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ss_scuba
10-10-2003, 05:11 PM
1. I'm gettting decent vacuum while, but almost no boost. I get about 10inHg of vacuum cruising, and about 20inHg when I let off the gas. I'm only getting about 4psi of boost though. Could a leak on the intercooler tubes be the cause? I've got the gaskets from winn already. How much vacuum are our cars supposed to get with the stock cam? Mods are listed below (exhaust hasn't been done yet).

2. Does anyone possibly have a spare accumulator they can ship me? My brake pump motor will run until it's forced to shut down. Even when I have the car off, it will run.....which come to think of it, it might be a ralay somewhere. Does anyone know where the relay is for the pump motor?

3. My idle sucks....I think the factory tach is out to lunch, cause it says I'm doing 2000rpm in 5th gear doing 100kph(60mph). I pulled the plug on the IAC and got it to idle smoothly, so I figure it's just that and I'm gonna try to pick up another one very soon. When I let off the gas and come to a stop, the car will almost want to stall. I thought it might have been a vacuum leak, could still be.

Thanks

Fordz Coupe
10-10-2003, 05:45 PM
Vacuum at idle with a stock cam s/b 18-20in.
Check your boost gauge feed line at the plenum, it might be cracked or partially disconnected which would affect both boost & idle vac. readings.
It's a small grey (?) vac line about the width of a juice box straw.
A quick check for vacuum leaks is to watch how quickly the vacuum gauge returns to "0" after the car is shut down, it should take 3 to 4 seconds.
Also, 2000 rpm at 100 km/hr is pretty close in 5th with stock sized tires.

silversc90
10-10-2003, 06:34 PM
my car wiil turn about 1600 rpm, at 60. it is a 94. i think your tach is off, or you have a set of gears and the speedo has never been corrected.

Duffy Floyd
10-10-2003, 06:40 PM
You don't need an accumulator just yet...you need to change out the ABS Pump Motor relay which is on the passenger side firewall. If it is the original one it will have a brown base. There are 5 wires running into the connector the relay plugs into.

Tan with Yellow Stripes
Gray
Gray with red stripes
Pink with Orange stripes
Pink with Light Blue stripes.

A bad accumulator will not cause the pump motor to run after the key is turned off...only a bad ignition switch combined with a bad Anti-Lock Pressure Switch (double failure) or relay can do that.

ss_scuba
10-10-2003, 07:00 PM
Okay, one of the guys at work was nice enough to bring in his MAC Tools code reader, so we're gonna do that when I get off of work tonite, I think I'm gonna get one for the IAC valve. It's probably toast. Does anyone have one from a manual car?

As for the relay...I take it it's right next to the wide-open-throttle-cut-out for the air conditioning??? I guess I should be able to get the dealership to find one. Anyone know the product number, or where I can get a replacement?

On the issue of my tach, the only thing I've done is to install a set of custom gauges from Scott Hrbeck. I put the needle in the same spot as when it came off, and I was told to just put in at the zero spot anyways. I think it's reading high in all the gears....I'm gonna borrow an aftermarket tach from a buddy for a while and see how far it's out. Any ideas why it might be?? I have the stock 2.73 gears, and the stock 5spd. I just put the motor back in and the battery was out for just under two years, so could the computer just be a little messed up??

Duffy Floyd
10-10-2003, 07:08 PM
For the ABS Pump Motor Relay the Ford PN# is either E9SZ-5K617-A or E7LB-2C013-BA (either can be used) They cost from $20-$36 USD.

Reported alternative aftermarket relays which can be used include Borg Warner PN# R647 and Standard Parts PN# ry223 also GP Sorenson MR120

ss_scuba
10-11-2003, 01:46 AM
Okay, ran the codes and found out where I'm leaking from. The leak is right in the joint by the #6 piston, where the intake manifold, head, and block all meet. I guess something didn't seat right. You can actually feel air entering through there. I guess I know what I'm doing in addition to work this weekend. :(

As for running the codes....no stored codes. Passed KOEO test. The KOER test on the other hand.....got the following codes: :eek:
21 - ECT Range
41 - System Lean
91 - Hego Lean
13 - Idle High
72 - MAFS Voltage Change
73 - TP Sensor Change
25 - Knock Sensor
74 - BOO Open
Since I had a vacuum leak, the car wouldn't idle so I held it open which solves #13. I didn't keep it very even which eliminates #72 & 73. I don't think that the engine was quite warm enough either, so that's #21. I'm guessing since I have a bad vacuum leak, it's causing the car to run lean, and thus #41 & 91, and in turn a little bit of knock (#25). The only one I can't figure out (I don't have my book of what each codes means here) is #74. What the hell is BOO?

As for my brakes....I took the relay out and slapped it around a little (lightly) and it's running good for now. I'll pick up another one tomorrow.

*EDIT* Found out what #74 is: Brake On/Off Circuit Open or Short to Ground. I guess I hit the brake pedal during the testing. Oh well.....