oil filter rubbing

95scred

Registered User
i just changed my oil and i was just curious if it is bad that the paint was worn off the oil filter from rubbing on either the crossmember or somethign else down there?
 
The same thing hapened to my 90. The filter rubs on a bundle of wire (or maybe it's a line for the power steering, I dont remember) that runs across the crossmember, almost under the oil pan. I pulled out the bundle and layed it in front of the oil cooler. Ofcourse I secured it so there was no pinching and no flopping around. Makes an oil change much more simple. JJ
 
Motormounts

The water filled motor mounts have failed on your sc's. Its happened to everyone with a sc and high mileage. SCP sales a new stock height solid rubber motor mount. Check it out and change those things out before they create more proablems
 
you no i was hoping this wasnt it i bought the car back in june it only had a 1000 miles on the new block from ford and rebuilt tranny which were both done under warrenty. is there any chance they would have changed them when they did that work and it could be something else?
 
Unless they put the wrong motor mounts in, which I'm guessing that you mean that Ford did all the work you mentioned. But, either way, I'm guessing that the motor mounts are shot. I had 74k on my 95 and they were absolutely destroyed. Doesn't your car vibrate horribly while running? Mine did. Get those changed fast! When I had mine changed, my filter was just difficult to get off of the last thread, not rubbing.
 
^^^^

Sounds like it's the mounts then. You really shouldn't feel much from the engine if it is running good.

FWIW my 90 has rubbed holes in the filters three times now. Last filter has only taken about three weeks (and 2500miles LOL! ) to start leaking.

I know I'm playing with fire, but you know it's a PITA to do motor mounts on any car let alone an SC.
 
Here is the problem, if you ignore the mounts you WILL need to replace the oil pan and the high pressure line on the power steering. The oil pan is NOT something the average home mechanic wants to do if it can be avoided.


The motor mounts are a tedious job (3-4 hours per side) but they are very doable by a home mechanic. The only hard part is deciding what to remove to get to the mounts, but if you search you will find very detailed descriptions on what to pull to make it an easy job.

Just search on the recent threads about motor mounts. Take the car and get the engine cleaned before you start the job (things go faster on a clean engine). The tools to do the job will cost much less than the labor to have a dealer fix it.

You will need:
Jack Stands - $25
Floor Jack - $50
or
Sears item #00950134000 - on sale $88

Tool Set:
Sears item #00933122000 - on sale $99
or much better but you will need a box

Sears item #00933870000 - $150


A couple of 3/8" and 1/2" extensions - about $15
3/8" and 1/2" swivels - about $15

Wrenching for own car - priceless :D

If you buy from Sears, make sure you read the contents of the kit. If its not a socket, ratchet or a wrench it's useless and pull those item off of the tools count (you certainly don't need 45 allen keys).

Aaron
 
Oh yeah, you have shot mounts! I had the same problem and hopefully you can get yours fixed quicker than I did. I kept putting it off due to work and school and next thing I know I'm buying power steering fluid by the flat! I had the same signs on the oil fliter and well after having them changed I couldn't even tell my car was running at idel, it was pretty amazing, the difference I felt.

Shouldn't cost an arm and a leg and you'll notice a difference from the get go.

-Tim
 
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