AC delete

Hellraizer547

Registered User
Can somebody right down a list on what i need and directions for an AC delete. I don't use the AC anyways and it would make a hell of a difference on changing those stupid spark plugs. Check out some of the pictures from the SC/XR7 shootout on the website http://www.supercoupeperformance.com/
Check out Gary's setup on the AC delete, not to mention that is the best looking/driving SC that i have seen.

Thanks
 
Hellraizer547

All you need is a belt, but the size will vary depending on your pulleys. XR7 dave runs the belt w/o a tensioner at all. Randy Baker runs his around the tensioner, both are good setups.
I think Randy's belt is ko80525(gates) which is 531/8 " long.

The 8 stands for 8 rib
the 525 is approximate length 52.5"

You could start with that belt and just return it until you find the best length.
NAPA has a good book for all the gates belts available.

XR7Dave will post his belt size soon.

Gary
 
You can kinda see how my belt is ran.I have March UD pulleys
so I can't tell you the belt size. That you would need.

Make a straight line mark on your stock belt. Then You wrap the stock belt
around the pulleys,pull tight and then make another mark that lines up with the first mark.
Then measure the length between the two marks.This is the size you need.Mine cost $29.00
to delete the A/C.


RANDY
 

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Kool, That helps alot. Can I take everything off that is connected to the AC? Like the tank and all that too? Since my AC has a leak anyways and went through a charge within 2 months, i'm just taking that sucker out to help my car on the quest to a 16 second 1/4 mile:)
Oops, sorry Randy for mistaking your car:) Sweet ride, i wish i had the money to do all the mods.

Sergio
 
Hellraizer547 Yes you can just disconnect the lines and remove it all
the way to the fire wall connectors.I would remove the condinser in
front of the radiator to.this will help the car run a lot cooler to.The
condinser blocks a lot of air to the radiator.

AND here is a picture of Gary's SC motor and how his belt is run.He
dosen't have a water pump so it is a little differrent.His car looks a
lot better than mine.

To get the belt on like my set up is.You will need to grind or file some aluminum
of the bracket holding the alternator.Take the top bolt out of the alternator.push
the alternator over toward the center of the motor.(you may need to remove some
aluminum to do this on the bracket or the alternator.)Put the belt on.pry the alternator over
untill you can get the top alternator bolt screwed back in.You can slot the hole in the
alternator top bolt hole .for adjustment.
Good luck
RANDY
 

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Randy,

Have you have any problems with cooling? It looks like the water pump doesn't have a lot of contact with the belt. How long have you been runnning this? Seems like belt stretching could cause a prob. Also, do you think there is a way you can flip the spring on the idler pulley so the tension goes the other way?

Superloop,

I think he has a electric drive for his waterpump.
 
Aaron: My motor runs to cool.Since I removed the A/C condinser

I have a little less that 5000 miles on it. It dosen't slip any.
The bracket holding the alternator has been sloted a little,
for small adjustments.

I have been wanting to take the tensioner appart and see
if I could get it to reverse,but havent had the time.I would
be able to use the belt for years then.So far it hasen't stretch
any.

My under drive water pump pulley is a larger diameter than
the stock pulley,so this give me more surface for the belt to
ride on.And I gained more surface on the water pump pulley
by running the belt over the tensioner pulley.If you just run
the belt straight up from the crank to the alternator,then
there is not enough surface for the belt to rid on.Then it will
slip.Gary's belt is routed like this.

I didn't have the money to fix the A/C just about every peice
of it was junk .So I did this delete.It was Gary Kuhns idea.
It makes it a lot easyer to work on.if you machine some off the
A/C bracket down.Now I can see or get to every sparkplug on
the passenger side of the motor.

RANDY
 
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I am looking at doing this now is why I ask the questions. I too have UD pullies and a dead AC. I am just about to buy a new belt because I need to. My radiator blew up on me and they have squeaked ever since, no matter how much dressing I put on them. What is the length of your belt since I have the same underdrive pulley setup?
 
my son has ben running this set up for about two or three months. it seems to work fine, i still think that the tensioner will fail, so we will do the electric water pump thing this winter. i think the belt length with stock pullys is 55 inches. it is hard to remember.i do remember nobody had it in stock.
 
Tensioner pulley

Randy,

Your tensioner pulley looks like it's running under the belt. Did you have to reverse the spring on it? If so, how do you do that?
 
Slysc : I answered your ? to Aaron above in a post.

I will machine any ones jackshaft bracket for $75.00
add $65.00 for polished.

RANDY
 
reversing tensioner spring

I figured out how to reverse the spring on the tensioner.

I've got the 53.?" belt on it and it's running great.

If you want to reverse the spring on the tensioner, take off the tensioner, grind off the pins in the back so it's all flat, then put it in a vise so that the vise holds the back half. If you look closely at the front of the tensioner, there is a steel plate with a notch that sticks out and prevents it from turning further than it's resting position. Take a die grinder with a cutoff wheel and carefully grind off that notch so that it's flush with the rest of the steel plate. When you grind that off the tension that it's under will go "boing" to the spring's resting position. Then just install the thing so that it's pointing at about 7 or 8 o-clock and tighten it down, Then use the wrench to pull the pulley down and put the belt over top of it and let it spring back up.

If you don't "get it", I could post a picture.
 
pic

Here's a picture of how my belt is routed. It's the same as Randy's

scengine112603.jpg


acdelete.jpg
 
...

you could just buy a ford 5.8 ford deisel a/c delete bracket, and modify 1 hole so it fits, i bought one on here from someone. Probably easiest way to go and cleanest... Alex Lachance
 
SuperCoupeSC91 : Ford has a A/C delete for the 3.8 v-6.But why remove the A/C and replace with a FORD
A/C delete pulley ,and still have a pulley in the way.you just as well leave the A/C pulley on.

The hole point to this mod is to clean the motor up so it would be easier to work on.And save
some money by buying a $29.00 belt .Instead of the $40.00 delete pulley.And be able to see
the spark plugs on the passenger side to make them easier to change.And to get rid of some
wieght to go faster or save gas,or both.That pulley on the A/C and the A/C delete pulley may
use 5 to 10 HP to turn.

Slysc: Thanks for the idea and pictures,This will make this A/C delete mod complete ,For everybody
to do,and save a lot of money,for the ones that can't fix there A/C,and the ones that are looking
for better gas milage,and a couple more horses,and the DIY guys on the sparkplugs.

Just like iceing on the cake.Good idea.

RANDY
 
Here's another idea guys. I didn't like the idea of grinding off both pins on the back of the tensioner and cutting the tab off so the tensioner would tension the other way. I decided to look on my LX to see what kind of tensioner it had. Sure enough it had a tensioner that tensions to the left instead of the right. As most of you know the LX's have a six-rib belt, and the tensioner actually has a ribbed idler, instead of a smooth one, but more on that later. I ground off the smaller of the two pins on the back of LX tensioner. Then I slightly enlarged the bottom hole on the P.S. bracket so the pin would fit into it. This way the tensioner sits at about the 7 o'clock position. I wanted to use the idler off the SC, but it wouldn't work on the LX tensioner, so I left the ribbed idler on the tensioner and bought a 6 rib/55 inch belt. My car is sort of torn down at the moment, so there is no telling how well this method works, but I guess I'll find out. It is basically the same method Randy and Sly are using except for the LX tensioner and a 6-rib belt. I'm hoping I don't have any problems with the 6-rib. I noticed XR7Dave has a 6-rib and apparently it's working for him. Another note, I'm using ASP underdrives.
 
i plan on doing this also. Any help appreciated, and pictures of how to mod the tensioner would help.
 
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