Code 14..PIP Sensor?

notsofine89

Registered User
I'm getting a Code 14, which the tester manual decribes as a "Ignition Profile Pickup" (PIP) signal erratic. Is this the crankshaft sensor or the camshaft sensor? If you start the car cold, it will run fine for 5-6 minutes, then sputter, die, and refuse to start till it cools off. System passes KOEO with code 11, issues the separator, and gives code 14 from when it died.

Thanks!

-M
 
Cam sensor = CID, Crank Sensor= PIP. Might want to check your crankshaft pulley for wobble which would indicate a broken Harmonic damper and could contribute to an erratic PIP.
 
Dampener is a BHJ, installed 300 miles ago...

Just went through the balancer/sensor nightmare about 300 miles ago. It had been in the shop 3 or four times before, when I contacted this message board and asked why the crank bolt kept breaking. Was told by many to replace balancer, after which I called Serramonte Ford in Colma and <I>actuallly exlpained to them</I> how to fix the thing. I provided them with a BHJ balancer I'd gotten straight from the factory in Fremont, CA. Crank sensor failure makes sense...when it dies, it bucks and heaves in the same manner it did when the crank bolt broke....Only this time it will start after it cools down. Funny thing is that this part was replaced the 1st time (500 mi ago) that the car went to Serramonte.<BR><BR>What was most amazing....a 2nd Ford dealer just told me "It's a bad ECC". $50 later, the ecc is sent to SIA, who called me to tell me they couldn't find anything wrong with it. From what I can see, the idiots at Big Valley Ford in Stockton didn't even pull codes from it... <BR><BR>Are all dealership mechanics this bad? Or just Ford? If this thing gets pitched, I have serious reservations about buying another Ford Product.
 
There of course are some bad dealerships scattered around and some not so caring mechanics as well. But by far the most problematic thing I've seen in my area is NO mechanic wants to work on this car!
I've been to 5 different dealerships in my area and I have had mechanics at all of them tell me they will not work on one.
The thing that really shocked me was they said they would quit there jobs if told to work on one and I do beleive they meant it.
So my take is youre not getting the shops cream of the crop working on your SC most of the time and that would explain some of the not so good work that people get.
Mechanics at a dealership do not get paid in the way that you might think.
Say the magic book that the dealers use to time jobs says it takes
1 hour to replace your crank sensor and HB but it takes the mechanic 2 hours to do the job correctly that mechanic only gets paid for 1 hour.
Doesnt that type of pay system possably explain alot?
Nobody wants to work for free or take jobs you know your gonna lose money on before you even start.
I certainly dont see much incentive there to do a good job or to even take the job myself.
 
When you have or do the crank sensor replacement ensure you have the sensor installed such that you maintain the required 030" clearance between the sensor vanes and each side of ther sensor body itself. Also I would recommend that the sensor be changed without removing the balancer itself.
 
Folow up after problem was solved

Strike three for the Ford Dealers....

Crank sensor was not only spaced wrong, but rubbing on the balancer. Car ran fine once crank sensor was replaced and spaced properly. Amazing....one ford dealer installs it wrong, the other one does a "diagnosis", looks straight at it, and tells me the balancer/sensor setup is fine and blames it all on the ECC-IV!!

Moral of the Story:

<H2><FONT COLOR='BLUE'><DIV ALIGN='CENTER'>AVOID FORD DEALERS LIKE THE PLAUGE<BR>WHEN YOU NEED YOUR SC WORKED ON</DIV></FONT></H2>

I gotta say, if I look into another new car, I think I'm gonna give Mr. Goodwrench a shot...
 
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