Motor & Trans Mounts - Need Opinions Please

mduralia

Registered User
Folks,

Based on the history I've read, look like I need to change my motor and transmission mounts. I've already replaced the IRS bushings in the rear and would rate that job about a 3 on 1-10 scale with 10="too hard, pay someone else".

I done a search and read what others have done to do this...so...

1-10...how does changing the motor mounts rate?

1-10...how does changing the tranny mount and bushings rate?

Are the tranny mounts and bushings from MN12Perf for the 5sp or just the AOD?

Can all this work be done with a floor jack, jack stands and some wood?

Who's willing to help (I live about 10 miles south of Charlotte, NC - Beer and Pizza included!!!!!).

THANKS!!!
 
Alright,

I don't know about 1-10 numbers but both of these are things you can do with the floor jack, jack stands and wood. I would not pay someone to do this. I got my solid rubber mounts from MN12 Performance, I don't remember if I had to specify 5-speed or not, but just tell them and you'll get the right products. Sorry I'm a little too far away to help. :D

Good luck,

Matt
 
I've been told the motor mounts are a pain when doing them with and engine in and attached. Your best luck would be to get a hoist to jack the engine up enough to get the mounts out. The tranny mount is simple, undo nut, drop crossmember, and unbolt from trans. The crossmember mounts suck. I had to use a dremel with a rotozip spiral saw bit to cut out the old rubber ones. The new ones can be hammered right in. The motor mounts will probably take about 2-5hrs depending on your availability of tools and helpers on hand. The tranny mounts can be done in an hour. Hope that helps ya.
 
Before you do this, do a search on motor mounts - read all you can, cause people have tried several ways to do them and you can pick up good ideas from all. I did mine last week. On a scale of 1-10 it rates up there at a 9+++.

It's not that it can't be done by a shadetree mechanic, but it takes some planning. I did mine outside, with only my jack, jack stands, block of wood and good tools. Most time was spent on drivers' side - all day for me. Passenger side took 4 hrs. Also take a look at what other work you need and do it while you have things apart - plugs, wires, etc.

Definetly get solid mounts - the ones in my '93 were changed at 92K in 1997 and they were no good at 112K in '03. Rotted out and all the fluid gone.

Make sure you have a selection of good tools - 1/2" & 3/8" drive sockets - regular and deep - all 6 point. Breaker bars, liquid wrench, a good manual and alot of patience.

Good luck.

Mark
'93 SC
 
If you are willing to disassemble a bunch of stuff the job is only a 6-7. If you don't want to pull stuff apart 9+++.

The cowl, intake tubing and IC tubing needs to be removed. Pull the super charger top instead of the the spanner nut. Also get a set of Wynn's (TBird88) IC gaskets, they are the easiest solution.

All of the belts and let the main belt hang off of the lower coolant hose.

Put the car on the jack stands. Place a 2x4 just long enough to reach across the oil pan under the pan and carefully raise the engine. Watch the bacl of the engine to make sure nothing hits.

The passengers side is done by pulling the AC compressor and tieing it off by the overflow tank. Then pull the entire bracket and remove for cleaning. You will now be able to see the mount assembly. Note the position of the ground straps, make a sketch to remind you how it goes back.

Loosen all of the bolts (three on the engine one through the frame rail). You will need to get creative with a few extensions and swivel joints. For the frame bolt, you will need some muscle - use a breaker bar or a pipe on the handle of a 1/2" ratchet (if you use a 3/8" make sure it has a warrenty).

Once everthing is loose, you can pull the mount out of the front - it may be in two peices. The new one will take a little twisting to go back in but it will go in.

Drivers side: This is the one that takes some time. You need to pull the accessory bracket forward and tie it off near the radiator. Put a peice of cardboard over the condensor to protect it. The alternator has a hidden bolt under the coil pack.

Total time is about six hours inside of a garage using hand tools and a floor jack. Air tools could cut about an hour off.

Aaron
 
I now work for the guy who put my motor mounts in. He said it was an F'n bitch to do. I'll just let you know that I bought my SOLILD rubber mounts at advanced auto parts for around $60 after tax. By far the best deal i found, and there just big pieces of rubber that have a warranty so i don't see how you could go wrong.

dan
 
personally, i didn't think it was that bad of a job. i would take Pastera's advice and work from the top. i didn't go quite as far as him, but i did pull the inner cooler and the tubes which made it much easier. i probably spent 50% of the time working from the top and the other 50% from the bottom. i think my total time was about 6 hours. i did need an extra set of hands installing them though. we had to pry the motor over to get the bolts to line up correctly.
 
bassically what he told me was that it's not a garage project. I believe he did it all from undernieth with the car on a hoist. He said that he removed the crossmember or something like that in the front end and jacked the motor up. He didn't go into great detail, so i may have missunderstood him.

dan
 
Mike - take a look at the new solid motor mounts offered by SuperCoupe Performance. The regular ones (MN12, etc) are about 3/16" higher than stock. That raises the engine a little and can rub against a KB strut tower brace (if you have one) and one of the small vac. pipes on the Supercharger. Also by using these new smaller ones, the install will be a little easier. I've done 2 lots now (my '93 & '94) and much prefer to do the job from under the rear of the engine - much less to remove. If you look back a couple of pages on this forum I wrote about my last experience and some install tips. Took me all day with my son. Worst bit is removing the mount bolts - takes some patience using a swivel and long extension. Would cost a fortune if you take it to a dealer.
Jim.
 
I just installed a set of the new SCP mounts a few weeks ago, nice part and I really like the stock height. The job was very easy because I aready had the heads off, so there wasn't anything in the way.

David
 
Just wanted to add my experience and about pricing. I wimped out and paid 190.00 USD to have a local race shop do it. The reason I went with them is that they were a better business member and they were the only shop in town that would give me a fixed price. After they did them, they said that they should have quoted me more. Heh, heh. But, I think that it was a good deal. I didn't have to cuss at all!
 
Back
Top