Porting Supercharger at home

metalman

Registered User
With the help of my brother ('88 t-bird omniscient) we are porting alot of aluminum at home-Throttle body, plenum, lower intake-
Now we want to port the supercharger.

How do I remove the impellers safely and correctly and the rod in the front snout (to replace bearings)? I have already unbolted the snout from the body.

BTW, I am also painting the snout red and the body gloss black.

Thanks for your help,
Metalman
 
Uhhh.....Stephen you say you have ported about 20 of them?
Yet in your other post you said that you put one on your car that you bought from someone that had been proffessionaly ported by a porter?.............What am I missing here?:confused:
 
ROFL!!!!!! Well thats along the lines I was thinking but I though I'd give him a chance to clear that up.
Cracks me up Randy....people buy Dremels and grind an opening bigger and all the sudden there porters! LOL!!!!.....if only it was that simple.:rolleyes:
 
Wynn (tbird88), myself and a few others discussed porting of the M90 a while back but I can't find the thread. Wynn got happy with the die grinder (looked good) but didn't post any results.

The biggest problem is the inlet on the early models. It is too small and does not extend high enough into the rotor path.

You must remember to keep the rotors "closed" between the inlet and outlet - that means the trailing lobe must seal off the inlet plenum before the leading lobe opens to the outlet (120 degrees of rotation). The rotors are helixed so the openings are triangular in shape.

The outlet can be opened up some, but you really need to enlarge the opening on the inlet to see real gains. The problem is this requires some welding to be done right.

Aaron
 
So I don't have to nessecerily take out the rotors? I just want to make sure I don't get any metal filings in the casing.
BTW-I have a Gen1 blower, '90 SC.
 
I just use a very thin putty knife and some gentle hammering to work the knife between the rotor pack and case seam. Once you get a small gap, you can work them apart with a screwdriver.

Not textbook, but I've done 4 blowers (5?) this way and not had a problem. Just go easy so you don't gouge the mating surface up. And reseal with locktite or permatex.

I opened the blower outlet up on a 89-93 all the way to the end of the case. Didn't seem to add much power, but sure got louder (in a cool way). YOu can get gains by opening the inlet and outlet up proportionally, but since you can't open up the inlet that much...............that means you don't have to open up the outlet much.

Just round off the sharp edges and pay attention to the way air enters and exits.

Definitely remove the rotors though and cover the bearings with masking tape.

Micah
 
I am working on one right now. The blower is finished but the inlet is not. You WILL have to remove the rotors. If you are afraid, then don’t even bother. You can’t get to the areas needed without taking the blower apart.

Most people I have seen have done next to nothing. You need real tools, sanding rolls, flapper wheels, Metal cutting bits for the rough cutting.

Jeff
 

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Ya, Wynn returned the pic with a big HI! in the lower left. It was a pic of the ported on itself. He said it looked like the nose of a Neon.

Jeff
 
After looking at the pic.....why was so much metal added in if it wasn't ported much further up. Looks like similar distance from the top flange to the bearings. Hmmm.

Micah
 
So after that porting...the only thing needed was a late style stock inlet plenum to work with the blower in this pic?
 

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this def. looks clean and it must have proved some hp gains...
 

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What would happen if I would remove all the metal from the outlet to make it one big openning into the top?

Shane
 
It would no longer pump air. At some point, the inlet / outlet would both be open and the seal created by the rotors would be lost. Duh.

= negative 100HP

Micah
 
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