Brake/rotor question

B

Billabong089

Registered User
Hey,

Do I have to replace that nut that holds the rotors on in the rear?

This would be my first time doing brakes... any advice?
 
The nut does'nt hold the rotor on Bill. Once you have the wheel off remove the caliper and the rotor slides right off the wheel studs. You only have to remove the nut if youre going to pull the axle out. That nut must be replaced with new nut everytime you remove one.:)
 
rotor

i just recently replaced my rotors.... they were rusted on and wouldnt slide off easily. i wasnt sure how they came off but eventually just took a hammer and tapped the otherside all around and it slides off.... maybe this help you might have the same problem
Damon
 
The rear rotors do not just slide off once you take the calipers off.
You have to remove the knuckles first. The two bolts that hold on the knuckle can be very hard to break loose. Get a 6 sided 15mm open end wrench. Put the wrench on the bolts and tap it with a heavy sledge to loosen them. Once the knuckle is off, then the rotor will slide off.
 
I think you mean you have to remove the rear caliper bracket, not the rear knuckle.

As mentioned, use a 6 point socket, and you'll likely need a breaker bar or long socket wrench to get some decent leverage on the bolts. Make sure you use anti-seize when putting them back on.

And if you're lucky (I wasn't) your lower caliper slide pins won't be frozen inside the bracket.

The gold colored item in the image below:

calipertogetherclose.jpg
 
I'm a knuckle head.
I did mean the caliper bracket.
If a pin is seized in the caliper bracket, you can clamp the bracket into a bench vise, put some penetrating oil on it, and work the bolt back and forth with a wrench until it frees up. (Worked for me).
Also, make sure the rubber boots are not cracked or deteriorated before putting them back on. These are very important in keeping moisture out and preventing the bolts from seizing.
If they are cracked, just buy new ones.
 
Best solution for a seized caliper pin is heat. Just don't use hat and penitrating oil at the same time :D like I did.

Use a .357 magnum barrell brush to clean out the pin bore. You can pick one up at Walmart for less than two bucks.

Also, get a hardware kit and a tube of calilper pin lube to put everything back together. The kit comes with new rubbers and new pin bolts (with thread lock). I think the kit is about $7 and the pins are a couple of bucks each if you need new ones.

Aaron
 
Aaron, your brilliant. You just gave me an idea. Before you put in the new pins, pour some gunpowder down the bore. The next time you do the brakes, and have a seized pin, apply some heat and just fire that pin out of there like a bullet.:D
 
I tried heat with mine. Didn't work. Took it to the Ford dealer that used heat and a press. Didn't work.

For $50 I had two new brackets and pin kits.

One pin laying down, the other pin still in the bore.

caliperbracket.jpg
 
I mounted the caliper bracket in my bench vise such that the pin was facing down then heated up the bracket. When everything was good and hot, I put an open-end wrench on the back of the pin's head and hammered the pin downward by hitting the wrench. Just make sure you wear a good pair of work gloves because the wrench gets hot and the sting from the hammer.

This all assumes you have a bench vise.

TBirdDriver: Cute, I'll have to remember not to drive next to you. One panick stop and the guy in the next lane is eating your brakes :D


Aaron
 
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