Brake + ABS lights when I brake?!

iwannanSC

Registered User
Hello,

I just changed the sensor on my proportioning valve because it was leaking terribly and brake fluid was squirting out all over the place. Now I bled the brakes, but whenever I brake both the Brake and ABS lights come on. What is the problem? Also, when I bled them I attached a tube to the bleeder nipple and placed the other end of the tube in a full bottle of brake fluid. Is this correct or do I need to bleed them without doing this? PLEASE help me, I'm supposed to drive a good distance tomorrow and don't feel comfortable with these lights on.

Thanks,

Matt
 
Did you bleed the rear brakes with the ignition key ON? If not rebleed with the key ON and get back to us if the problem does not clear. The fronts you can do either way. Should be RR, LR, RF and LF on the Mark II system you have.
 
Alright I did that and that worked - the lights don't come on every time I brake anymore. So thanks Duffy. However, both lights still come on when I hit the brakes very hard. The ABS still works. Someone said that it may be the accumulator going bad. What does everyone think?

Thanks a million,

Matt
 
The accumeulater only lasts for about ten years so ive been told.
I had one go out in my 91. Both lights came on and when I replaced my accumeulater problem went away.
 
iwannanSC said:
Someone said that it may be the accumulator going bad. What does everyone think?
Matt
Yes, your accululator is bad and needs to be replaced. I won't wait to long to replace it, because over time you will destroy your ABS unit.

Prior Remanufacturing is the best source for new accumulators. They don't list the Accumulator on their website so you will need to contact them http://www.priorreman.com or 1-800-444-4821 and ask for Rick Fletcher. Tell him you need an Accumulator for a "Teves Mark II" ABS. Should be around 100USD.....

Just like this:
absaccum.jpg
 
Last edited:
I agree...now is the time to consider replacing the accumulator. Make sure you press the brake pedal at least 20 times with the ignition key off to depressurize the system before you attempt the replacement. You will need to take off the plastic cowl pieces to gain better access. The OEM accumulator will have a hex head indentation in the top to help you remove it but the units from Prior Reman do not and can only be hand tightened. You need to make sure they send you a new O ring for the nipple end of the accumulator and it should be moistened with clean brake fluid before you install it.
 
Alright guys, thanks very much for the input! I'll go ahead and replace the accumulator ASAP.

Thanks again,

Matt
 
Hey - one other quick question: Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing the accumulator? I'm thinking NO, as long as I don't let the level in the reservior get low enough to let any air in, but I'm not totally sure.

Thanks alot guys, I ordered the accumulator this morning and hope to have the SC back on the road in a few days!

Matt
 
I had the same problem - ABS and brake light come on when hard or panic braking. As was suggested on this forum, I purchased an accumulator from Prior and that fixed the problem.

Also, the pump doesn't buzz nearly as often as it used to.
 
Accumulator

I was just wondering if all SC's use the same accumulator. For the past week, I too am having the same problem with the ABS & Brake lights coming on during hard braking. Also, I have noticed that for the past couple of months my ABS light will come on intermitently while driving. Sometimes it will stay on for a few seconds and sometimes it will stay on all day. Is this also related to the accumulator or is it something else.

Thanks,
Brando
 
Only the 89 to 92;s have the Teves Mark II ABS System. All those years use the same accumulator. The amber Anti-Lock light you have is most likely NOT related directly to the accumulator. I would read for codes in your case. The test connector is on the passenger side of the trunk behind your carpet.
 
Ok guys, one more thing...

On the right you can see the new accumulator from Prior reman that I ordered. On the left is the stock one that I removed from the car. See how the stock one has that little insert that makes the hole smaller where it screws in? The new accumulator doesn't have that. Do I need to transfer that little insert to the new accumulator or not?

Thanks a billion guys,

Matt
 

Attachments

  • p1010046.jpg
    p1010046.jpg
    54.6 KB · Views: 560
Well I talked to Rick at Prior and he said that I can just screw the new one right in. I'm gonna try to finish this job up today when I get back from school.

Matt
 
According to the ford manual, I should tighten the new accumulator between 26 and 34lb-ft of torque. Since I cant get a torque wrench down there because of the tight fit, is hand tightening it enough or should I use more force?

Thanks,
Brando
 
Duffy - I've just started getting a continuous ABS light. My code reader won't work on this system, so my son is seeing if one of the mechanics over at the Ford dealer where he works, will read it on their machine. I recently had a rear pad break away from the backing plate (made a hell of a lot of noise). I got PepBoys to replace the Raybestos pads under warranty, re-installed, screwed the piston back & rotor looks ok. About a week after that I started getting the light. Any ideas? & do the codes you published on your Teves Mark 11 apply to the later models as well. Mine is a '93.
Thanks,Jim.
 
Hey Brando I just hand-tightened mine, but I also noticed that on the bottom of the accumulator there is a place for an open end wrench. The next time I have my upper intercooler tube off I'm gonna wrench it a little tighter just to be safe. Hope this helps,

Matt
 
Jim,

I have never done a code by code cross reference between the Teves Mark II and Mark IV systems. If you do read for codes though I have them for the Mark IV system and can tell you what the code is.

I am not as familiar with the Mark IV system and the technical info in the Ford Helms Shop Manual is no where as detailed as that for the Mark II system. If I know what codes you have though I can still guide you some on where to look for the problem.
 
Thanks Duffy - my son just called me and the dealer is getting code "32". According to my '93 Helms that's the "RH front sensor", the same as your chart for the '89-92 models. In fact the only difference I could see was that codes # 12,21,88 & 99 are not listed in the '93 Helms manual at all. We'll disconnect the sensor and check the resistance - 800<1400 ohms is ok according to Helms.
Jim.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top