Where can I get an oil pump priming tool!!!!!!

metalman

Registered User
I have a '90 SC. I am rebuilding my engine. And those of you who have rebuilt your engine know you need this tool to break it in properly. NO ONE MAKES IT!!!! Where the hell do you get one.
I called Ford, Pep Boys, I looked on this website and couldn't find any info, and called two other auto parts stores in my area. No one has it nor knows where to get one.

This is the turning point in getting my engine back together. HELP ME PLEASE!

Thank you,
Metalman
 
If i recall correctly...

I rigged something up using the old pump hex shaft connected to a long flexable 1/4" extension -

good luck
 
1. Take a hex key that fits the oil pump, and cut the short arm off. 5/16" I think.

2. Use a 1/4 socket that fits the hex key.

3. Cut the rachet end of a cheap 1/4" extension off.

4. Mate the hex key, socket and extension. I used silicone sealer and then covered the joints with thick heat shrink tubing.
 
I had the same problem. I could never find one and the specialty shops thought they might be able to find one for around $30.

I went to Home Depot, Lowes and all the hardware stores looking for hex rod.

Well I ended up going into Harbour Freight with the DIS in hand to match up the size. I found a paint mixer made for a hand drill that had a hex rod shaft. First I knocked the stirrer part off with a hammer and used the grinder to take the pretty red paint off the other end so I did not have to worry about paint getting into the pump some how. I test fit it my old pump and it worked great priming the engine.

Total cost about $4.25 with tax.


Take your DIS with you to match the size up.

I found one on their website. It looks the same.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41015
 
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here is what I do...

You can buy hex rod at most "good" hareware stores. It will come in one to two foot lenghts. Place it in the oil pump and mark off where you will want to cut it so it is not too long. Then put it in your 3/8 or bigger drill and give it a spin till you get pressure. Make sure that you are going in the correct direction or you won't be doing any good. You should feel some slowing down from the pressure of the oil, if not turn your drill the other way and try again... This is a simple way and there is not way it will ever wear out on you....Good luck with your new engine.......Rich
 
Rich. I wish we had a "Good" Hardware store here.

The box stores put em all out of business.
 
Good stores....

I have two good sized "Ace" stores within ten miles of me. They both have a very good "handy man" section in them. You can get all kinds of rods, shafts, and misc. parts in these sections... Heck, they even maake hoses if you are building something. They made all the hoses for the log splitter for the guy down the street . Sometimes it is good to live in the country, many more do it yourselfer, hence better supply of odd stuff... ......Rich
 
Thank you for all your help everbody. I hope to have my engine in next week.

After I blew my first head gasket about a month ago, I decided to get the whole engine machined and rebuilt. So, I got a stage 2 head porting job (port, polish, bowl, deck, etc, etc) Then I took the block to the machine shop and had it decked, touch up hone, new rod & main bearings, rings, and test specs, and gaskets- of course. At home my bro helped me gasket match and port the lower intake and throttle body.

I am glad this happened actually. Now that I have pull the motor from my car, I am finding many things that could have potentially killed it. The motor mounts were disintegrated, which lowered the oil pan into a tranny line, putting a few dents in the pan and thinning out the tranny line. The pan is fine, but I'm gonna replace the tranny line. I found my supercharger nose gasket was shot and leaking SC fluid, and a slew of other fixes.

I am painting my engine mostly gloss and flat black w/ accents of Ford Red on my Valve Covers, DIS senor, a small bracket, knock senor shield and Super Charger snout. I am also painting the IC tube words "3.8 Supercharged" red and the surrounding lines black. It's looking slick so far.

Sorry for the long back story, just wanted to share.

Thanks again,
Metalman
 
Melling manfacture the pump and shaft (shaft cost me less than 4 dollars) has a retainer which worked well on a socket I was told not to use a drilll because you may damage the gears on the oil pump a speed wrench or ratchet will do just fine with very little effort.
 
Thanks Wezar!

My neighbor had a paint mixer. It worked like a charm!!
I just hacked off the mixing end, threw it in a drill and it fit in the oil pump like a glove.
When I started I was turning it the wrong way for a bit..opps
But once I turn it the right way it didn't take to long to prime.

I did a little mishap though. I forgot to put in the oil pressure sending unit. So when I started the drill up a half a quart of oil shot out like a rocket in about 1/2 a second. :rolleyes:

Now I can get with the rest of my motor.

Thanx guys,
Metalman
 
cheaper way

i put mine back together not knowing i needed to prime the oil pump. i called the dealership and the mechanic said to get petroleum jelly (vasoline) and pack the gears full, making sure to fill all the spaces. start it up and it's primed. he said this is the preferred way of doing it, the only difference is that the engine lube is ford name brand, but still the same thing as vasoline.
 
My haynes manual says you can take the plugs out, disable the fuel pump and ignition and crank the engine with the starter until the gauge reads pressure and it's primed. That's what I plan to do this weekend. I also filled the oil pump with petro jelly.
 
35th t-bird sc, not a good idea...

The most important time on a new start up is the very first turns that the engine makes. If there is not enought oil on the bearings, you will do" bad do do " to your engine. Please reread this post and prime your engine. You will thank yourself down the road with a better,longer lasting engine. The best thing to do is to get pressure up, then turn the engine 1/4 turn then bring the presure up again. Do this three more times and you wil be in good shape. There is also a screen that you can buy to put in the oil filter that wil stop small parts. As soon as you get it running you should also change the oil and filter. If you get one of those screens look at it, if not cut that filter open and look inside it to see it there are any metel parts... You can never be too safe on a new start up, so please look and think about what has been posted here...Good luck with your new engine......Rich
 
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