Removing the harmonic balancer and cam sync clamp

Greg

Registered User
Hey Folks,

It’s late, I’m in the middle of tearing down my engine and I am stuck on three things. One is the clamp assembly for the cam sensor/ synchronizer. It’s a bolt that looks like it would take a Torx Bit tool to unscrew, but it has a small rod in the middle of it. I looked all over the Forum for others with the same dilemma, but not luck. I went up to my handy Sears Craftsman store, but no luck. Can anyone tell me where I can get a tool to pull this out?

The second problem is pulling the harmonic balancer. The Ford manual says to use a crankshaft damper remover T58P-6316-D and a vibration damper remover adapter T82L-6316-B, or equivalent. So, where can one get the “equivalent” tool to pull this thing off? AutoZone or a parts store that rents out tools?

My last question is reusing the old harmonic balancer. I had it changed out two years ago and it still looks like it is in good condition. Reading all the comments on the forum about re-use has my head spinning. Any folks out there that reused there balancer have some comments?

Thanks in advance,
Greg
 
T45 tamper proof bolt on the DIS

I think the balancer removal tool is just the basic one you get at Sears for $20.


Installing it you need a installation tool. I bought mine from the SnapOn truck for $35 Bluepoint. I don't have the part number handy.


On the balancer. some are tickling the dragons tail by reusing it. I would not. Buy a BHJ and be done with it. If you reuse it at least install a new bolt.
 
Thanks wezar, I’ll probably go with the BHJ balancer and not worry about being careful pulling the old one off.

As for the T45 tamper proof bolt, when you mean tamper proof, do you mean I have to chisel the little rod out of the middle and then us my Torx set to unscrew it?

Thanks
Greg
 
No. you can buy a torx bit that has the indentation built in (Called Security). I went to Tool Town a local place that sells all kinds of low cost specialty tools. I imagine the Mac or Snapon guys have one too but they would be more $.

Try to find a specialty tool place that sells everything. I got mine for around $3.
 
Greg,

The tamper proof Torks wrenches are avalible at just about any place that sells tools. They are just like the regular ones except the have a hole in the middle.

Before installing the BHJ dampner you will need to measure the crank and some honing may be required on the dampner to obtain the proper fit. I'm sure there will be instructions supplied with the dampner covering that.

The OEM dampner has an aluminum inner sleeve that distorts and conforms to the crankshaft diameter. Once it's installed/removed for the first time, it will not fit as tight because the aluminum doesn't shrink back to the original size.

Always use a new bolt and washer and put RTV sealer on the threads of the bolt and on the washer...the supercoupe bolt is no longer avalible but the late model 3.8 mustang dampner bolt works fine.

David
 
Wezar and David,

Thanks for the response. One question, if I pull the harmonic balance, do I have to pull the Cam Synchro assembly and intermediate shaft in order to pull off the timing chain cover?

Also, I will ask the machine shop to hone the crank for the BHJ damper while he has it plus zero balance the damper and pulley assembly.

Thanks again,
Greg
 
One question, if I pull the harmonic balance, do I have to pull the Cam Synchro assembly and intermediate shaft in order to pull off the timing chain cover?

No..but you will have to pull it before re-installing the timing cover, so it doesn't really matter.

Also, I will ask the machine shop to hone the crank for the BHJ damper while he has it plus zero balance the damper and pulley assembly.

The ID of the dampner is what needs to be honed, but only if the crank is over the allowable range for the as purchased dampner. You won't know that until you measure the crank with something that will read thousands of an inch. The dampner should come instructions that indicate how tight the fit should be. I don't have a BHJ dampner (yet) so I don't know what fit they reccomend. I would imagine .002 interference (smaller than crank dia.) but I don't really know.

You will only want to zero balance the pulley, the dampner is already zero balanced and if you balance them as a set and weight is added or subtracted from the dampner, you will have problems using underdrives or stock size zero balance pulleys in the future.

David
 
Last edited:
David,

To make sure I understand the zero balance thing, are you saying not to add or subtract weight from the damper? I notice when I pulled my pulley off my current damper, that the weld on the weights basically were rusted almost through. I pushed on them with my thumb and they came off, hence why I know I need to rebalance the pulley. But going with a new damper, I thought one would have to balance the damper and the pulley as a set? I will ask for the weight to be added to the pulley to compensate.

As for why I am taking the timing cover off, well at 180,000 plus miles and a rod bearing started to knock. Emotionally can’t part with the car so I pulled the engine last week and I’m rebuilding it. She’s a daily driver, and fun to drive. I rebuilt the suspension, last winter, wow what a difference. Outside of that, she needs a paint job. Know any good shops around the Ballwin area?

Thanks for the help and input.

Greg
 
Greg,

Yes balance the pulley seperate from the dampner, then have the entire rotating assembly balanced with the pulley and dampner. If you using the BHJ dampner, just make sure the shop doesn't mess with the dampner to adjust the weight.

David
 
David,

Thanks for the wisdom. I plan on taking my block, crank and pistons in this week. I’ll talk to the shop and have them do as you have outlined.

Thanks again,
Greg
 
Greg,

No problem, when you get it back together bring it over to Stegimeier's in St. Charles and let Brian (Apten Performance) tune it for you.

David
 
David,

It’s on my list of must do’s. After putting all this work into the rebuild, I don’t want to just put it out on the street and pray it all works. I figure I’ll get it over to Brian to go through it and set up a new program for me. I also plan to take my heads to Stegimeier this week if I can find the time. Looking to get the 5 angle valve job along with ported, polished and bowl work. I’m not sure about the rocker arms and lifters yet plus I wanted to talk to Stegimeier and get his opinion on this. I also wanted to get his opinion on customizing the cam with my heads. It’s a daily driver so I don’t want to over build the heads, and I want them to work for with my stock injectors, MAF and TB, but handle these upgrades later.

Thanks again for all your support,
Greg
 
Back
Top