Codes 51,96, and 49 w/ KOEO test

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derekhay316

Registered User
Just did a KOEO test and I got the following codes:
51 - EGT sensor input exceeds test maximum
96 - Fuel pump secondary circuit failure
49 - Spout signal defaulted to 10 degrees BTDC

I put in a new stock fuel pump about 2 months ago and it seems to run fine. The only things wrong with my car that I know of is the occasional hard start (take a little longer to fire up), my cooling fan does not turn on when engine reaches temperature or when ac is turned on (might be what code 51 is about) and when started the car revs to about 2000 rpms and then drops down (also a slite rough idle). Any input would be great.
 
Where's the engine temp sensor located? I just put in a new coolant temp sensor, is that what you're talking about?
 
ECT - approx $65.00 - Engine Coolant Sensor is on passenger side close to fuel injector and DIS. Its signal goes to EEC (computer).

The Engine Temp Sensor - approx $12.00 - is on drivers side by the thermo gasket and its signal goes to the dash guage only.
 
Code #96 - No clue on that one.

Code #49 - Spout signal defaulted to 10 degrees BTDC; I think for some reason the comp wasn't getting necesary info, so it went into "Limp Home Mode".
A number of things can cause that, but is it running fine?
 
Ok my car is running fine. As I said before the occassionall hard start and the high idle at startup and rough idle. So what exactly is the ECA??? Thanks.
 
Well if it is running fine, and the comp says "Running at default - 10' BTDC" or whatever, then maybe just a stored code. By unplugging battery, and connecting it back, you'll erase the stored codes. You can go from there. Basicaly if your car ever defaulted to Limp Home Mode, then it may just be stored codes.

Edit- The ECA is a Electronic Control Assembly, commonly known as the EEC, or the Computer itself.
 
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Have you messed with the Idle Control Valve at all? Like did you take it off and clean it? That is a big No No!
The high idle leans me to that direction, though you just put a new pump in 2 months ago? New filter as well? I suggest doing a fuel pressure test. Hook a guage up at the shrader Valve (Bicycle Tire Air Valve) on the fuel rail, Drivers side of the Supercharger. Note pressure(s) at:
Key On Engine Off,
Key On Engine Running,
Key Off Engine Off, and how LONG it holds WHAT pressure.
You can easily rule out the pump/regulator doing a diagnostic on the fuel pressure.
Clear your codes and see if they come back..
 
Yah I cleaned the iac a while ago. I've been needing a new one. I just unplugged the battery and I'm still getting the same codes. I also got a new one: 67
 
I also got a new one: 67

#67 is "Clutch Switch Circuit Failed"
Might just be a operator error during test or something.

Hate to say it, but maybe a bad call on cleaning out the IAC. Problems arised since you did that? Me and another guy recently had same prob with the IAC. I ended up replacing: Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pressure Regulator, TB Gasket, Throttle Posistion Sensor, IAC Gasket (Gasket Only), Intake to Plenum Gasket, Harmonic Balancer/Pulley Assembly. Replaced or repaired most engine wiring, etc..
Ended up the IAC was bad and I made it worse after cleaning it, trying to find problem which was IAC all along. They are like $80 US.

Do you have to hold throttle down to get to start? High engine idle around 2,000 rpm? Dying goose sound upon turning the ignition off? In my opinion, the IAC is the culprit of those problems for sure.

If you change out your IAC, get a new gasket $3, and unplug electrical plugin for the #3 injector. It was in my way and cross threaded the lower IAC bolt stripping/cracking my throttle body. Ouch!!:eek:
 
Will a bad iac actually cause these codes to arise and cause things to break or does it just fool the computer into thinking these things are broken.
 
Ok i figured it out the high idle. I've had my engine coolant temp sensor unplugged so the fan is on all the time and because the sensor is not working i guess the computer is thinking the car is bone cold all the time, so its been increasing the idle to compensate. So I bought a new sensor and plugged it in and it got rid of the high idle problems, but it still won't turn on the fan when its supposed to. Any other ideas why the fan isn't turning on? Thanks.
 
Like I said on your other post, to plug that back in or replace it if it is bad. It is important to the EEC. The EEC will tell a relay to turn the low speed fan on after it reaches (I think) 210 degrees. If it gets up to (I think) 220, then the High Speed Fan kicks on.

YES, that is hot! But that is what it is suppose to do. Make sure your engine is not overheating while waiting to see if fan turns on. You can manualy turn fan on by turning the Air Conditioning on. If that doesn't work, then you have a problem with the fan or relay or something.
 
Yeah i already replaced that sensor and the fan still won't turn on. I let it get to the M in norm. The air conditioner doesn't turn the fan on either. So what I'm gunna do is cut the 14 wire and hook up a switch so i can just turn it on whenever.
 
I 'm sure you know this already,but i was looking through my haynes book because i have some problems of my own and it stated this for your codes.
49 --- default spark error (3.8l sc only).
51 --- coolant temp sensor circuit open.
96 --- fuel pump circuit open,battery to ECA.
I don't know if you needed that or not......just thought i'd through it in there.
Good luck.
 
My 1990 runs at the "M" as well. Fan turns on when it gets to the far right side. It doesn't seem right, does it? I know I'm in need of a new radiator though, but I think my ECT is bad. Did you try turning A/C on to see if fan turns on with it?
 
yeah it doesn't turn the fan on, so it must be a sensor or computer problem. Ah well this will work out. I just have to install a manual switch.
 
Are you sure your fan is good? I'm not too familiar with the cooling fan electronics/relays and what not, but you may want to do a search on this BEFORE cutting the 14 wire and it still doesn't work. When you turn on the A/C it SHOULD make the fan turn on. Sounds like more than a sensor. Have you tried to hook up juice directly to fan and see if it works? Ohm Meter or something? Maybe a new post just on this issue will have the fan experts jump in with all kinds of tips, and theories.:)
 
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