what has happened.
Hope this helps.:)
 
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