Door Rear View Mirrors

stocker 89

Registered User
OK ever since I have had my car 5+yrs. The door mirrors have not worked.What could the problem be? I am guessing it is not the switch cause there doesn't seem to be power getting to them. My thoughts are that it is a bad connection or relayor something. I don't know if there are even any relays or how it they are wired.


Any ideas ?

I have got some extra powerd mirrors should I need them I kinda find it hard to belive they are both broken could be hate to change them to find out the problem is under the dash.
 
Hey Pastera

Just did a search and saw your post from 3/31/03 Electrical issues with fuse 18. Well all my stuff works except the power mirrors. I saw you got a evtm. Was wondering if you could tell me what color the wires are for the powerd mirrors and where they come off the main harness or where is the main branch in the harness.

When I got the car all kinds of lights were burned out like the maplights the glove box the fog switch and passenger side kick panel been replacing them all getting all the interior lights up and on everything has power except the mirrors.
 
Also where do you think the problem is?

I am guessing from your post you have experience with this circuit. It has to be before the wires branch out to both mirrors Cause neither have power. Where do you think the best place is to start?
 
Wow is this bunch o'wires intimadating.

OK well the wires coming from the mirrors on both sides pass and driver are.
Yellow
blue
red.
three wires.

The wires at the switch are.
Yellow
blue
red
LT green with yellow strip
DRK green
black
purple
7 wires
These wires seem to run throught the wire loom they all go through both doors have not look under dash scared too. Is there a simple fix or what to do where should I look under the dash? Maybe I will just leave the mirrors in their stuck position looking like alot of work.
 
I am at work right now and will look up and scan the power mirror diagrams tonight.

My problem was no interior lights, map lights, or power mirrors. The cause was a bad factory splice in the wiring harness.
The splice in under the floor mats by the front of the drivers door.

If this is where your problem is, I hope your good with a soldering iron :D

You will need to peel back the electrical tape for about 8-10 inches to expose the harness and the splice is buried inside the wire bundle.

Strip both sides of the splice back until you find good, clean copper. This is essential, if you try to resplice over corroded wire you'll be back in there in a year.

Put some heat shrink tubing on a peice of like sized wire and solder the new splices together. Clean the joints with electronics cleaner to remove the flux left over from soldering and seal up the joints with the heat shrink.


Aaron
 
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The LG/Y (light green with yellow stripe) is power. This should be live, if its not then you need to check the splice.

It is on splice 229: window regulator harness, below LH door sill.

If you have map lights and dome lights then the problem is from the splice to the door.


If the splice has gone bad and you can't solder, a good car audio place should be able to do it. Just make sure they know you don't want it fixed with a crimp connector.

Aaron
 
Wow Pastera that is great man . THANK YOU

I am going to check into it . I do have map light and dome lights . So the problem has got to be somewhere in here. Not quite sure I understand left hand door sill so what you are saying is it is in the door some where between the floor mat splice 229 and where the wires enter the door could be at the switch . So if I turn the key on . I got a digital volt and ohm meter how do I check to see if it is live. Do I turn the key on and put the positive probe on the LG wire with the yellow stripe. where should I put the black probe and what should the reading be. Should I get a noid light. I see I will have to trace the wire back to where there is power and splice it there. It probably isn't a ground problem because the map and dome and vaniety lamps door lamps well everything is working but the Powerd mirrors.
 
You don't need to turn on the key, the INT LAMPS fuse is always hot.

First, if you have access to a voltmeter, get a large hammer, 3-5lbs, and smash the SH1T out of your noid light. Always use your meter and if you don't have one you can get a cheap one for around $25.


1: Pull the switch assembly on the drivers door.

2: Put your meter on ohms (resistance) and check from the black wire to one of the hinges. You will need to find a good clean spot on the chassis to get contact. You should read very close to zero (less than 1 ohm).

3: Now that you have established you have ground. Put the meter on DC volts and measure from the LG/Y wire to the back wire. You should see >12 volts. If you find 12 volts here then your switch is probably bad.

4: At this time you have no power to the switch. You will need to expose the splice. If you want to test the mirrors at this point, jumper a wire from a fused 12 volt source to the LG/Y wire (I used the power at the lock switch until I had time to fix the splice)

5: Time to fix the splice. Move the drivers seat as far back as possible. Remove the plastic cover from the drivers sill, the seat belt is a minor pain but doable. pull back the rug and rug-mat towards the tranny as far as possible, if you wedge it under the brake pedal it might actually stay out of your way.

6: Now you will be able to see into the door sill where the wire harness is. There will be a plastic peice bridging the the depression where the wiring harness is, remove this becase the splice is in the harness under it.

7: carefully unwrap the electrical tape from the harness like explained in the last post and search the bundle for the LG/Y wire. The S229 splice is actuall two splices about three inches apart (on my car). You will need a 1' peice of good quality 16 or 18 guage wire to repair the splice.

Do you know how to solder? If not, are you willing to take 20 minutes to practice on some scrap wire? I can post you through the basics and the tools will cost less than $20 at radio shack.

Aaron
 
HA HA HA HA That is Pastera Yeah man cool.

I spliced into the LT GREEN WITH THE Yellow strip. Ran a jumper wire from the Door lock Positive BLACK WITH A white stripe. Sure enough both mirrors are working . WOW MAN WOW.

So what should I do now Should I splice a permanent wire in from the B/W stripe door lock positive to the LT GR / Y stripe possitive on the mirrors.

OR

should I cut a splice at the loom between body and door run a jumper between the LT GR with yellow stripe splices and see if it works.

I don't have any soder stuff but I do got some electric tape in the meantime Till I get my hand on one.
 
You need to find the real problem. Somewhere in your wiring harness is a splice that is failing, and it is in a live Vbat circuit. This can cause one of two outcomes.

1: The wires corrode to the point they fuse and all of your interior lights go out.

2: The wires corrode to the point that the current draw on the wire causes the harness to heat up, catch on fire and torch your car.


The most probable outcome for this type of circuit is choice 1.

The splice is where I said it was and only takes about 20 minutes to uncover. You can electrical tape the repairs, but they won't last as long ( that's why you have this issue now because they are taped.)

Aaron
 
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