Code 214 - I've read the history - need details

mduralia

Registered User
Folks,

I've finally got the dreaded Code 214 - CID problem on my lovely bird. Near as I can tell from reading the history posts, I need to change the Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP signal generator)...right?

Question #2 - Reading the manuals, it says cylinder #1 MUST be at 26 deg AFTER TDC when you change this. Is that necessary if all I do is change the mag pick up and do not pull the entire thing?

Thanks in advance.
 
No you dont have to pull the whole thing. To make it easier I just remove the SC belt and then its just the two small bolts using a nutdriver. Don't over tighten them.

Should take 30 minutes tops.
 
mduralia,
Which manual are you reading? If you read the Helms (Ford) manual, it says that if you are only replacing the camshaft sensor, then you can skip over the part of having the engine at 26 TDC. That's only if you are replacing the "housing" (is what the book called it), which I think is the rotor. So, the answer, like wezar said, is no. I have the haynes manual as well and was comparing the procedures and noticed the BIG difference, so I obviously followed the Helms manual. I did not remove anything when I replaced mine. Just make sure that you only have ONE red colored seal for the electrical connector. I tried installing the sensor with two. Needless to say, it didn't work very well.

Mike
 
Hey mduralia

What is the problem? Is the car not starting right away ? Is it missing at all. How is the car running?


I change the cam sensors on my 89 all the time cause I have extras I do it just to see if there is a difference there isn't. You don't need to worry about having the crank at 26 atdc to just change the cam sensor. As wezar said take off the SC belt and remove the 2 screws and replace the sensor no biggie real simple.

The only time you will use 26 atdc is to set the timing. Which you are not doing because it should be pre set unless someone has tamperd with the vane position before. Your car would run real bad possibly not at all if the if the vane for the cam sensor was off . Good luck.
 
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Mike - hold on a second. Isn't code 214 'cylinder ID problems'? I only changed my cam sensor when the tach started to misbehave. For 214 I found a couple of bad (hairline cracked) plugs, because I'd rushed the install (if that's possible on these cars) and must have leaned the socket against them when torquing up. So if you've recently changed plugs or wires I'd check them first. When I changed the cam sensor I just bought the sensor top which simply goes on with 2 screws - no need to worry about any cam settings.
Jim.
 
Ok guys...let me try this again

Gents,

I can't "feel" anything wrong with the car. The Check Engine light is on and code 214 is the only problem code in the system.

I bought a new CPS today at Autozone and will put in. My Ford Factory Manual points out making sure you're at 26 AFTDC. I gues they "assume" you're pulling the whole assembly not just replacing the sensing element.

I'll give it a shot. I printed out some directions from the "how to" part of the website. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks for the help.
 
No mike it is not necessary to set to 26 when just changing the magnet pick up.

But If the VANE is out of position and lets say is getting to the magnetic pick up too early or too late then yes you will have to position the crank at 26 atdc then position the vane for the came sensor correctly. The cam sensor helps the car start fast. The car will run with a bad cam censor. Let us know if the light goes away or you notice any changes. Do you have a way to reset your codes the CEL may take awhile to go off if you don't reset it.

There is a grove balancer you can line up too make sure it is in the right spot. IT says ATC on it. MY fault I put b instead of a I must be a nimrod.
 
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DONE!

Changed the CPS and all set. CEL is off, car is fine. Thanks for all the help...manuals were a bit confusing on this one.
 
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