I have tried every thing that I can tink of and it just wont run. I drove it all the way back from Saint Louis running bad but it ran and it idled. I cleaned the plugs regapped them to .045 and now the car wont idle it kills if I rey to get it to and runs bad no power. I know it may need new plugs and I ordered some but it ran and idled with these plugs it oil soaked. Checked for vaccum leaks and cant find any??? I dont know what to do next. Tim
Problem continues????
- Thread starter tim
- Start date
Problems continue???
Mike I didnt have baffles in the valve covers my mistake. That is fixed and everything that got oil soaked got cleaned up. Crazy thing is I drove it home oil soaked and all. It idled and ran, it was just pulling oil from the pvcs. Now after cleaning it all up it wont idle at all I have to keep revving it to keep it running and driving it the idle goes way up no power at all. I am stumped I have checked everything with no results.
Mike I didnt have baffles in the valve covers my mistake. That is fixed and everything that got oil soaked got cleaned up. Crazy thing is I drove it home oil soaked and all. It idled and ran, it was just pulling oil from the pvcs. Now after cleaning it all up it wont idle at all I have to keep revving it to keep it running and driving it the idle goes way up no power at all. I am stumped I have checked everything with no results.
Digitalchaos
Registered User
I think its likely your plugs are wrecked, as they were oil soaked.
While waiting for your order of (hopefully) Autolite/motorcraft DPs or NGKs, I would buy some cheap copper autolites just to see if the problem alleviates itself. This will also prevent damaging the 8$ plugs in the event that a problem should occur.
If I understand you correctly, you also mentioned that your idle is high? First thing that comes to mind w/o knowing more is an IAC.
While waiting for your order of (hopefully) Autolite/motorcraft DPs or NGKs, I would buy some cheap copper autolites just to see if the problem alleviates itself. This will also prevent damaging the 8$ plugs in the event that a problem should occur.
If I understand you correctly, you also mentioned that your idle is high? First thing that comes to mind w/o knowing more is an IAC.
Duffy Floyd
SCCoA Lifetime Member
I would be checking your harmonic damper. This sounds awlful familar to the way my 89 ran when the damper broke and spun but the bolt was still holding it to the crank.
Well it sounds like you got yourself a mess. Oil soaking everything under the hood like that may have gotten oil into electrical connectors messing up the contact between connectors.
Oil may have worked its way into the plug wires raising there resistance making it difficult to fire the plugs.
I'd start by gunking the entire engine compartment then disconecting each wiring connector and cleaning all those and reconnecting them.
Man I would'nt want to be in your shoes right now, you have alot of work ahead of you.
Oil may have worked its way into the plug wires raising there resistance making it difficult to fire the plugs.
I'd start by gunking the entire engine compartment then disconecting each wiring connector and cleaning all those and reconnecting them.
Man I would'nt want to be in your shoes right now, you have alot of work ahead of you.
stocker 89
Registered User
Yeah Mike 38 sc is right clean everything up good.
use electrical contact cleaner On all connections and for the inside of IAC do not scrub the insides of of IAC you might damage it.
There is a way to test a IAC . you can measure OHMS resistance it should be between 7-13 ohms. I have 2 IAC they both read between 8 and 9 .
The problem as MIKE 38sc has pointed out many times with ohm testing is that it can be inconclusive. The only true way to test things like a IAC TPS O2s Cam and crank sensors is that they have to be being used under load just because it reads the correct ohms doesn't mean it will work correctly many manuels state that you have to test a unit while it is working to get a proper reading and to watch the readings climb and fall.
use electrical contact cleaner On all connections and for the inside of IAC do not scrub the insides of of IAC you might damage it.
There is a way to test a IAC . you can measure OHMS resistance it should be between 7-13 ohms. I have 2 IAC they both read between 8 and 9 .
The problem as MIKE 38sc has pointed out many times with ohm testing is that it can be inconclusive. The only true way to test things like a IAC TPS O2s Cam and crank sensors is that they have to be being used under load just because it reads the correct ohms doesn't mean it will work correctly many manuels state that you have to test a unit while it is working to get a proper reading and to watch the readings climb and fall.
Problems continue???
I just went out and elongated the holes that hold the tps on. It seemed to make a big differance. I didnt have a gauge on it but as my brother moved the tps it started to idle and when I bliped the throttle it came back down. It still has a little lope in it but that may be the iac. Right? I am going to pull two off a couple of junks I found try them and see If that makes a differance. Tomorrow I will borrow a muilt- meter from a from a friend of mine. The correct reading is .98 to 1 volt right?
I just went out and elongated the holes that hold the tps on. It seemed to make a big differance. I didnt have a gauge on it but as my brother moved the tps it started to idle and when I bliped the throttle it came back down. It still has a little lope in it but that may be the iac. Right? I am going to pull two off a couple of junks I found try them and see If that makes a differance. Tomorrow I will borrow a muilt- meter from a from a friend of mine. The correct reading is .98 to 1 volt right?
A quick way to test the IAC in this instance is to let the engine idle then unplug the IAC while the engine is runing. The engine should die, if not either the diaphram is leaking air into the engine or the mechanicals of the IAC are not adjusting the idle.
Pull the codes before you do anything else, that may give you some clues as to the areas that you are having trouble with and that will point you into directions that need to be worked on.
Pull the codes before you do anything else, that may give you some clues as to the areas that you are having trouble with and that will point you into directions that need to be worked on.
stocker 89
Registered User
There is no way to test the TPS.
Yes those are the correct numbers but to do the test you have to be hooked up to a breakout box and the car has to be running.
Yes those are the correct numbers but to do the test you have to be hooked up to a breakout box and the car has to be running.
Duffy Floyd
SCCoA Lifetime Member
Actually you can use straightened paperclips stuck in the back side of the connector to get a good idea what the voltage is. Make sure they do not touch or ground to anything though. You do have to have the engine running to get the reading though. It might be possible to get a reading with just the ignition key in the ON position. Never tried it that way though so I am not positive on that.
Digitalchaos
Registered User
If you are going to disassemble the electrical connections & clean them, it would be a good time to apply protecting grease.
Duffy Floyd
SCCoA Lifetime Member
Tim,
Is this a stocker motor or do you have mods? OEM TB? The protective grease mentioned is dielectric grease.
Is this a stocker motor or do you have mods? OEM TB? The protective grease mentioned is dielectric grease.
Randy N Connie
Registered User
Tim the volts read .98 to under 1. with throttle closed.
With throttle wide open volts should top out at just over 4. volts.
TPS adjustment key on engine off.Use paper clips in plugin.Then hook meter clips
to paper clips to get reading.
I woulden't think that oil would make the TPS not work..
Check to see if you got oil on the MAF sensor,and clean.
Duffy, Tim has a very nice moded motor all new.heads,cam,throttle body,maf,ect.I think
about every thing but a stroked crank.
randy
With throttle wide open volts should top out at just over 4. volts.
TPS adjustment key on engine off.Use paper clips in plugin.Then hook meter clips
to paper clips to get reading.
I woulden't think that oil would make the TPS not work..
Check to see if you got oil on the MAF sensor,and clean.
Duffy, Tim has a very nice moded motor all new.heads,cam,throttle body,maf,ect.I think
about every thing but a stroked crank.
randy
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Problems continue???
Randy I got every thing cleaned up but the mass air sensor. I wil do that tomorrow. I was told to clean it with alcohol on a q-tip is that right? I already cleaned up the throttle body there was no oilin the iac, I took it iff and checked it. I hpoe this does it. Maybe I can get rid of the lopey idle. My cam is not that big that it should do loping like it was. Tim
Randy I got every thing cleaned up but the mass air sensor. I wil do that tomorrow. I was told to clean it with alcohol on a q-tip is that right? I already cleaned up the throttle body there was no oilin the iac, I took it iff and checked it. I hpoe this does it. Maybe I can get rid of the lopey idle. My cam is not that big that it should do loping like it was. Tim
Duffy Floyd
SCCoA Lifetime Member
Well...if he has an aftermarket TB then he needs to set the idle correctly with the air bleed screw and throttle stop. Here is a procedure that Dr. Fred wrote and will be avialable in the soon to be revealed Members Only section of the BBS.
Should make sure the TPS is set correctly first.
"Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough airbleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment.
The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using an 0.010" feeler guage, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of locktite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment.
Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675.
Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.
If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone rtv on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC. You are done. "
Should make sure the TPS is set correctly first.
"Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough airbleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment.
The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using an 0.010" feeler guage, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of locktite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment.
Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675.
Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.
If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone rtv on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC. You are done. "